Ma2kreis

Hello, I just recently purchased a 94 Accord LX coupe MT that had the EX's F22B1 swapped into it. The VTEC is not wired up and I beleive the harness and ECU are for the F22B2. I plan to swap these out for the EX harness and ECU and was wondering if the LX dash harness (or firewall harness I beleive) is plug-n-play with the EX components I'll be swapping in, or will I have to be moving pins around?

tim73

If it were me, I would take LOTS of pictures of everything. Especially the PCM model # and the connections. Also, the connections of the distributor. Then, on the drivers side, where everything connects...disconnect them, and take REALLY detailed pictures of both the male and female sides of the connectors. Then go to junkyard..and try to match up what you have on your photos. I had a 98 acura cl once, and i tried to install a accord 3.0 98 engine, there were so many little differences..i mustve made 20 trips to the junk yard, before i got it right.

Ma2kreis

Thanks for the tip! That must've been a pain I'll take pics of the original connector locations n go from there. I beleive theres not much of a difference between the engine harnesses. I have an engine harness on the way, and an ECU that both match the motor the previous owner swapped in, I was just wondering of anyone could chime in as to whether there would be a difference between the LX's and EX's firewall harness, and if I need to wire/reroute connections or is it plug-n-play. I read around that there are 2 pins that needed to be swapped if an EX ECU was going in, but Im not sure as to why, and what they go to

GhostAccord

No need to swap any pins if you are staying with the 94-95 OBD1. The 94-95 F22B1 and F22B2 use the same ECU pin configurations. It's only if you try to use the OBD1 ECU from a 94-95 in an earlier OBD1 Accord (90-93 CB) that you have to swap these pins.

The big differences in the engine harness between the B1 and B2 is in the ignition coils hookup. IIRC the B1 is internal and the B2 is external, Depends on which one of these you have currently. The wires and connectors can be swapped to match what you have.

Ma2kreis

Ah thank you for clearing that up with me. I'm thinking I want to swap the dizzy out for the internal coil dizzy that belongs with the motor. The previous owner seemed to not be too keen on wiring his motor correctly, I would hate to follow suit. Thank you again, all I need now is the dizzy and I'll be able to swap in the correct EX harness and ECU by tuesday, I'll report back with how the motor behaves, thank you all!

Ma2kreis

So I've swapped in the B1 harness, and have ran into 2 discrepancies. 1 I beleive is the O2 sensor electrical connector that comes off the harness right underneath the intake manifold. Could I route that to the sensor that sits in the LX's header exhaust manifold? And 2, theres this other 4 slot male electrical connector that comes off the forward most portion of the harness on the passenger side. What does this go to, I cannot find a connection for it.

Ma2kreis

Heres a pic of it

holmesnmanny

Your pic is not showing up.

The difference in the harnesses is the ex has the oxygen sensor in the downpipe while the lx has the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold, the ex has vtec wiring while the lx doesn't, and the internal/external coil difference.

You will need to use shielded wire and extend the oxygen sensor wiring. It's very important to use shielded wire. If you don't, regular wire will pick up radio interference and will give false signals to the ecu.

Ma2kreis

Now I am having a no start condition. Since I have a code 15 I have checked spark at plugs: none. Checked the resistance on the Pos and Neg terminals on the coil and that is within spec. When I turn ignition on, and check voltage on the blk/ylw wire leading to the coil the reading just keeps increasing, false reading. How do i check if proper voltage is getting to the distro? Need help, this is my daily

Ma2kreis

So instead of going with my plug-n-play method featuring the EX engine harness, distro, ECU, and EGR valve (I saw the EGR valve electrical connectors were different between the 2 harnesses), I ran into an ignition problem of which I chalked up to being a wire somewhere in the harness. I wasnt about to take the harness out and chase the wire since this vehicle is my daily so I tossed the LX harness back in along with the LX distro n egr valve, desperate for the car just to start so I could get to school for the week. I left in the ECU and attempted to wire in the VTEC. After about an hour or so, it was all plugged in and the vehicle started right up! There is still this pronounced mechanical knock during 2.2k plus rpm's so whatever damage was done to this motor during its previous duration of use with everything all jacked up is already done. Just wish I could have gotten to it sooner my last F22B1 ran great for having 233k miles, so we'll see how far this one goes until a new motor is in order. Thank you all for your help! This has been quite the adventure/mechanical enlightenment

youngboiCD7

You didn't really have to change the harness you could just wired the VTEC and pressure switch to the ecu

Ma2kreis

This is the route I should have taken from the beginning but seeing as though this engine ran horribly with the previous owners frankenstein engine swap in, I wanted to make a complete F22B1 swap over. The current setup is working for the moment, but something in either in the block or the head is gonna need replacing :\