ieetgluu

I posted a couple months ago without response, so I will try again.
2000 Accord f23a4 5spd.
Had no spark at plugs or coil.
I changed cap, rotor and coil at first with no luck.
Then I had the ICM/Igniter tested, and it tested bad. So I replaced it with a new one that tested good. Still no spark.
The immobilizer light comes on, then goes off like it is supposed to, so Im thinking it isnt that.
There is 12v at the distributor.
The ignition fuse is good, as well as all other fuses in the drivers side panel, including the ECM fuse.
I have two obdII scanners that will both link to the ECM, and neither show codes. Although the car has sat, and the battery died a few times over the last year so I wouldnt expect to find any codes anyway.
It started a year ago when I moved the car in my driveway and stalled it in reverse. Wouldnt start after that day.
Im down to 'thinking' its either the CKP(Crankshaft position sensor behind timing belt), or one of the distributor sensors that arent replaceable.
Im open to any suggestions for testing or checking. And any serious responses will be much appreciated. Ill add to if there is anything I forgot to add to my list of what Ive done.

Rusty_hoock

Im not super familiar with that year honda, that being said can you be more spacific with reguard to what the car does ie does it turn over, stumble. Have you tested the main relay?

joec44

Have you done a comp. test? check the T belt? cam&crank lined up are the plugs wet, fuel pressure? Any spark at all/ pls check and repost

jdmcertified909

+1

ieetgluu

Havent done a compression test. No need to as there is no spark at the plugs or coil.
Plugs are wet, pump primes, timing belt and rotor both turn.
Ive checked most everything that I can
Yesterday I tested for 12v+ again at the yel/blk and the wht/blk in the dist., both good.
Tested for continuity between the distributor and the ecm through the yel/grn signal wire, good.
Anyone know of a way to test the distributor sensors without just replacing it?
I had used an led testlight to check for a signal pulse on the yel/grn a couple months ago and got nothing, which points to ecm not working and not sending signal OR ecm not sending signal because its not getting signal from one of the ignition sensors(CKP,CYP, etc.)

ieetgluu

And thanks for the responses

ieetgluu

Yes, it turns over... Several months back I would prime/ and turn over so much that it would 'fart' a bit. Ive seen this mentioned in another post as happening due to a large build up fuel vapors essentialy igniting from compression. Which makes sense to me, and seems all that was happening. And no Ive not tested the main as Ive not seen its symptoms after reading through many posts about it

Rusty_hoock

See if this link....


http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_2.php

ieetgluu

Haha, yah, thats where I started a few months back. Ive been through it all, and wasnt getting a signal to the distributor. THEN, I had tested the ICM/igniter and it was bad, replaced it, but still no spark. I have yet to retest for signal again, but at this point I dont think the result will be different. Im still convinced, and rightfully so, that its either CKP behind timing belt, or CYP in distributor. Id love to find a way to test them both. HELMs has nothing

ieetgluu

Its been a PITA constantly needing a helper to crank each time I re-test. I bought a starter switch when i bought the hei spark tester, but im not sure if i can use it on this car. Its pretty tight in the starter area.

ieetgluu

bump

jdmcertified909

you said the car sat for a while right? was the inside of the distributor wet with oil? or did the wires between the icm and the coil feel hard and brittle? i ask because if there oil they can be broken inside the insulation and not completing the circuit. and if they were wet in oil same they should feel a lil brittle. but check your wires for continuity with a dmm set to continuity hold the prongs with the wire ends with something and wiggle the wires.

jdmcertified909

check continuity between those wires

ieetgluu

Thanks for your response. No there isnt any oil in the dist., its dry. The wires could be considered a bit brittle. I did just end up ordering a used distributor, cuz its the next cheapest thing to swap that I couldnt find a way to test. Havent received it yet.
However ill still continue testing my current one in any way i can. Are you referring to the coil wires? perhaps one in particular? A couple days ago i had made a new icm to coil (-) wire, because i had spliced into it years ago to add an MSD boost timing master. I wanted to eliminate the msd as an issue, so i did, and made a new wire as i said. as for the positive coil wire, i have tested it and the (-) for 12v while the key is on, and 12v is there(on all of the blk/yel). Havent had a working test light to check for a signal on the coil (-) while turning over, but before i had found my icm to be bad, i had checked for signal pulse with a led tester on the yel/grn(i believe) coming into the distributor(again while turning over). The light didnt blink which lead me to believe it was either CYP, CKP, or ECM. Still nothing after getting a good icm, so my belief is still the same.
Thus a different distributor should rule out CYP being the culprit. I had also checked for continuity of the yel/grn wire between the icm and ecm, and it checked out good.

