5rivers

Hi folks,
I am trying to isolate a few electrical issues with my fuel pump. There is power to the sending unit when I turn the ignition to the number 2 position, but none to the fuel pump. Is this normal? Do I need to be cranking the motor for power to get to the fuel pump? The reason for the wiring diagram is this - there are two wires going to the fuel pump, one is black, the other black and yellow. The black wire I presume to be a ground; is the blk/yell wire the wire that carries the power to the pump when the car is cranked? The sending unit has three wires going to it, one of which carries almost 12 volts, another that has about 3 volts, and then a blk/yell wire. Before I drop the tank, I want to make sure the wires are the right ones. The blk wires from both the sending unit and fuel pump are grounded. It is possible that I need to install a new pump, that might account for the car turning over but not starting. Appreciate your replies and help!

poorman212

When the key is furst turned from 0 to II there should be power to the pump for about 2 seconds, this primes the pump.

I would re-test and see if you are getting power to the pump in those few seconds before dropping the tank.

Yes the fuel pump in these do go bad but IMHO not near as often as the main relay.

5rivers

Hey Poorman212, thanks for your reply!
It is also possible that the plug/connector for the fuel pump is toast. Not sure how that could happen, but here's my situation. I replaced the brake lines and ended up having to replace the fuel lines as well. In order to actually reach the brake line connections below the master cylinder I removed the throttle body which also created some space to remove and install newer fuel lines. When it was time to start up the car, it cranked and cranked but would not catch. The aftermarket main relay was replaced under warranty, and then installed a new master cylinder. Now the car cranks but does not catch. Realized I had two fuel lines mixed up - a vacuum line and the return line. Fixed that problem. Car still does not start. Installed a spare fuel pump, car still does not start. After this the door closing sensor for rear passenger door would not go off, replaced that with a used sensor, car still does not start. Fuel filter hose installed incorrectly, that may have accounted for no fuel in the fuel rail. Fixed that, still no fuel in fuel rail after cleaning the rail inside and out, and car still does not start! Even cleaned out the fuel injector holes - what a mess those were. Was not hearing any priming of the fuel pump, until this morning, then noticed a leak in main fuel line. Car almost started, but did not. Cycled through the on to position II on ignition switch a number of times x 12, but still not hearing any priming of the fuel pump. Jiggled the key a few times, every once out of 12 times I could hear the priming when I turned key to position II on ignition switch, and the CEL would come on. A few months ago, I replaced the ignition switch connector, car started then, but still now only cranks after all of the above. I did notice last night the negative ground battery cable was about 50% frayed at the motor connection. About to replace that cable. I am thinking that maybe the plug/connector to the fuel pump is not good, and might replace that with another used plug. Any suggestions on what I should attempt next would be welcomed and appreciated. Thanks!

5rivers

I forgot to mention that when the CEL came on, I could hear some clicking noises from the dash area and the speedometer was going haywire, bouncing around from 0 to 60 then up to 100 back to 20 then up to 40. Never witnessed that before. Now there are no noises at all, nothing from the fuel pump, no CEL and no speedometer movement. Could the frayed negative ground cable be part of the problem? Or should I be looking at the main relay again? In addition, when I relieve the fuel pressure by opening the gas cap, I do not hear any pressure relief sounds - makes sense given that there is no fuel pump action. But even when fuel made its way to the fuel filter and I opened the gas cap to relieve the pressure, there was no indication then of pressure relief. I am wondering if there are sensors I should be looking at as well. Again, I appreciate your insight and replies!

poorman212

If I'm following this correctly, sounds like you removed the while plenum. If so there is a very important ground on the drivers end of the plenum - G101.

Working from a different computer right now - don't ask - so I don't have all of my normal car pic's/manuals, ect.......do a search for g101 on a 5th gen Accord and you will find a pic of the location. Be sure it is connected, clean and tight.

5rivers

Hey poorman212, thanks for your suggestion - did tighten G101 a little, and ended up having to extract the ignition switch and key collar. Parts of the collar that are supposed to remain stationary were not - so I worked on that a bit. After reinstalling the ignition switch and key collar, reattaching the battery, I turned the key to the num 2 position and could hear the fuel pump priming! What great excitement that was!! After starting the car, I discovered a few compression fittings on the fuel lines that I had installed needed tightening. Appreciate your replies and insight! Be well.