REAL GUIDE FOR AUTO MANUAL SWAP IN 94-97 ACCORD 5 SPD 5 SPEED 95 96
09-15-2005, 07:37 AM
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REAL GUIDE FOR AUTO MANUAL SWAP IN 94-97 ACCORD 5 SPD 5 SPEED 95 96
Hey guys, I have looked all over the internet and couldn't find anything about swapping a CD5 (94-97) from an automatic to a five-speed. So I did it blindly and now I am ready to post how i did it. Sorry no pics, but i tried to describe it as well as I could. Just to let you guys know, I did the swap while I was swapping in an H22A. So, all of this was done with the motor out. I would suggest doing it that way but I guess it could be done by only dropping the transmission. And another thing, this would have been really hard alone; have a friend help. Read the whole thing before you start, probably even more than once.
To Start What You Need (needs to be from 94-97)
5-Speed Transmission
5-Speed Mount bracket (buy from honda ~$55) *
5-Speed Half-Shaft
5-Speed Driver's side axle
Shifter assembly
Shift boot
Shift Cables
Shift Cable Bracket
4 x Shift Cable clips
5-Speed pedals **
Clutch Master Cylinder (Reservoir and all)
Clutch Lines (From reservoir to slave cylinder)
Bracket that fastens lines to passenger side strut tower
Slave Cylinder (and all lines attached to it)
5-Speed Starter
Mig/Tig welder
Somebody who is experienced at using it (not your buddy who says he can weld)
*I have heard of people not using it and everything working fine but it makes the motor sit crooked and thus the chance to mess up axles/hubs.
**You will have to change out all the automatic pedals for the 5-speed but use the automatic gas pedal on the 5-speed bracket (will discuss later)
Now the Fun Part
I am expecting you have already taken the battery out, axles and tranny out, gotten all the parts on the list and removed them yourself. And I hope that you realize I will not cover every little thing that you should do out of common sense. This is only for information purposes, I am in no way responsible for anything that happens to your car in any way because of following this guide. I haven't had any problems and hopefully you wont either.
1. Take the automatic pedals out. At honda they can print out a parts breakdown which shows you all the bolts and nuts which attach the pedals. It is very helpful if you dont have much hands on knowledge/experience. Be sure to unplug the Brake pedal switch and not to mess up the wires, unless you dont care about having brake lights.
2. Pull out the precut areas in the sound deadening material on the firewall. behind the one where the clutch pedal mounts there is a place where the master cylinder will go. Use a hole saw to cut the appropriate size hole and a drill bit to drill the master cylinder mount holes. Behind the driver strut tower on the firewall is where you will mount the clutch master cylinder. REMEMBER part of your wiring harness is run in the same place you will be drilling.
3. Put in the master cylinder and bolt down the resevoir in the same place you took it out of the 5 speed. All the screw holes are there. You can't bolt in the master cylinder until you have the 5 Speed pedals in.
4. Before you put the pedals in, take out the cotter pin and unhook the spring for the gas pedal on both sets. Then switch the gas pedals. You do this because the throttle cables mount to the pedals differently for the auto's and manual's. So if you switch the throttle cable disregard this step.
5. Installing the new pedals is exactly reverse of taking them out. All the bolts/holes are there though. This will take some patience, you may have to remove or move some other things to make room for the pedals to go in. Just don't forget to put it all back. You have to make a top bracket for the clutch pedal, otherwise you will just bend the firewall when you press the clutch, and it will stay partially engaged = bye bye clutch.
6. You must have the center dash piece out for the next step. Be sure to double check that i haven't forgotten any screws. And be careful taking all this out because it has to go back in and it can all be seen. Take out the dash piece under the steering wheel, 1 screw behind the ashtray, then pull it straight foreward. Take out the glove box, there are 2 retainers that keep it from falling all the way to the floor, twist them and take them out. Lift the armrest, in the bottom there is a place that opens with a screwdriver, open it and take out the 2 screws. take out the cup holder, there are 2 or 3 screws that need to come out there. after that take the armrest piece out. You will have to wiggle it around the e-brake. Take the radio and din tray out. Take out the 2 screws down by the e-brake holding in the center radio/shifter piece it should pop straight foreward when you pull on it. On the center dash piece there should be 2 screws on either side and 2 inside at the top and one in the metal piece behind the radio. Pull out the center dash piece. Now your car should be 90% naked inside.
7. Unplug all the plugs and the shift cable from the auto shifter assembly, then take it out. the white shift selector on the driver side of the shifter needs to go back in the car. So take the 2 screws out of it and plug it back in to the grey and brown plug. Make sure it is in the park position and tape it up so it doesnt short out on anything and tuck it out the way.
