Newhondabuyer

I just purchased a 1998 Honda Accord. I bought it pretty cheap because the car had not passed smog due to the "check engine" light being on. The previous owner told me it was the ECU. So I took it to a few places, one place even changed out the sensors. The light still stayed on. The final conclusion that everyone came to was that the ECU needed to be changed out. I purchased an ECU from a junkyard. I can still return it and it has a warranty also. The few mechanics I spoke to in regards to this car said they would be willing to put it in the car but the Honda Dealership would have to program the computer. Honda said that I need to purchase a brand new ECU. Can anyone help me? First of all, any suggestions of where or how I can program the computer? Please help!!!

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Well:

1) Did you ever have the CEL actually checked to see what the issue was? It's OBDII and should be a little bit descriptive as to what's the issue. Throwing random parts/sensors at it won't solve anything.

2) Your car has an immobilizer and the ECU would need to be reprogrammed I would imagine Honda can reflash the one you have from the junkyard. You'll need someone with a CG chassis to step in and put more info

i drive a honda

you don't need to "re" program the ecu, its an eprom, only erasible with black light. then reloaded which you don't need to do at all.

pull the code, why were you randomly replacing sensors, buying new ecu's from honda and programing eprom's without pulling the code? are you a **** damn idiot?

dude you prboably spent a good $2000 on **** you didnt even need. it failed becuase of a CEL? just pull the cel, find what it was, see if its a false report or if its a real problem, replace the compnent that needs to be replaced (cel tells you this, first chck to see if is bad)

something tells me you aren't equpped mentally to fix such a small issue with these cars ultimetley forcing you to label the entire brand as a **** ar manufacter.

you obviously can't hand simple concepts, sell it to someone who can.

Cannon Man

Whoa, ease back a little. Everyones a noob at one time or another.

To the OP. Any obd II scanner should pull the code, and should come with a book giving a brief description of the error. Then its as simple as doing a google search for a resolution.
It seems that the CG's suffer a lot when the o2 sensors get faulty, Id replace those first for cheap insurance. GL

Newhondabuyer

First of all, whoa people! I just wanted some help. And I'm a dudette, not a dude.

I did take it to 2 mechanics, they both read an error saying the sensors were out, I got them replaced, still have the light on. When I was buying it though, the previous owner told me the ECU needed to be replaced. After those incidents, I'm assuming it must be the ECU. I've had the car for 3 weeks now. Now, while I'm driving, it sometimes just turns off and I have to turn it on again.

Should I take it to a mechanic again, or should I just sell it? I got a great deal on it but don't want to spend thousands on the car and the problem won't get fixed.

HELP!

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Advanced Auto Parts

Have them scan it and tell you what the issue is. My guess is the mechanics replaced the sensors with non-oem ones. Which can cause issues. I believe it's Bosch sensors that can cause issues (like the O2)

Find out for certain what the codes are then replace those items with the Honda OEM part.

And order the part from hondaautomotiveparts.com and save yourself money.

redbull-1

The immobilizer system logic is inside the ECM/PCM, so programming the keys is usually done by the dealership. The following link will explain it more to you:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x97-058e.pdf

What area and state are you in? Cali? (I am also asking due to the smog and reselling.)

Try to get the DTC (diagnostic trouble code) and post it on this forum. Is there an Autozone near you? Many will do it free, or loan you the scanner. Get the codes, then use the scanner to erase the code and see if they come back.

The car shutting off may have to with something other than the ECM, such as the igniter. Get the codes first before having the ECM replaced.

Newhondabuyer

Okay, will do. I am in Cali, the bay area.

Newhondabuyer

The mechanic told me the code was: Heater Oxygen Sensor-bank 1

Newhondabuyer

So he replaced it with an oxygen sensor. He told me to drive it for about 20 miles and the "check engine" light would go away but instead, the hand brake light also turned on.

redbull-1

Usually the seller is responsible for getting it smog in Cali., so you could have try to get the seller to smog it first. -- Now whether you keep or sell it, you may be responsible to get it fixed and smog anyways; unless you get the buyer to buy without.

A Denso brand O2 sensor would have been best.

See if these guys in Berkeley can help you out if it turns out to be something more than the O2 sensor, they are an independent shop that has Honda equipment:

http://www.artsautomotive.com/

redbull-1

The brake light is something else. It can be the float sticking in the master brake cylinder reservoir:

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x03-078e.pdf

redbull-1

If after the other stuff are fixed and it still turns out the ECM is bad, see if artsautomotive can program the immobilizer for your keys. Send them an email or call them.

