96 Accord LX w/F22B1 swap CEL P1457
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96 Accord LX w/F22B1 swap CEL P1457
I have a 1996 Honda Accord LX sedan, 5 speed manual, with F22B1 engine swap from a 1996 Honda Accord EX coupe, automatic that has a recurring CEL P1457 "Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (Control Canister System)". The ECU I'm using is 37820-P0H-L01.
The story:
I bought the Accord in December of 2014 for $300, it wasn't running due to a broken timing belt. Shortly after I purchased the car, my sister was in an accident in her Accord which deployed the airbags, so that is where I got the F22B1 engine. I completed the engine swap in March of 2015 and ran it on the F22B2 ECU for nearly a year since the ECU from the donor car was for an automatic. I got around to buying the right ECU so that I could use VTEC and take the engine higher than 4500-5000 rpm. After putting in the right ECU I got a check engine light that was something about not having 5 volts across the fuel tank pressure sensor. When I looked into it I found out the evaporative emission control system is different between my car and the donor car. The donor car was still around so I took the EVAP canister and other evap system solenoids and sensors from the same corner of the engine bay. I installed the system hardware in my car.
Then based on the information I was able to find online (some of it here on honda-tech) here is how I have the wires connected to the ECU (these are only the ones I added to the ECU connector, i.e. the purge control solenoid valve used the existing red/yellow and yellow/black wire):
After putting in the EVAP equipment from the donor car I no longer got the fuel tank pressure sensor error and started getting the P1457 error. The P1457 wasn't a big problem for me before because it would only come on every few weeks or months and I can pass emissions testing with one system reading incomplete or not ready. However, since I have moved and the weather has started to warm up a little compared to November and December, the check engine light comes on frequently and has become a nuisance. Apparently my new commute is ideal for completing the EVAP system check cycle. The check engine light has come on 11 times so far this year, 4 times during the last work week.
I suspect the problem is with how I wired the system, but it could be an actual leak, problem with one of the system components, or maybe even hoses that aren't connected correctly. I have applied power to all the solenoid valves and they all click when I do that.
Would someone check if I have connected wires to the right places?
Thank you,
-rcpaul
The story:
I bought the Accord in December of 2014 for $300, it wasn't running due to a broken timing belt. Shortly after I purchased the car, my sister was in an accident in her Accord which deployed the airbags, so that is where I got the F22B1 engine. I completed the engine swap in March of 2015 and ran it on the F22B2 ECU for nearly a year since the ECU from the donor car was for an automatic. I got around to buying the right ECU so that I could use VTEC and take the engine higher than 4500-5000 rpm. After putting in the right ECU I got a check engine light that was something about not having 5 volts across the fuel tank pressure sensor. When I looked into it I found out the evaporative emission control system is different between my car and the donor car. The donor car was still around so I took the EVAP canister and other evap system solenoids and sensors from the same corner of the engine bay. I installed the system hardware in my car.
Then based on the information I was able to find online (some of it here on honda-tech) here is how I have the wires connected to the ECU (these are only the ones I added to the ECU connector, i.e. the purge control solenoid valve used the existing red/yellow and yellow/black wire):
- EVAP bypass solenoid valve:
- green / white stripe to A28
- black / yellow stripe to a black / yellow wire in the engine bay for the EGR system
- EVAP control canister vent shut valve:
- orange / green stripe to A29
- black / yellow stripe to a black / yellow wire in the engine bay for the EGR system
- Fuel Tank Pressure Sensor:
- yellow / blue stripe to D10
- green / blue stripe to D11
- green / red stripe to D15
After putting in the EVAP equipment from the donor car I no longer got the fuel tank pressure sensor error and started getting the P1457 error. The P1457 wasn't a big problem for me before because it would only come on every few weeks or months and I can pass emissions testing with one system reading incomplete or not ready. However, since I have moved and the weather has started to warm up a little compared to November and December, the check engine light comes on frequently and has become a nuisance. Apparently my new commute is ideal for completing the EVAP system check cycle. The check engine light has come on 11 times so far this year, 4 times during the last work week.
I suspect the problem is with how I wired the system, but it could be an actual leak, problem with one of the system components, or maybe even hoses that aren't connected correctly. I have applied power to all the solenoid valves and they all click when I do that.
Would someone check if I have connected wires to the right places?
Thank you,
-rcpaul
Last edited by rcpaul; 02-04-2018 at 07:36 AM. Reason: correction to a wire color
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Re: 96 Accord LX w/F22B1 swap CEL P1457
Update:
This weekend I decided to go ahead and try a one day subscription to Service Express on https://techinfo.honda.com to get more info for troubleshooting this problem.
