Davesmit

I just replaced the outer tie rod boot on the driver's side of my 91 accord...but I still need to torque the outer tie rod's castle nut. I've read that the car should have the wheels on and be sitting on the ground when performing this task of torqueing the outer tie rod? Is this true? I just don't see why this should be the case; am I missing something? Besides, when the car is on the ground (on wheels) makes it quite difficult to get to the tie rod castle nut: I'd rather just torque the thing when the car is on jack stands and with the wheel off.

How to most of you torque it? And, by the way, does 35 ft-lbs sound right for this outer tie rod castle nut?


Dave

MAD_MIKE

Only reason I could think of, is the angle change may rotate the tierod threads a bit from a change in suspension height. Kinda like a phantom roll/bump steer.
If it makes you feel better, put a jack under the LBJ stud and raise the suspension to normal ride height, or close to it so it's not in droop, verify your length, and then tighten the lock nut.
It's a locknut, no need to get too specific, tighten it til its tight, don't need to murder it, two open end wrenches and snug it down good. Might want to use adjustables, tierods are not always machined to an exact size for the wrench flats.
IIRC its a variable of 26-35lbft, I usually just crank it to ~32lbft, its a variable so one can align the cotter pin with the hole in the stud.