8. Run the clutch lines in the same place you took them out of the 5-speed. They go from the clutch master cyl. over the brake master cyl. then into the metal clips with the brake lines. Then snake them behind the heater hoses and vacuum lines. behind the evap canister. then mount your plate that goes to flexible hose on the lower part of the strut tower, and just leave it hanging until you get the tranny in.
9. Now would be a good time to get the auto tranny bracket out since you already are in the engine compartment. Use a permanent marker to mark the position of the braket so that the new one goes in the same place. Drill out all the spot welds and take a pry bar/screw driver and a hammer, and beat out all the spot welds. What ever bending you do to the strut tower you should be able to beat out from the inside of the fender well.
10. Weld the new tranny bracket into place making sure to get it in to place correctly and the welds are all solid.
11. Take the "stock exhaust" down to the flex coupling. If you have aftermarket exhaust you may have to remove it all. Take the front 4 screws off the heat shield. This should hang it down enough for you to get to the shift cables.
12. Unscrew the rubber piece you see under the heat shield. This holds the shift cable in place. take it and the shift cable out.
13. The piece that is in the middle-bottom of the firewall needs to be notched for the cable mount bracket to mount properly on the crossmember. the notch needs to be 3-4 inches wide and about 1 inch deep. Test fit the bracket before you start hacking. Because you need to see exactly how it goes up there. Im sure you could find a way around doing this but i did it anyway to prevent any binding mounting issues with the cables. Use a hammer, torch, cutoff wheel, whatever you prefer, just do it.
14. Push the shifter end of the cables up through the hole to the inside of the car and mount the new rubber piece to the same place the other one came from. Then mount the cables to the crossmember with the bracket that you notched the firewall for.
15. Put the new shifter assembly in the car. It should mount to all the same holes you took the auto shifter from. Then put the cables on the tabs, put the washers on, and the cotter pins. Now pull the cables through the mount slot and slide the 2 clips on to hold them in place.
16. Pull up the passenger carpet at the foot of the leg area and unbolt the computer mount plate. Flip it over and unplug the tranny computer. It is the small one. I would keep it and not cut the wires until you make sure everything works.
17. Now put the new tranny in. Its a good idea to put in a new clutch kit and flywheel while you have it out. You will have to wiggle it a little to get it to go in the new mount, it is kind of in the way. Mount your cables to the tranny and install the clips just like you did on the shifter assembly. It makes it easier if you have someone inside the car to move the shifter and make it easier to get in the clips. Then hook them to the tranny add washers and cotter pins and your almost done.
18. Plug up the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and on my h22 tranny we looped the tranny cooler lines. There will be a few left over plugs from the auto tranny. leave them until you know everything works then I dont care what you do with them.
19. Mount the half shaft to the back of the block. Put it in the diff, and its 3 bolts.
20. Fill and bleed the clutch lines, reassemble your suspension/axles, put battery back in, double check pedals, shifter assembly, cables, clutch lines.
21. When you go to start the car if the car doesnt start check to make sure the [P] is lit up on the gauge cluster. if it isnt the shift selector needs to be moved until it lights up. If it doesnt start then, then there is a problem somewhere else in the wiring. make sure that everything with a plug is plugged in. Make sure the starter signal wire is hooked up (we forgot that twice).
And now No More Slush Box (or one wheel peel for me, LSD BABY!
)
If you have any other problems post and I'll do what I can to help.
Till then, Peace!!
To Start What You Need (needs to be from 94-97)
5-Speed Transmission
5-Speed Mount bracket (buy from honda ~$55) *
5-Speed Half-Shaft
5-Speed Driver's side axle
Shifter assembly
Shift boot
Shift Cables
Shift Cable Bracket
4 x Shift Cable clips
5-Speed pedals **
Clutch Master Cylinder (Reservoir and all)
Clutch Lines (From reservoir to slave cylinder)
Bracket that fastens lines to passenger side strut tower
Slave Cylinder (and all lines attached to it)
5-Speed Starter
Mig/Tig welder
Somebody who is experienced at using it (not your buddy who says he can weld)
*I have heard of people not using it and everything working fine but it makes the motor sit crooked and thus the chance to mess up axles/hubs.
**You will have to change out all the automatic pedals for the 5-speed but use the automatic gas pedal on the 5-speed bracket (will discuss later)
Now the Fun Part
I am expecting you have already taken the battery out, axles and tranny out, gotten all the parts on the list and removed them yourself. And I hope that you realize I will not cover every little thing that you should do out of common sense. This is only for information purposes, I am in no way responsible for anything that happens to your car in any way because of following this guide. I haven't had any problems and hopefully you wont either.
1. Take the automatic pedals out. At honda they can print out a parts breakdown which shows you all the bolts and nuts which attach the pedals. It is very helpful if you dont have much hands on knowledge/experience. Be sure to unplug the Brake pedal switch and not to mess up the wires, unless you dont care about having brake lights.