I used the Engine/Powertrain Control Module Terminal Arrangement section (pages 11-39 through 11-42) to verify that the connections I made were to the correct ECM terminals.
I used the P1456/P1457 troubleshooting flowchart (pages 11-147 through 11-151) to check the electrical aspects of the system since I don't have a vacuum pump/gauge. All electrical aspects checked out, no opens or shorts were found.
I discovered that the two evaporative emission control systems have the EVAP Two Way Valve in different locations. My car would have had the system with the valve above the fuel tank and the system I added has the valve in the engine bay. So I think I currently have 2 EVAP Two Way Valves on my car, the one originally on the car above the fuel tank and the one that would have been adding with the other EVAP equipment in the engine bay. The operating pressures seem close enough that it might not impede regular operation. Once a pressure/vacuum condition that opens the valve is met the first valve should open and then shortly after the second valve should open too. However, the added EVAP Two Way Valve has the EVAP bypass solenoid valve so the presence of the original EVAP Two Way Valve above the fuel tank may be negating the operation of the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. If the EVAP bypass solenoid valve activates it would bypass the EVAP two way valve in the engine bay but it can't bypass the other valve above the fuel tank.
Does anyone think removing the EVAP Two Way Valve above the fuel tank (and connecting the inlet and outlet) has a reasonable chance of fixing the P1457 code? If so is it a reasonable enough chance to be worth dropping the fuel tank to get to it?
-rcpaul
This weekend I decided to go ahead and try a one day subscription to Service Express on https://techinfo.honda.com to get more info for troubleshooting this problem.
I used the Engine/Powertrain Control Module Terminal Arrangement section (pages 11-39 through 11-42) to verify that the connections I made were to the correct ECM terminals.
I used the P1456/P1457 troubleshooting flowchart (pages 11-147 through 11-151) to check the electrical aspects of the system since I don't have a vacuum pump/gauge. All electrical aspects checked out, no opens or shorts were found.
I discovered that the two evaporative emission control systems have the EVAP Two Way Valve in different locations. My car would have had the system with the valve above the fuel tank and the system I added has the valve in the engine bay. So I think I currently have 2 EVAP Two Way Valves on my car, the one originally on the car above the fuel tank and the one that would have been adding with the other EVAP equipment in the engine bay. The operating pressures seem close enough that it might not impede regular operation. Once a pressure/vacuum condition that opens the valve is met the first valve should open and then shortly after the second valve should open too. However, the added EVAP Two Way Valve has the EVAP bypass solenoid valve so the presence of the original EVAP Two Way Valve above the fuel tank may be negating the operation of the EVAP bypass solenoid valve. If the EVAP bypass solenoid valve activates it would bypass the EVAP two way valve in the engine bay but it can't bypass the other valve above the fuel tank.
Does anyone think removing the EVAP Two Way Valve above the fuel tank (and connecting the inlet and outlet) has a reasonable chance of fixing the P1457 code? If so is it a reasonable enough chance to be worth dropping the fuel tank to get to it?
-rcpaul
#3
Re: 96 Accord LX w/F22B1 swap CEL P1457
I've never heard of anyone having to use the b1 emissions equipment in order to avoid throwing a code
You would be best served looking over the emissions from both cars and seeing if there's a difference. If not, then you should just be able to use what was existing.
www.hondapartscheap.com
You would be best served looking over the emissions from both cars and seeing if there's a difference. If not, then you should just be able to use what was existing.
www.hondapartscheap.com
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Re: 96 Accord LX w/F22B1 swap CEL P1457
I've never heard of anyone having to use the b1 emissions equipment in order to avoid throwing a code
You would be best served looking over the emissions from both cars and seeing if there's a difference. If not, then you should just be able to use what was existing.
You would be best served looking over the emissions from both cars and seeing if there's a difference. If not, then you should just be able to use what was existing.
96 and 97 Accords have two different evap emissions systems. The sedan KA (EX), KL (DX, LX with ABS, EX), KC (EXR), and coupe models have a system that includes an evap two way valve with an evap bypass solenoid valve, fuel tank pressure sensor, evap canister, evap control canister vent shut valve, evap three way valve, and evap purge control solenoid valve. The other system for sedan KA (DX, LX), KL (LX without ABS), KC (LX, EX), and wagon models only has an evap two way valve without an evap bypass solenoid valve, evap canister, evap purge flow switch, and evap purge control solenoid valve.
So, one system has four components that the other system does not have: evap bypass solenoid valve, fuel tank pressure sensor, evap control canister vent shut valve, and evap three way valve.
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