Sound like a MFR problem?
05-06-2007, 07:08 PM
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Location: Tulsa, OK, USA
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Sound like a MFR problem?
I've got a '94 Accord. I'm either having a fuel pump problem or the MFR. The pump doesn't come on all the time when I turn the key to ON II. I've not consistently been listening for the pump but this problem happened on the first hot day of the year here in March, and this week has been very warm and it has happened three times this week.
I'd read that when you turn the key to this position, you're supposed to hear a click, then the check engine light is on for two seconds. Then when the light goes off, you're supposed to hear another click from the relay. Then a third click when you start, but you can't really hear it due to the starter. Today I cranked a lot and had no combustion, although I have compression and fire, so it must be fuel. Sometimes it would sputter to about 200 RPM but die.
It was pretty hot today and I had read this is also a problem. It was probably 88 degrees outside, and warmer inside. But tonight we had rain and and cold front so it was about 75 degrees inside my car. After all the stuff I did today, it finally started up. I drove it around my apartment complex and up the street, about five minutes. It drove great. I parked it, turned it off. I sat for a moment, then turned the key to the ON II position. I heard the first two clicks. I cranked, it fired, then sputtered and died. I tried to hear the clicks again, and I heard nothing. It then only cranked, but no attempt to fire up. I am thinking this is because everything warmed up, including the relay with voltage running through it.
I do not suspect fuel filter because I have no hesitation when giving it gas, and the symptoms are too tempting. I wish I had a volt meter, but I don't, and I'm a little edgy about driving to buy one only to get stranded.
If I get a voltage meter, what do I test? Look for 12 volts at the pump with the key in ON II, and if there's no pump action, then it means the relay is good and the pump is the culprit? But 0 volts means the relay is bad?
Thank you.
I'd read that when you turn the key to this position, you're supposed to hear a click, then the check engine light is on for two seconds. Then when the light goes off, you're supposed to hear another click from the relay. Then a third click when you start, but you can't really hear it due to the starter. Today I cranked a lot and had no combustion, although I have compression and fire, so it must be fuel. Sometimes it would sputter to about 200 RPM but die.
It was pretty hot today and I had read this is also a problem. It was probably 88 degrees outside, and warmer inside. But tonight we had rain and and cold front so it was about 75 degrees inside my car. After all the stuff I did today, it finally started up. I drove it around my apartment complex and up the street, about five minutes. It drove great. I parked it, turned it off. I sat for a moment, then turned the key to the ON II position. I heard the first two clicks. I cranked, it fired, then sputtered and died. I tried to hear the clicks again, and I heard nothing. It then only cranked, but no attempt to fire up. I am thinking this is because everything warmed up, including the relay with voltage running through it.
I do not suspect fuel filter because I have no hesitation when giving it gas, and the symptoms are too tempting. I wish I had a volt meter, but I don't, and I'm a little edgy about driving to buy one only to get stranded.
If I get a voltage meter, what do I test? Look for 12 volts at the pump with the key in ON II, and if there's no pump action, then it means the relay is good and the pump is the culprit? But 0 volts means the relay is bad?
Thank you.
05-07-2007, 06:41 AM
#2
Member
Re: Sound like a MFR problem? (OUChevelleSS)
Pin #4 of the main relay has a Black/yellow wire, you can back probe it with a testlight and watch for power when the key is turned on.
It's pretty easy to remove and open the main relay, then resolder the cracked joints that go to the relay coils.
It's pretty easy to remove and open the main relay, then resolder the cracked joints that go to the relay coils.
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