ieetgluu

So I just swapped the distributor and still no go. Down to the Crank sensor, and ecu. Is there an ecu, like a jdm one, that will work with the f23a4 without having the immobilizer? I know fos sure that the O2 sensor pins at the ecu are different from the f23a4 to the f23a1, but I could swap those around and figure out which other ones need changing with the helms. Anyone know of a way to test the CKP?

JerrysF23a

Did this issue ever get resolved?? I have an 02 accord with F23a4 with similar issue - no spark, good power to distributor wires etc.

Bobnotch

Pull the vacuum hose apart at the valve, and shoot some ether into it for 10 seconds. Start the car. Does it run until the ether is gone? or still no spark? Let us know. What I'm trying to find out is if it's a main relay, or something else.

ieetgluu

I'm convinced it's the crank sensor on mine, have been for years now. Thing still sits lol, turbo kit and all

JerrysF23a

Still sitting? That is a total shame. Mine is actually an Engine swap. I picked up a JDM low mileage engine (F23a1) and swapped it into my car - F23a4 - ULEV. The ULEV engine was a running engine when I drove it to my place so the main fuses, ECM, etc. "SHOULD" Be OK. I ran a meter across them to verify. All dash lights work, No Codes. One of the only things I noticed that were different between the engines were the Exhaust manifold on the car (ULEV) had an O2 sensor on it whereas the JDM engine did not, so I swapped exhaust manifolds to make it like original. But NO SPARK. I will try the Ether, but I am not expecting much since I don't appear to have spark at the coil... Right now the car is at a Professional Mechanic for evaluation. (I guess I felt I hadn't already wasted enough money on this project so I would just throw away more $ by getting a professional mechanic to double check my work!) Of course this is a part time venture for him so it isn't his top priority. This car is a project for my son who needs it to get back and forth to work. Right now he is riding his bicycle!

ieetgluu

Yes, sitting. At the time, 4 years ago, I got no response on the Honda boards. I also didn't have the money to pay a pro.
Then I got into a new hobby, diesels, got a duramax and went from there. The diesel boards also have people who help, and respond.
The day I had scheduled help to push the Accord into the garage last year was the same day my daughter decided to enter the world. Now time is scarce.

JerrysF23a

My car was an engine swap. Engine ran before pulling old one out. I took EXTRA care to make sure all wires went to the same locations and all sensors were plugged in. NO SPARK! I did all the testing listed and everything checked out. 12V in distributor, distributor ground wires OK, signal from ECM YES, but no spark from the coil. (Changed coil and IGM 3 times w/parts from running cars.) It turned out there was a FAULTY GROUND nearest to the temperature sensor. Try cleaning all grounds thoroughly! Where in NH are you located? I am in Dover.

shreve66

I did the same thing, engine swap. Now no spark. Wth? I've been troubleshooting for a couple of days, no luck yet.

JerrysF23a

I had No spark from the plugs so I checked it directly at the coil. Still nothing. Follow the diagnostic link from Rusty hoock above. It is a fairly good method.
Also verify the continuity of the wires in the distributor as shown in the pictures from Jdmcertified909 above.
I was frustrated because I had voltage in the distributor when and where I was supposed to; I had continuity and I had a signal coming from the ECU, but still no spark! I changed the Ignition control module multiple times and the coil, then the whole distributor (all parts from a running car!). My mechanic initially got it running by using his $9000 scanner tool and hitting the "relearn" button. But when he disconnected the scanner the engine died immediately! He found a weird signal (-460) coming from the temp sensor so he guessed it was a faulty ground. He went to to ground closest to the temp sensor, cleaned it and the car ran! GOOD LUCK!

shreve66

Are you kidding me? I have a code for my intake temp sensor. P0113 right now. Is that the temp sensor you are talking about?

JerrysF23a

Mine did not show a code. I am not positive whether it was air temp or water temp (Mechanic did the diag). I would definitely clean as many of the grounds as possible. I might even use dielectric grease (I couldn't believe that was my problem. My ground connections didn't appear bad visually).