M4

how do these stats look? the car is 100% stock btw.

fw190bvi

caster and toe are all good and w/i spec...does it still pull??

M4

yea, it still pulls. i'm running out of ideas now. the mechanic looked everywhere, he didn't see anything bent. i also told him to check the subframe, he says it looks fine.

i don't know what else it could be, did the alignment 2ce and nothings changed. before the accident it was fine, straight as hell, i would let the wheel go by itself for a long time man. i still think somethings bent, and i'm gonna find out one way or another.

fw190bvi

the whole frame could be bent or twisted...that would make it REALLY hard to notice unless you take it to one of those really fancy frame shops

alotawatts

Probably obvious but I gotta' ask...not brake pulling ?.

M4

nope, doesn't pull when i brake. this thing is driving me crazy.

M4

yea, i'm thinking about bringin it to a frame shop. this one body shop place told me that there are several holes in the engine compartment that are used to see if the frame is off. he said it would be $30 to check it and see. i forgot what he said the tool was called, but i'm starting to think about getting it checked out like that.

-RedneckDave-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea, i'm thinking about bringin it to a frame shop. this one body shop place told me that there are several holes in the engine compartment that are used to see if the frame is off. he said it would be $30 to check it and see. i forgot what he said the tool was called, but i'm starting to think about getting it checked out like that.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you are still having problems then that is what I would do.

syclone

that's funny.. your alignment was better going in than coming out..

alotawatts

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">nope, doesn't pull when i brake. this thing is driving me crazy.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I did'nt mean when you brake. I mean jack up each corner of the car starting with the front, spin each wheel and check for noticable drag from each brake ....

M4

oh i gotcha. i'll try it friday, doubt i will find anything but you never know. thx.

brads94accord

is your air pressure in the tires the same on both sides?

M4

yes psi is same allround

lemansteve

have they been consistent for the life of the tires? when i bought my 93 del Sol, it was from some lady who probably had no idea about tire pressures; the fronts were about 20psi different when i checked them a week after i bought the car. it always pulled, even after i corrected the pressures. new tires solved the problem.

m0t0rhead

Let me guess.. it's pulling to the right ?

Your left wheel is more forward than the right. That becomes a problem with the crown in the road. You need less caster on the left side to make up for the crown.

I would try rotating your tires to eliminate a radial pull. If that doesn't work, have your caster adjusted. Most honda's do not have caster adjustment from the factory.

KSE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Escobar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let me guess.. it's pulling to the right ?

Your left wheel is more forward than the right. That becomes a problem with the crown in the road. You need less caster on the left side to make up for the crown.

I would try rotating your tires to eliminate a radial pull. If that doesn't work, have your caster adjusted. Most honda's do not have caster adjustment from the factory. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree with what you say, except that the difference between his front caster is very small. His cross caster is only 0.2. I believe the tolerance for that is a 0.5 and it really shouldnt pull because of that small of a caster difference imo.

I posted this in his other thread:

"Well, only thing I can see is your camber.
Cars will pull to the side with the more positive camber. 0.5 degrees difference doesnt seem like too much, But take into consideration, the difference only increases when you sit down in the driver seat, and then also take into consideration road crown (tilt on the road toward the right for water drainoff), and that may be why you're pulling to the right.

Ideally you want slightly more positive camber on the left than the right for just these reasons. "

I think his pulling is a combination of the difference in camber (which will pull to the right), the difference in caster (albeit small will still pull to the right), and road crown obviously.

Look for a bent steering knuckle or lower control arm.

M4

yest the tires have allways had the same pressure. infact this car would always go straight as hell. i would let go of the wheel and it would go straight for a very very long time.

it's only after the accident the car pulls, so i doubt the tires are an issue.

TOAB

Sounds like you also now have a bent *** accord. Welcome to the club.

I still like looking at my car when its on jackstands... One side is like 2 notches over the other.

Anywho... I'm not quite sure what the alignment guys did to make my car drive straight, but I ended up with 1 2 degree adjustable balljoint... wish i could be of help, but I don't know **** about alignments and whatnot.

M4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I agree with what you say, except that the difference between his front caster is very small. His cross caster is only 0.2. I believe the tolerance for that is a 0.5 and it really shouldnt pull because of that small of a caster difference imo.

I posted this in his other thread:

"Well, only thing I can see is your camber.
Cars will pull to the side with the more positive camber. 0.5 degrees difference doesnt seem like too much, But take into consideration, the difference only increases when you sit down in the driver seat, and then also take into consideration road crown (tilt on the road toward the right for water drainoff), and that may be why you're pulling to the right.

Ideally you want slightly more positive camber on the left than the right for just these reasons. "

I think his pulling is a combination of the difference in camber (which will pull to the right), the difference in caster (albeit small will still pull to the right), and road crown obviously.

Look for a bent steering knuckle or lower control arm. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Why wouldn't they have aligned it and took everything (driver, road crown) into concideration?

I went to another mechanic and told him that it doesn't pull to the right when I brake, it goes straight only when the wheel is 1/2"+ to the left, and on the highway it goes straight by itself when I let go, but the wheel is still off 1/2". He told me to have the steering wheel adjusted.

What do you guys think of that?

M4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TOAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sounds like you also now have a bent *** accord. Welcome to the club.

I still like looking at my car when its on jackstands... One side is like 2 notches over the other.

Anywho... I'm not quite sure what the alignment guys did to make my car drive straight, but I ended up with 1 2 degree adjustable balljoint... wish i could be of help, but I don't know **** about alignments and whatnot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

not looking forward to it, hopefully mine isn't bent. hehe

KSE

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by M4 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Why wouldn't they have aligned it and took everything (driver, road crown) into concideration?

I went to another mechanic and told him that it doesn't pull to the right when I brake, it goes straight only when the wheel is 1/2"+ to the left, and on the highway it goes straight by itself when I let go, but the wheel is still off 1/2". He told me to have the steering wheel adjusted.

What do you guys think of that?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well camber and caster is not easily adjustable without aftermarket equipment. Take it back to the place you got that alignment and talk to a manager and say it still pulls. If its a reputable shop, I doubt they forgot to center the steering wheel, but its worth a shot i guess.

M4

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by KSE &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Well camber and caster is not easily adjustable without aftermarket equipment. Take it back to the place you got that alignment and talk to a manager and say it still pulls. If its a reputable shop, I doubt they forgot to center the steering wheel, but its worth a shot i guess.</TD></TR></TABLE>

they're not the best place i've been to, wouldn't put it past them. once they forgot to put a lug nut on, another time they only connected 1 of the 2 connections to the alternator they put in, and they also left a wrench in the windshield/hood area -which i kept.

if they're hard to adjust w/o aftermarket equp., why are camber/caster settings off, shouldn't they be at 0... do they move with time or what? or do you think b/c of the my specs, (how they're the opposite of what they should be) something is def bent, like you said earlier?