2. Pull out the precut areas in the sound deadening material on the firewall. behind the one where the clutch pedal mounts there is a place where the master cylinder will go. Use a hole saw to cut the appropriate size hole and a drill bit to drill the master cylinder mount holes. Behind the driver strut tower on the firewall is where you will mount the clutch master cylinder. REMEMBER part of your wiring harness is run in the same place you will be drilling.
3. Put in the master cylinder and bolt down the resevoir in the same place you took it out of the 5 speed. All the screw holes are there. You can't bolt in the master cylinder until you have the 5 Speed pedals in.
4. Before you put the pedals in, take out the cotter pin and unhook the spring for the gas pedal on both sets. Then switch the gas pedals. You do this because the throttle cables mount to the pedals differently for the auto's and manual's. So if you switch the throttle cable disregard this step.
5. Installing the new pedals is exactly reverse of taking them out. All the bolts/holes are there though. This will take some patience, you may have to remove or move some other things to make room for the pedals to go in. Just don't forget to put it all back. You have to make a top bracket for the clutch pedal, otherwise you will just bend the firewall when you press the clutch, and it will stay partially engaged = bye bye clutch.
6. You must have the center dash piece out for the next step. Be sure to double check that i haven't forgotten any screws. And be careful taking all this out because it has to go back in and it can all be seen. Take out the dash piece under the steering wheel, 1 screw behind the ashtray, then pull it straight foreward. Take out the glove box, there are 2 retainers that keep it from falling all the way to the floor, twist them and take them out. Lift the armrest, in the bottom there is a place that opens with a screwdriver, open it and take out the 2 screws. take out the cup holder, there are 2 or 3 screws that need to come out there. after that take the armrest piece out. You will have to wiggle it around the e-brake. Take the radio and din tray out. Take out the 2 screws down by the e-brake holding in the center radio/shifter piece it should pop straight foreward when you pull on it. On the center dash piece there should be 2 screws on either side and 2 inside at the top and one in the metal piece behind the radio. Pull out the center dash piece. Now your car should be 90% naked inside.
7. Unplug all the plugs and the shift cable from the auto shifter assembly, then take it out. the white shift selector on the driver side of the shifter needs to go back in the car. So take the 2 screws out of it and plug it back in to the grey and brown plug. Make sure it is in the park position and tape it up so it doesnt short out on anything and tuck it out the way.
8. Run the clutch lines in the same place you took them out of the 5-speed. They go from the clutch master cyl. over the brake master cyl. then into the metal clips with the brake lines. Then snake them behind the heater hoses and vacuum lines. behind the evap canister. then mount your plate that goes to flexible hose on the lower part of the strut tower, and just leave it hanging until you get the tranny in.
9. Now would be a good time to get the auto tranny bracket out since you already are in the engine compartment. Use a permanent marker to mark the position of the braket so that the new one goes in the same place. Drill out all the spot welds and take a pry bar/screw driver and a hammer, and beat out all the spot welds. What ever bending you do to the strut tower you should be able to beat out from the inside of the fender well.
10. Weld the new tranny bracket into place making sure to get it in to place correctly and the welds are all solid.
11. Take the "stock exhaust" down to the flex coupling. If you have aftermarket exhaust you may have to remove it all. Take the front 4 screws off the heat shield. This should hang it down enough for you to get to the shift cables.
12. Unscrew the rubber piece you see under the heat shield. This holds the shift cable in place. take it and the shift cable out.
13. The piece that is in the middle-bottom of the firewall needs to be notched for the cable mount bracket to mount properly on the crossmember. the notch needs to be 3-4 inches wide and about 1 inch deep. Test fit the bracket before you start hacking. Because you need to see exactly how it goes up there. Im sure you could find a way around doing this but i did it anyway to prevent any binding mounting issues with the cables. Use a hammer, torch, cutoff wheel, whatever you prefer, just do it.
14. Push the shifter end of the cables up through the hole to the inside of the car and mount the new rubber piece to the same place the other one came from. Then mount the cables to the crossmember with the bracket that you notched the firewall for.
15. Put the new shifter assembly in the car. It should mount to all the same holes you took the auto shifter from. Then put the cables on the tabs, put the washers on, and the cotter pins. Now pull the cables through the mount slot and slide the 2 clips on to hold them in place.
16. Pull up the passenger carpet at the foot of the leg area and unbolt the computer mount plate. Flip it over and unplug the tranny computer. It is the small one. I would keep it and not cut the wires until you make sure everything works.
17. Now put the new tranny in. Its a good idea to put in a new clutch kit and flywheel while you have it out. You will have to wiggle it a little to get it to go in the new mount, it is kind of in the way. Mount your cables to the tranny and install the clips just like you did on the shifter assembly. It makes it easier if you have someone inside the car to move the shifter and make it easier to get in the clips. Then hook them to the tranny add washers and cotter pins and your almost done.
