RotaryBzzzz

A very good DIY how-to article on cleaning the EGR ports for 90-97 Accords. Use the bolt-spec/drill-bit size recommendations EXACTLY or you be in a world of ****.

http://www.tech2tech.net/T2T_TSB/T2T013.pdf

STOLEN - ITR 98-0652

Good stuff.

I'm on fresh oil and all ignition parts are changed out. I'm guessing my only problem being HC may be due to a carbonized combustion chamber. I'm doing the FI cleaner bit; I'll try the high octane bit, too - I may retest tomorrow...

The only other bit of weirdness for me is I'm using ND Iridium plugs. They say to run a smaller gap than spec (I found out *after*). They came 0.040" and I set them at 0.044". Would a tighter gap produce better numbers? Colder plugs?

letholone

20$ in the pockets aint getting you **** here in cali these days. try 300 and giving up your regestration.not even bothering to bring your car in. then the next day WA_LAA, your car magicly passed smog.

worth every cent.

RotaryBzzzz

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR 98-0652 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">They came 0.040" and I set them at 0.044". Would a tighter gap produce better numbers? Colder plugs?</TD></TR></TABLE>

I definately think the recommended gap would produce the best numbers. How much better is questionable. It wasn't like your gap was set to 0.065" or something waay off.

The natural progression of sparkplug wear increases gap; .004 is not a huge difference in the big scheme of things.

Honestly I think your mugen header is the bigger culprit here. But your sooooo close, a fudge could get you by w/o having to "stock it out".

EDIT: a note on octance boosters. The stuff i like is "NOS offroad formula". They state, in precise Knock Points, how many "levels" your octane will be boosted (i.e. 2 or 5 or whatever). Unlike many octance boosters that state nothing.

EDIT2: I've seen situations where a mildly modified accord (89 LX-I fuel injected) passed ONLY when the stock exhaust was put back on. It had been modified then stocked out *almost*...my friend had left his welded exhuast on - that was the only thing left. Eventually, it had to come off and the original cat-back stock exahust put back ... the magic numbers came down.

These honda engineers are strange huh?

Big Chaze

With all those tips,.. why not just drop a new engine in yuor ride and then take it for a smog test?? I was expecting something small that made a big difference.

RotaryBzzzz

Some helpful California-centric information:

Under Federal law, automakers must warrant all emissions-related equipment for two years or 24,000 miles. Some components, such as the catalytic converter and electronic emissions-control units, are covered for eight years or 80,000 miles. California law requires a warranty that the vehicle will pass emission tests for 3 years or 50,000 miles, and 7 years or 70,000 miles for a part costing over $300 to replace.

RotaryBzzzz

Bump for AngryTroll (ripped for the Smog Emissions archive! - thanks!!)

"Honda has an emission warranty extension [for USA Accords] for part of '95, all of '96 and part of '97. Before 75k [Honda will] do a free inspection and fix any emission related problems (no charge). From 75k to 150k we do another free inspection, replace the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor/cap, do an oil change and fix any emmission related problems (again, no charge)."

A greener planet is good.

MiF OnES

Good post, but here in NyC i pay reg price notting more notting less -

ldodol

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump for AngryTroll (ripped for the Smog Emissions archive! - thanks!!)

"Honda has an emission warranty extension [for USA Accords] for part of '95, all of '96 and part of '97. Before 75k [Honda will] do a free inspection and fix any emission related problems (no charge). From 75k to 150k we do another free inspection, replace the spark plugs, plug wires, rotor/cap, do an oil change and fix any emmission related problems (again, no charge)."

A greener planet is good.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

does the car have to be stock for honda to make the car emissions legal if it doesn't pass?

RotaryBzzzz

I've pulled my own emissions sheets and here are my numbers as a baseline for everyone to use. My car is a 1994 EX stock runner (mods: K&N insert-filter + removed resonator, factory exhaust, 138k, 5spd). These numbers are for a California DYNO smog which is different than the typical revving test. Here in Cali they strap your car onto rollers and test emission output WITH A REAL-WORLD LOAD ON THE ENGINE (i.e. motor working to pull the car around). I've been told cars that will pass on a revving-test might not pass with this method and vice versa so understand my baseline dyno-test is derived differently than your rev @ idle-test. Use my numbers as a guide not a rule. (as a sidenote, my old 16v jetta passed beautifully when california switched to dyno-smog. I was "barely" passing with the revving-style test but had no problems with the dyno-test).


