PowerZree

I'm checking various issues with hesitation on idle. Or rough idle. When it gets warmed up after 6 minutes. Similar to this, but not 100% certain, it's not an extreme idle where it loops extremely up and down.



I have checked the Idle air control valve. (I took it out and cleaned it (it wasn't that dirty, but I had it tested to see if the mechanism opens and closes. And it does.)

I drained and refilled the coolant.
I tried seafoam. (through oil, a vacuum hose, and gas tank)
I checked for vacuum leaks.
Next I wanted to check the honda codes. Previously I unplugged the idle air control valve and started it up to see what happened. And that check light went on. I reconnected and I started it.
So when I checked the honda codes. That code came up (no other codes came up). So I disconnected my battery for 5 minutes to reset the code. So now when I check the codes.
The Check engine light stays on solid. (does that mean there are no codes? Or does that mean it's code 0?)
What does the diagnostic code do to display code 0? And what does the diagnostic code to display no codes?

I'm confused, when checking the honda codes with a pin. I have no idea what is displayed for no codes? There is no "check engine light coming on" is that code 0?
Or there is a check engine light on, that stays solid?

Update, based on my research. When it stays solid there is no code.

The next thing I want to check is, using this "Complete Engine Treatment" from Lucas, or (16 Fluid ounces) 473 mL or Gumout Fuel injector cleaner at $2.74 at 6 ounces.
My problem is similar to another guy's problem on a youtube video. And he recommened the Gumout Fuel injector cleaner through through a full tank of premium (93 or 95 octane).

But I did my research on this very forum with people saying this "You're an idiot. Your car is not faster....period. Putting higher octane in a car that does not require it, will actually HURT performance. Dynos have proven it. Stop using you butt dyno to spread pompous information like the above."

What should I do? Which one should I try, and should I try the higher octane or the normal octane with what fuel injector cleaner? Any suggestions?

PowerZree

Alright update on this:

Last week I asked for advice on this from a tech. He said it could be a bad fuel injector.
I looked at the honda accord automotive repair manual. And it outlined a troubleshoot guide for this. First thing I did, was loosen the clips on the injectors. Then I took off two 10 mm nuts for the power harness. When the car was running. I unplugged them one by one. For each one there was an idle change, except one.

So I thought it might be a fuel injector. If you take a screw driver you can hear them click. There was no way for me at the time to check if it was a failure of the power harness. But anyways, I got a fuel injector from a salvage yard. I cleaned it. And I switched that out. No change. Finally, I decided without changing the firing order. I changed a spark plug wire. To the one were the idle wasn't working. To another one. Next I checked the power on that one. Finally there was a change. And you guessed it, where I switched out the spark plug wire to another cylinder. That one is were there was no change.

So I figured out what spark plug wire it was. Since I couldn't buy them individually. I decided to order a couple of different sets. I finally switched the bad one out with the good. And now it's working. No rough idle anywhere to be found.

Only thing is after I changed the injector. For some reason, when I put the key in the car and put it in a on position. And wait for a while. Both the battery and the oil icons stay light up. When I start the car they go away.

Now I had the battery replaced because it was no good. And that was under warranty. I had the starter and the alternator checked at a part store. And they were both good. I had the oil changed as well. They still show up. But not when I'm driving. I don't know what the cause is, or if I should worry. But nothing in my troubleshoot manual states anything much about this. It only states that if it's running, it should be checked. Who knows. But the car is running really good.

Any advice on this? Would be much appreciated...