nickmcpher

I have been having an odd issue with starting my 94 accord.

Sometimes, when I turn the key over the engine light won't go off, and the fuel pump does not come on to pressure the lines. If I turn over the car won't start.

I find unplugging the ignition coil for 5 minutes, then plugging back in usually fixes the problem.

Also, if the car is left to sit for an hour or so it will fire right up.

I'm under the impression that if there is no spark the fuel pump won't come on, and I did have issues with missing etc, and replaced some ignition parts

Any suggestions.

I've replaced:
Distributor cap and rotor, ignition wires, Ignition coil.

P_Adams

There is a re-occurring problem that has been with us for years; the main relay. This nasty bit of electronic mayhem has the dubious distinction of controlling power to two components: The Fuel Pump and also the ECM (Engine control module). Thus the no pressure / engine light staying on.
Really, this thing has a failure rate which would rival early Lucas examples (read that as "bad")
It's caused by poor / degraded solder joints which over time fail (ok, I've said it).
Although it's possible to fail at any time, it usually shows up during hot sultry weather where the car's interior temps go thru the roof (figuratively). Sometimes just opening the door can drop temps enough to miraculously get it working.

I'd look there first.
There's a thread in the FAQ section at the beginning of this sub-forum which will give you all manner of info.

P

nickmcpher

I have heard many problems with all of the following...
main relay,
ignition switch,
and igniter

By description of the problem, how can we tell which of the 3 it is?

What should I try first?

Thank you,

Nick

phootbag

No fuel... Likely main relay failure.

nickmcpher

Ok, I have since removed the main relay, (which was on the right side of the steering column way up underneath.

As per another website: I've desoldered using a desoldering braid, and re-soldered all joints.

I am going to test the relay soon, and let you know the outcome of this.

If not I will purchase a new one and see if that helps.

Thanks again for all the info.

Nick

Peter House

I know this is an older thread but it lead me to my resolution.

The Main Relay has bad solder joints. I am enclosing close up pictures for all who are interested.

The problem was as described earlier in the thread.

Removing the most of the old solder and re-soldering should solve the problem.

The problem is solved. In retrospect, another unnoticed problem was also solved. Occasionally the car would stutter and lose oomph but not die. This was the Main Relay starving the Fuel Pump for power and this is no longer happening.

Have Fun!

Arrow points to fracture ring where the solder joint is fracturing.




Arrow points to fracture ring where the solder joint has fractured. This is the worst joint on the circuit board and as far as I can determine is the point of failure.




Arrow points to fracture ring where the solder joint has fractured. This joint is near to complete fracture and will soon be a point of failure although the other fracture has already caused complete failure.




Peter