EMISSION TEST RESULTS - (removed K&N airfilter, removed reasonator, 91 octane pump gas, new 10-30w oil/ new spark plugs/ STP fuel injector cleaner in the tank)

15mph @ 1638 rpm
CO2%__%O2___HC______CO%___NO
15.0_____0.0___10_ppm__0.00____143_ppm

25mph @ 1751 rpm
15.1_____0.0___6_ppm___0.00____4_ppm

So you see I have 0% O2 saturation at both low and high speed testing...that's a good thing b/k no O2 means it's being converted into H20 + CO2 to kill CO + HC emmisions.

Green is good.

esoterEK..

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GimpyAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">&lt;BLOCKQUOTE&gt;quote:&lt;HR&gt;A 20 bill in the mechanics pocket always works.&lt;HR&gt;&lt;/BLOCKQUOTE&gt;


heh.. it took a 50.00 bill in North Carolina to get my cat-less car by </TD></TR></TABLE>

Once a year isnt to bad

degooser

good info..!!

crafty

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ldodol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">does the car have to be stock for honda to make the car emissions legal if it doesn't pass?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

are you serious?

turbo_ef9

Sarwat

Good stuff but I don't agree with:

1. Octane stuff. Lower octane will burn much easier than higher octane. That's why you use higher octane in high compression engines because it doesn't pre-ignite under higher temps (due to higher compression)

2. running light oil is not a good advice. Lighter oil will find its way into the combustion chamber easier than the thicker oil. That's why they tell you to use thicker oil if your rings aren't sealing well.

The rest of the stuff looks good to me...timing has a lot to do with it. Retarding timing will reduce NOX but may increase HC. Advancing timing will reduce HC but will increase NOX. I used to know this stuff well, now I'm struggling a bit...amazing how much you forget in just 2 yrs (smog test is required every 2 yrs around here)

alb_accord

man if u car is fucked up then is better to use good gas. if the engine is ok use cheap gas. man in philly no one gives a **** about this ****. the only thing the mecanic do is check the emition check the wheels and that is it

mickey513

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Stripped Honda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i dont agree with your idea of using higher octane gas it will make a cat work harder and cause you to have higher readings ... i have tested this and that is my conclusion ... so i always use the cheapest gas when testing ... no problems </TD></TR></TABLE>

Blind-Fashion

I use methonal when i go test, i have a 2 1/2 inche strait pip, no cat, 345 cc injectors on stock GSR ecu (super rich ) (its running 12:1 or worse on the dyno) and i still passed with flying colors, methonal is cheap, uner 3 bucks a gallon.

RotaryBzzzz

where can you get (crystal) meth? Do you run your gastank almost dry then cut the remaining gas w/ meth? How does it idle/run with meth?

Any suggestions on sources?

RotaryBzzzz

Another spin on what to use in your gastank before you test: From my archives

edit: ethanol and methanol are structurally similar carbons....this post and the one above are probably related...

---------------

"I plan on running good gas (like I always do) and running the **** out of the car before I have it tested. The day you test, you could run 4 or 5 bottles of Isopropyl Dry Gas on an empty tank [take a gallon of gas with you in case you run out on the way there or home. And FILL UP immediately after you test (hopefully with flying colors)]. Essentially what you are burning will be very similar to Gasohol, the old 70Â’s ethanol mix. ItÂ’s not a good idea to burn it all the time (hence filling up after you test) but your emissions are usually little more than water vapor when you use it. "

vtec.dc2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RotaryBzzz &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Tip #5: Symptom: Your Accord fails smog b/k of High NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) emmisions. This can happen at both high and low speed dynotests.

(from my other thread)
It's clogged EGR passageways underneath the fuel rail. Not the convertor unless your throwing high H2 and CO levels. You should notice your oil is super black at oil change and propably burning off at least a quart. On 94+, there is a service port underneath the fuelrail. However pre93 need to fabricate their own port...it involves drilling out the timples (?) and creating your own access. There is the space for it....in those years they didn't bother to create an actual hatch that can removed without some fabrication. This is what you need to do....
1) depressurize fuel system & remove fuel rail
2) create service port to EGR passageways by drilling out timples (underneath fuel rail) (pre94).
3) clean passsageways with solvent/brushes
4) reassemble, tune up and you should now pass with much MUCH low NOx emmisions showing.


[Modified by RotaryBzzz, 10:15 AM 10/23/2002]</TD></TR></TABLE>

any more ideas on how to reduce NOx level, it was higher by .28. everything else was fine, car doens't seem like it would run lean because it doesn't get good MPG.

RotaryBzzzz

are you running the stock ECU?

vtec.dc2

car is completely stock

mark72

here are my results:
95' Integra w/ 116k miles. AEM intake, dc sports header.

co%
Max: 0.54 My measure: 0.61 @ 15mph
NO%(PPM)
max: 711 My measure: 1143 @ 15mph

those same tests at 25mph i passed.
what would you recommend that would help pass RotaryBzzz?

mark72

any tips?