Nathan Brown

So the other day my car wouldn't start quickly realized the fuel pump was not priming so i started trouble shooting
I have a 1999 honda accord coupe 3.0vtec ..before testing too many things i pulled a pump from another car and it didnt work either.
I ended up buying a new pump and relay..i have good power and ground at the relay and am not measuring any resistance in the ground from the connector to the pump
I have 11.85v at the pump connector..I back probed it to see what happened when I plugged it in and found the voltage drops to zero as soon as the pump is plugged into the connector on the sending unit..so I have 11.8 at connect to unit and 11.8 at connecting from unit to pump but when the pump is plugged in bye bye power..also to check the voltage at the pump I turned key to second position..the relay closed the switch then I stuck a peice of a straw in to hold it closed so I could maintain constant voltage while I checked
This has been happening over the past week and a half and has only ran twice since then. The times it has ran I have no idea how it did I would just be checking voltage and all of the sudden the pump kicks on..both time the pump wasnt in the tank so I had to stop put it in the tank run the car ..the first time it ran and started fine for about 12 hours and the second time was for 5 minutes then it died
Anyone know what could cause this?
Bad ecu
Ecu not grounding
Short in wire(not likely between fuse and pump because I have taken seats and carpet from drivers side to trace wires so maybe somewhere else?)
Any and i mean any tips thoughts opinions advice etc...would be extremely appreciated

19Accord97

Sounds like the Main Relay under the dash. Common problem and would explain the intermittent starts.

Nathan Brown

Says in the title
New relay
That's the pgmfi
I can post pics of it but the solder joints are all good
It's not the relay it's not the pump those I know

Nathan Brown

Anyone ha r any ideas

r_kage

This troubleshooting guide is from my manual (1995 accord ex, 4-cyl), so the connections may vary, but maybe the general guidelines will be helpful:

"If you suspect a problem with the fuel pump, check that the fuel pump actually runs; when it is ON, you will hear some noise if you hold your ear to the fuel fill port with the fuel fill cap removed. The fuel pump should run for two seconds, when ignition switch is first turned on. If the fuel pump does not make noise, check as follows:
"1. Raise the front section of the spare tire lid.
"2. Disconnect the 3P connector. CAUTION: Be sure to turn the ignition switch OFF before disconnecting the wires.
"3. Connect the RED/WHT wire and BLK/YEL wire with a jumper wire at the PGM-FI main relay connector.
"4. Check that battery voltage is available at the fuel pump connector when the ignition switch is turned ON (positive probe to the BLK/YEL wire, negative probe to the body ground). If battery voltage is available, replace the fuel pump.
"If there is no voltage, check the fuel pump ground and wire harness (see page 11-108).

"Replacement
"1. Remove the fuel tank (see page 11-110, 11-111).
"2. Disconnect the 2P connector from the fuel pump.
"3. Remove the fuel pump mounting nuts.
"4. Remove the fuel pump from the fuel tank.
"5. Install a new washer on the banjo bolt, then install parts in the reverse order of removal"