Re: I'm too scared to do an oil change. (R1Moon)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by R1Moon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What is the purpose of going to 10w30 in the winter on motors over 100,000 miles, that does make any since to me. Regular motor oil's viscosity break down isn't until about 20,000 miles and full synthetic viscosity break down isn't until about 50,000 miles. The reason your supposed to change your oil as often as needed is that the filter can't trap anymore dirt and etc. and it starts cycling back through the engine. So I'm not sure what changing to a heaver weight oil in the winter is going to do.</TD></TR></TABLE>

you got it backwards. people switch to 10w-30 (thicker oil) during summer so it doesnt become too thin due to the heat. that is a outdated and old trick people useto do with carb'd engines with loose tolerances. it is uneccesary to do that now a days with modern engines with their tight tolerances, especially a stock one.

Re: I'm too scared to do an oil change. (pos_cd5)
 

remember to take your time, dont overlook/forget anything. you'll be glad you did it yourself

So my 95 accord engine doesnt need 10w30 and I should use 5w30 year round? I'm still trying to determine what motor oil I should use. Forget mobil1 synthetic and go with Castrol high mileage? How often should my oil changes be? 3000 miles? Do I need to replace seal washers every time I do an oil change?

Re: (chrisdab)
 

I use 5w30 year round.
I don't use any special synthetic oil.
I replace my oil every 3000 miles.
I replace my oil filter every oil change.
I replace my crush ring every oil change.

I buy a case of oil, oil filters and crush rings at Honda. I spend I think $60-70 and that lasts me 4 oil changes.

I really think you are making this into something harder than it needs to be.

lol

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use 5w30 year round.
I don't use any special synthetic oil.
I replace my oil every 3000 miles.
I replace my oil filter every oil change.
I replace my crush ring every oil change.

I buy a case of oil, oil filters and crush rings at Honda. I spend I think $60-70 and that lasts me 4 oil changes.

I really think you are making this into something harder than it needs to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

what crush rings? ive never replaced no such thing https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emdgust.gif and i dont leak (i think)

also you should change your sig to im back to accords, not coming back, its been the same sig since i joined

Re: (361 accord)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what crush rings? ive never replaced no such thing https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emdgust.gif and i dont leak (i think)</TD></TR></TABLE>

the one for the oil drain plug.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 361 accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also you should change your sig to im back to accords, not coming back, its been the same sig since i joined</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, I do need to change it but not for that reason.

See, some know me from back when I had my Black 1995 Accord EX Sedan. I was involved in an accident, my fault, which lead to me totaling the car. I have been driving a Civic since then. Last year though, I got involved with an old member from here that has there own website, he was importing cars from Japan as well. He found a loop hole that made it easy to get 5th gen sedans/wagons in the US and registered legally. So, you can see where this is going. I decided to order a 5th Gen OBD1 Sedan SiR from him. Well, long story short, our contract has expired and he wasn't able to find the car I wanted. He also had business problems with partners and that which has caused him to close the business. So I'm currently waiting for my deposit back then I'll get another car. So thats why my sig reads as it does. Even though I haven't had an Accord in almost 4 years I've always continued to participate in the Accord forum on a regular basis https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif This is how I got to be a mod here.

I'll make it a point to change my sig soon

sorry for the off topic, back on topic https://honda-tech.com/forums/images/smilies/emthup.gif

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

i used lucas with about 4.5 quarts in my 140k 93 maxima to stop the broken rocker pivot (sits atop the cylinder to regulate explosions). it worked like a charm.
made the engine sound like new for about 60 days. worth the extra 3 or 4 bux definitely.

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really think you are making this into something harder than it needs to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

x2

Re: I'm too scared to do an oil change. (361 accord)
 

Most of the manuals for the new engines spec 5-30 for "year round" unless you have hot summers. 10-30 is heavier oil-you want heavier oil as the temp goes up. One poster recommended 10-40, even heavier. You could use this on a very old engine that "leaks" oil past the rings/guides/seals in hot weather. The heavier oil has a hard time getting around the "leakage" areas.

As an example, my two newest cars recommend 5-30, but state 10-30 is alright for summer temps. Last I checked these are noted as 5W-30 and 10W-30 weights.

The important thing is to use the correct oil for the temperature. "5" for winter, "10" for summer. A 5-30 oil is lighter than 10-30 for the bottom-end number, for cold temps. Aside from this, I am not sure I understand the misunderstanding?

Many of the Honda engines use a "crush" washer under the drain-bolt. Some of the OEM Honda filters have this in the box with the oil-filter, "kitted" for the lube-techs in the lube-bays. This is also true of my Toyota oil-filter.

You may have never noticed it because when you bought the car the original owner was using an aftermarket filter, and I have never seen an aftermarket filter come with the crush-washer.

My Honda, Toyota and Nissan all use a crush-washer. If you need them to use with AM filters, they cost about $.05 at the dealer, buy 10-15 and throw them in your tool box. And the bolt will often NOT leak w/o the washer. For all of $.05 I am not going to test it.

As far as this post goes, I am out of here. Every single manual I have ever read recommends increasing oil-weights slightly for high summer-temp driving or towing, as do all of my owner's manuals, I am not just pulling this out of my ass, it's your decision based on your summer temps. Every single study has shown that oil-additives are questionable as to whether they work.

Using expensive synthetics in an older engine will not magically rebuild the engine, and might cause problems. Crush-washers are used on MANY pan-bolts these days to insure zero leakage at the bolt, whether you use one or not depends on your car and whether you are willing to gamble for all of $.05. All three of my Japanese engines use them.

Most of all this is simple common-sense, and spending hours debating oils or agonizing over an oil-change is a waste of time. I run a minimum of 150K miles on my engines before rebuilding them or selling the car. I follow the manufacturer's recommendations for oil-weights, but then again I READ the owner's manuals and study the shop-manuals for procedures and fluids. All of the items "debated" hers are covered in shop-manuals. One poster stated they did not buy a shop-manual because "they are too expensive". Around $22 for a Haynes? $75 for the BEST manual for Hondas, the Helms?

Once again the problem may be we have a crowd that has never read their owner's manuals, and does not own a shop-manual specific to their car. Aside from making a living, maintaining a good size home/lot, and finishing the building of my shop so I can rebuild the engine in my '94 this winter, I really don't have the time to waste here debating oils or posting 20 pages of instructions, with pix, as to getting an oil-change done. I am not upset with the original question. I post information to help people, not to enter debates on the best way to "clean out belly-botton lint". Wrenchy


Modified by wrenchy at 2:21 PM 7/24/2007

Re: I'm too scared to do an oil change. (wrenchy)
 

blah blah blah. quite worrying and just get your hands dirty, you'll feel better in the end either way.

Re: (TouringAccord)
 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I use 5w30 year round.
I don't use any special synthetic oil.
I replace my oil every 3000 miles.
I replace my oil filter every oil change.
I replace my crush ring every oil change.

I buy a case of oil, oil filters and crush rings at Honda. I spend I think $60-70 and that lasts me 4 oil changes.

I really think you are making this into something harder than it needs to be.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, oil changes are very simple. Don't listen to anyone trying to complicate it. Just follow TouringAccord's advice and you'll be just fine.

TouringAccord: The only thing I disagree with is the no synthetic oil comment. I use it in every vehicle I have. I love it, it works great and it tastes great!

Re: (FarinaMotorsports)
 

wrenchy just gave the longest answer to the simplest question i have ever seen in the accord forum. haha. and half the stuff he said was answered more than twice already https://honda-tech.com/forums/images...es/emdgust.gif

Ya I think my questions have been answered enough. Thanks everyone