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Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Cam wasn't seized after all

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Old 03-25-2012, 08:10 PM
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Default Cam wasn't seized after all

See my earlier post for the history on this... https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/did-i-partially-almost-seize-my-engine-3038431/

Thought I had seized the cam (on my 95 Accord LX) but today I removed the valve cover only to find NO damage and the timing belt was INTACT (thought I had heard it snap last time engine stopped). I can turn the motor by hand (18in breaker bar turning crankshaft pulley). The timing marks (TDC) on both crank pulley and cam pulley line up fine so it appears the belt hasn't jumped either. However, I turned the engine by hand with spark plugs in which surprised me. I took the plugs out and pulled the ignition wire so I could crank the motor and check compression on each cylinder. I only get 90psi on each but they are ALL within 3lbs of each other. Maybe the car did overheat (despite new coolant sensors, temp gauge never went hot) and the head warped? Since nothing was seized, I put everything back together and started the car. It only runs for 3 or 4 seconds and then dies.

Any thoughts on what to check next? Thx
Old 03-26-2012, 07:32 PM
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Default Re: Cam wasn't seized after all

This certainly sounds bizarre. You're positive timing is correct? I had problems with my lower timing cover being warped and had to find TDC on cylinder 1 manually and mark it. I've also had problems lining up the cam marks but maybe that's just me. I would double double check the timing and then do a leak down test. Something must be going on with the valves allowing compression to get by, or I think less likely it could be a head gasket issue.
Old 03-27-2012, 01:16 AM
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Default Re: Cam wasn't seized after all

Originally Posted by mem94043
I only get 90psi on each but they are ALL within 3lbs of each other.
The correct way to check compression PSI on an engine is when it is fully warmed up and the throttle is held at WOT.

You can check if the timing is correct by lining up the white dot on the crank with the timing pointer. Remove the dist cap and verify that the rotor is pointing at #1 terminal position.
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