18. Plug up the VSS (vehicle speed sensor) and on my h22 tranny we looped the tranny cooler lines. There will be a few left over plugs from the auto tranny. leave them until you know everything works then I dont care what you do with them.
19. Mount the half shaft to the back of the block. Put it in the diff, and its 3 bolts.
20. Fill and bleed the clutch lines, reassemble your suspension/axles, put battery back in, double check pedals, shifter assembly, cables, clutch lines.
21. When you go to start the car if the car doesnt start check to make sure the [P] is lit up on the gauge cluster. if it isnt the shift selector needs to be moved until it lights up. If it doesnt start then, then there is a problem somewhere else in the wiring. make sure that everything with a plug is plugged in. Make sure the starter signal wire is hooked up (we forgot that twice).
And now No More Slush Box (or one wheel peel for me, LSD BABY!
)If you have any other problems post and I'll do what I can to help.
Till then, Peace!!
09-15-2005, 09:17 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
yes most of it applies to 4th gens also and theres already quite a few writeups for 5th gens on this board if your search the archives.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117145
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1237137
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1235221
and btw the auto tranny mount doesnt require any welding you can modify the stock mount to make it work exactly the same as a manual mount, there is even a tack weld where you drill the new manual tranny mounting holes. they are identical except for the mounting point. heres a side by side comparison of the manual and auto bracket. the link to side view of the mounts doesnt work anymore...
Modified by raceACCORDingly at 6:28 PM 9/15/2005
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1117145
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1237137
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1235221
and btw the auto tranny mount doesnt require any welding you can modify the stock mount to make it work exactly the same as a manual mount, there is even a tack weld where you drill the new manual tranny mounting holes. they are identical except for the mounting point. heres a side by side comparison of the manual and auto bracket. the link to side view of the mounts doesnt work anymore...
Modified by raceACCORDingly at 6:28 PM 9/15/2005
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09-15-2005, 04:29 PM
#9
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Re: (Alibi86)
I spent about $160 on pedals, lines, etc. the tranny came with my swap so it was in the money for the motor.
I knew that all we had to do was re-drill the mount hole, but I wanted it to be as factory as possible. That is why I used the factory 5-speed mount rather than modifying the existing mount.
I knew that all we had to do was re-drill the mount hole, but I wanted it to be as factory as possible. That is why I used the factory 5-speed mount rather than modifying the existing mount.
09-15-2005, 05:46 PM
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Black Ex Coupe)
5th gens.. the auto and manual mounts are exactly the same besides the mounting point thats why theres even a tack weld where the manual holes are at. drill right through the tack weld.. not too sure about 4th gens but i assume its similar.
09-15-2005, 08:44 PM
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Re: REAL GUIDE FOR AUTO MANUAL SWAP IN 94-97 ACCORD 5 SPD 5 SPEED 95 96 (MAXX941)
i got that pic race is talking about. WHERE I HAVE IT DRILLED IS THE WRONG SPOT!!!
DRILL on the spot above the STOCK LOCATION. THE PIC IS ONLY FOR COMPARISON!!
its a huge pic. so click the link.
manual 5th gen bracket on top, stock auto bracket on bottom
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
DRILL on the spot above the STOCK LOCATION. THE PIC IS ONLY FOR COMPARISON!!
its a huge pic. so click the link.
manual 5th gen bracket on top, stock auto bracket on bottom
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....x.jpg
09-16-2005, 04:57 AM
#14
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Re: REAL GUIDE FOR AUTO MANUAL SWAP IN 94-97 ACCORD 5 SPD 5 SPEED 95 96 (H22A_CD5)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by H22A_CD5 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey guys, I have looked all over the internet and couldn't find anything about swapping a CD5 (94-97) from an automatic to a five-speed.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah its a good write and all, but next look harder there is at least 4-5 good writes up about this topic on this site alone.
and also dont forget accordinglydone.com
yeah its a good write and all, but next look harder there is at least 4-5 good writes up about this topic on this site alone.
and also dont forget accordinglydone.com
04-10-2006, 09:02 PM
#16
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Re: REAL GUIDE FOR AUTO MANUAL SWAP IN 94-97 ACCORD 5 SPD 5 SPEED 95 96 (yellowdcn)
I'm looking at the wiring diagram now and I think for a manual swap you could probably just wire the two black wires with white tracers coming out of the brown connector (they are respectively in slots one and two) right by the A/T Gear Position switch together for a constant start (no depressing clutch) needed and you can get ride of that stupid switch.
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05-23-2006, 12:39 PM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
old thread...
but if you guys wanna see pics of the conversion check out this thread...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1237137
but if you guys wanna see pics of the conversion check out this thread...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1237137
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