hondaccord

I just got my 97 honda accord about 6 months ago. I bought it with some problems, but got it cheep. I am down to one last prob., that I just can't figgure out. what is happening is that once the car gets up to normal operating temp. it starts to hesitate.(sorry spelling sus) now this is only when I am light or driveing around normaly. if I put the pedle the all the way down it takes of and the prob dissapers till I let off agian. another way to stop it is while rolling with the jerking to switch the key to the ascory, then back on and drop it in gear.( by the way it is a standered.) other times while haveing the problem, I'll stoped at a red light, and trying not to burn out, or launch in second theproblem is gone on take off. I do have one code which is the Evap purg flow. I replaced the charcoal contanister and the purg valve thats connected, but it still happenes. I was thinking that it might be the release bareing, but it seems like a electrical prob., just because I can turn the car off then back on and it will drive fine for a while.
A side not, it is a f22b2 with short ram, bypassed fast idel thermoal(but was giveing the prob with it), port and polished head, 4-2 headers, 2-1 down pipe, high flow cat, custom 2&3/4" exaughst, high flow muffler(yet had to but a silencer in or have the car impounded),2" drop, and finaly a Jet V-force that has been disconected so I can trouble shoot this prob.
so it feels like a mid range delivery problem(not rpm, but throtal postion) that isn't present till the car is at normal operating temp, but not at idel, full on, or all the time. I have tried three differant tps's, that all omed out right.
so can any one help is there something I can test, adjust, or cahnge out that might fix this problem? and has anyone delt with this? the car has 190k on it but is still fast, and smoth, but I just don't know what to do now.
please help........

hondatim

Does it seem to do it most of the time at light throttle around 1800-2400 rpm? You may have an EGR issue with the ports being plugged but I would need more info to help diagnose your issue.

YeuEmMaiMai

you can clean the egr yourself by removing the fuel rail and access cover. using brake cleaner on the cover works well and using a pipe cleaner along with some HD intake cleaner on the ports works well. you can drill out the rivits and replace with some self tapping 10mm screws

hondaccord

sorry I couldn't answer last night but I am still on the trial. Can I skip that, I mean only five comments. damn.

anywho, it starts doing it suddunly with out warning, the same way it stops. When it is acting up though, it will still happen at 3,500 or any were in the rpm range, as long as I am light on the pedal. Also if I go wot, (while haveing the problem, otherwise it takes off like normal) then it jurks hard twice or so and then takes off with out a sysmption till I let off.

I will go ahead and save the rest of my comments for the 24 hours so I can describe any other info you need just ask and I will be happy to answer.

hondaccord

ok so I cleaned the ports. none were completly cloged, but there was a big chunck of gunk in the primary runner. So any who cleaned it all out. Yes it did run smoother, but yeah, still had the problem. It was only once aduring the test drive after, but I know it didn't work. any who thanks for those suggestions on the egr, is there any others? Maybe the evap purg valve, or the two way check valve? I only think this is because the code that the comes up every time I clear it is the evap purg flow fault. if there is any other information anyone would like to get on this problem just ask. thanks

hondaccord

still can't figure this out.my car must be possed. I wish that it would just throw the code of what the problem is. Stupied obd2 leading me now were. Well I guses I will change the control, and two way check valve. but I do have to pull the tank, so does any one know anything about a walbro 255lph fuel pumps? are they any good?

hondaccord

oh something I forgot to mention, but think is unrelated, is that when I floor it teh tach will jump. some times as little as 300 rpm, all the way up to 3,000rpm. I was thinking that that would be the vss, but had a freind thats a tech for toy-cars-ota said the needel just might need a tuch of grafiet. so yeah any oppions? and do you all think that if it is the vss that could be part of the problem?

Ross 2.0

you may have a bad igniter (in the distributor) that controls the coil and the tach. So it could be that, take the distributor cap off, rotor button and dust shield and it will be sitting near the bottom, it's a little box with wires, looks kinds like a pack of matches.
If you replace it it's going to be expensive (BUY THE PART FROM HONDA!!) But it won't die again.

hondaccord

cool I will do the test on it that I saw in my haynes book after work today thamks.

hondaccord

ok I replaced it, the icm that is. No go. damn the car does start up easier, but the problem did show it's ugly face. also the tech still jumps when I floor it. I think I am going to try a new vss next. any one got any other susgestions? This, I would have to say is the hardest problem I have ever had to dignose still cant spell. I do love my car though so it is well worht the effort. o once agian any help is veary much appriciated.

hondatim

The vehicle speed sensor has nothing to do with the tachometer. So don't waste your money on purchasing a new VSS.

hondaccord

good to go I wouln't then. I just tested the fuel pump relay. It was good. I also just got a high flow fuel pump, but don't know if thats going to help. I have been thinking for quiet awhile that the pump might be the problem. I did find out after my friend hooked up the car at valvoline, that the pump was only running at 11% at idle. he was saying that it should be running at about 15% during idle. He also said that the pump was probably going. so now does anyone think that it might be the pump? I did just reach 190k never rebulit. and it does seem like the larger injectors and jet v-force system that rudy(friend that I bought that accord from) would of put a lot more stress on the pump. well any who I don't have the tools to drain the tank so it will be another week befor I change the pump out.

hondaccord

now my first o2 sensour is throwing a code, I haven't noticed the problem senice. but after I got the pump, which I still waitting to do, I turned my fuel puressure regulator all the way up. I think it is probably just running hella rich any thoughts?

hondaccord

ok so just to finish this post. I replaced the fuel pump with a walbro 255lph pump, and othere then rushing the end and mixing up the return, and feed lines, it went well. yes I completly flooded the engen, and was pukeing gas out the charcoal contanister. fixed that, and it runs great now, other than the damn o2 heater malfunction.