FunnyVictor86

my 98 would not pass smog because of the ecu, well actually the ignition module rather ... atleast that is what i was told ... it wouldn't hold the cycles or something that is needed when smogging the car ... call up your local dealer ... ask them to run your cars vin number to see if there are any recalls that haven't been done yet ... for example this case would be the "ignition module"

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Kinda figured it'd be an O2.

Try to find the brand, Denso is the Honda brand of choice and other units can be squirrelly. The brake light could just be fluid....

redbull-1

The stalling problem may be the ignition switch.

http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/tsb/accord/x02-031e.pdf

Newhondabuyer

Okay, so my brother reset the computer, now the car won't turn on. What now?

Newhondabuyer

Forget previous post, he lied. But resetting did nothing

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

No one told you to reset the ECU???

1) Pull the exact codes off the car.

2) Fix problems with Honda OEM stuff (Denso if it's O2 sensor)

3) See if CEL still exists

Ronin1

If the mechanics who have been working on your car are not really familiar with Hondas try to find someone who is. There are usually some independent shops that work on Hondas and Accuras in most large metro areas. Find your car a new "home".

The brake light can also be a low fluid warning. Check the fluid level in the master brake cylinder reservoir and see where the float is. (You can see through the plastic so there should be no need to take anything apart.) If it is low you can add fluid until you get just below the "full" mark. Use only Honda or Honda specification brake fluid. Using the wrong one can cause problems down the line. If this is the case, check the fluid level afterwards on a regular and frequent basis to make sure that it is not going somewhere due to a leak. It could be that the brake fluid was never topped off as the level went down as the brake pads wore. If this is the case, the brake pads should be checked when the car is serviced (not a bad idea anyway) to make sure that they are not so worn that they are about to get into the brake rotors which would cause additional expense. Please note that there is normally a warning strip that makes a screeching noise to warn you when the brake pads get to the point that they need replacement, but on a car with an unknown maintenance history it is better to check (normally, it is possible to look at the pads through the spokes in the wheel or to just remove the wheel and inspect them. It is no big deal.

I have not checked the price of the ECU for a '98, but the one I had replaced on my '99 was rather $$$, so make sure that the codes are appropriate for whatever the shop recommends.

AutoZone is not really a good place to get advice on what to replace. Their equipment really is not the right stuff and will frequently recommend replacing all manner of things that may not really need replacing.

Unless the ECU is cleared of the code, the Check Engine Light will remain on and it will show that code indefinitely so get the shop to read the code, clear it and then drive it a little bit to see if it comes back. (Even if changing the O2 sensor solved the actual problem, the code would remain until cleared.)

orulz

Hi,

New here. Sorry to bring a thread back from the dead but my situation matches the original post exactly.

I have a 1998 Accord LX 4cyl. CE light is on, so it won't pass emissions check. Brought it to a generally trustworthy mechanic who I have been using for years. They read the code, told me it was the O2 sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Replaced it with Non-OEM part. The CE light stayed on. They told me the ECU was bad and sent me to the dealer.

At the dealer, they put in two new O2 sensors, both OEM parts, and the code is still the same. They agree the ECU is bad and estimated $1400 for the fix.

I am wondering exactly the same thing that the OP is asking, but I don't really see an answer in the thread. Can you take an ECU from a junkyard and make it work in a different vehicle? Does the immobilizer or ECU need to be reprogrammed? Are there tools I can buy to do this myself, are there independent mechanics who can do this, or does only the dealer have the equipment?

I note that you all really wanted to know the OBD2 codes to make sure the poster wasn't getting taken for a ride, but unfortunately I don't know what they are and would rather not drive the car anywhere to have the exact codes read as a ticket for getting caught with expired registration and inspection is quite expensive.

If you can't help without knowing the codes that's fine, but if there is any advice you can give me I would appreciate it.

holmesnmanny

If your car is a 4 cylinder you don't have an immobilizer.

It's possible the ecu is bad, you can take it out and open it up and look for burned spots. If no burned spots it's less likely it's bad. You should test for continuity from the oxygen sensor connector to the corresponding ecu connectors. Also look at the oxygen sensor connector itself. It could have corrosion or grease.

http://www.ek9.org/index.php?threads...bd2a-obd1.201/

$1400 is a horrible price.

CONTROL UNIT (CABIN) for 1998 Honda ACCORD SEDAN

You can get it for $800 from any online Honda dealer and install it yourself. They are charging you more than even their list price. It's not even an hour to remove and install the new one.