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How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

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Old 04-18-2012, 09:56 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Originally Posted by specialone70
i just replaced my slave cylinder too, and i didnt need to get into the pedals...
you shouldnt have to with the slave cylinder as it is located nowhere close to the pedals, it is located however very close to your transmition, if im not mistaken its always attached to it, the master cylinder however is attached very nicelly to the back of your clutch pedal and is connected to your slave cylinder by a fair length of hydralic line.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-m5F...eature=related
this video gives you the methods for removing and replacing both the master and slave cylinders, was a great help to me when i was doing mine

Last edited by shadowman514; 04-20-2012 at 06:27 PM. Reason: added link
Old 05-29-2012, 09:30 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

I replaced my slave and master today. I'm getting fluid to the master and slave (I checked the master independently of the slave, then both together.) I've bled the entire system via the bleeder valve on the slave numerous times...I'd say 20-30 times, making sure not to allow any air back in when I let the pedal up. I'm still in the same boat I was in when my car failed me...the clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays. Have I just not bled the system enough? There's a steady stream of brake fluid coming from the bleeder valve when I open it. It doesn't spit and sputter as though there's air in the line. Any ideas/suggestions on what to do/what may be the problem? Got frustrated with it and decided to let it sit overnight. Thanks!
Old 05-31-2012, 08:39 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Originally Posted by tsgwin
I replaced my slave and master today. I'm getting fluid to the master and slave (I checked the master independently of the slave, then both together.) I've bled the entire system via the bleeder valve on the slave numerous times...I'd say 20-30 times, making sure not to allow any air back in when I let the pedal up. I'm still in the same boat I was in when my car failed me...the clutch pedal goes to the floor and stays. Have I just not bled the system enough? There's a steady stream of brake fluid coming from the bleeder valve when I open it. It doesn't spit and sputter as though there's air in the line. Any ideas/suggestions on what to do/what may be the problem? Got frustrated with it and decided to let it sit overnight. Thanks!
Check your clutch hose! I had one go bad on a prelude, the hose will be mounted above the hard line before the slave. sometimes they are hard to see or get to.
Old 08-03-2012, 02:37 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

So I just installed a new master and slave and can't get it to bleed.. At all.. Fluid in the reservoir hasn't even moved after trying to bleed for 100's of cycles.. Wouldn't it eventually build up pressure so I'd at least see a leak in a hose if that's the issue? Wondering if I got a bad unit from the start..? But which one??
Old 01-17-2013, 04:30 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

How can you tell if the master cylinder is bad? A mechanic looked on my brother's car, and saw dampness in the middle of his floor mat and said it was the master cylinder. He had taken the mat out in snow, and so it could have been we from that. Is there another way he can check to find out if the master cylinder is bad?
Old 01-17-2013, 07:31 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

is the pedal not holding pressure?

You can also look where the pedal is to see if there's traces of brake fluid running down the firewall.
Old 02-18-2014, 11:40 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

I have a new unique clutch hydraulic issue. Basically the clutch was fine for years working fine but the reservoir hose to the master was leaking. So I took the time to replace it out of preventative maintenance. The shop didn't flush the old fluid so it was black fluid in the system. So I took it back and they flushed out the fluid. Short time after that the clutch slave began to slowly push out less and less. Now it only pushes out 1/2 way and disengages the clutch half way after bleeding.

Is it possible the clutch damper could be at fault? I'm going to try and run a braided male to female from the master to the slave to eliminate them as possible concerns.

Now the Honda Dealership says I need a clutch, but that's not addressing the clutch slave only pushing out 1/2 way. To me it appears there is still a hydraulic clutch issue which could be in the damper on the transmission or that other connection.

Thanks
Old 04-16-2016, 12:08 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

I know this is an old thread, but folks who want to bleed their own brakes can do it the easy way. First, you need an old style oil can. Fit a length of hose over the nipple that you will then run to the slave cylinder's bleeder valve. Fill the oil can with your clutch fluid. Open the bleeder, keep pumping that oil can until it pushes all of the air up and out of the line and until it fills the master cylinder reservoir. Close the bleeder valve and you're done.
Old 04-16-2016, 12:10 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

I actually meant "clutch". Sorry!
Old 04-17-2016, 11:00 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Originally Posted by madisonhack
I know this is an old thread, but folks who want to bleed their own brakes can do it the easy way. First, you need an old style oil can. Fit a length of hose over the nipple that you will then run to the slave cylinder's bleeder valve. Fill the oil can with your clutch fluid. Open the bleeder, keep pumping that oil can until it pushes all of the air up and out of the line and until it fills the master cylinder reservoir. Close the bleeder valve and you're done.
Thats what I did as well quite some time ago. Worked great, just need to make sure the oil can has enough capacity for the amount of brake/clutch fluid you'll need. The guy at O'Reillys gave me a couple feet of hose for free that fit on the oil can.


Air naturally wants to go up, so instead of forcing it down when bleeding the clutch like normal, forcing the fluid in from the bottom (slave cylinder) top the top, ensures that no air is in the line whatsoever.
Old 05-15-2018, 09:28 PM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Damn what wrench did you use to get the line nut off? Im using a 12mm line nut wrench but god damn its so ****** tight lol you made this look so easy
Old 05-16-2018, 12:20 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Originally Posted by Lokomaikai
Damn what wrench did you use to get the line nut off? Im using a 12mm line nut wrench but god damn its so ****** tight lol you made this look so easy
it should be a 10mm head wrench but you need to use flare wrenches on hard lines or you will strip the head

or you can use crows feet wrenches, but again you want to use the flared type
Old 07-05-2018, 02:17 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Hi, How much of Honda dot3 do I need to filler up the system after overhaul, i mean changing that master and slave cylinders.
thanks.
Old 07-20-2019, 11:17 AM
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Default Re: How to: Replace Master Cylinder (5 speeds only)

Originally Posted by nus_dogg
Nice write-up!
Hey thanks for that. I’m kinda stuck though after I replaced my clutch master cylinder. The slave cylinder bleeder valve is wedged between a immovable object and the fluid line. Could I just remove the entire slave cylinder with the fluid line still attached and then bleed the line. Otherwise I can’t open and close the bleeder valve.
Old 07-20-2019, 11:19 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

Originally Posted by bigsnorlax
Im doing some routine maintenance and though i would try to make a write up and hopefully show others how this is done.

1. first i opened my bleeder valve and pumped the clutch to dispose of all the fluid into a container.

2. Next Crawl under your dash (i layed my seat back and layed on my back lookin up) and follow the linkage that is on your clutch pedal, u should come across a codder pin as shown circled in red. mine was bent around the rod it runs through but i just straightened it up and removed the pin, then slide out the rod ( also circled), which unattaches the master cylinder push rod thing to the clutch pedal.

3. Now u want to remove your fluid resevoir as it gets in your way, simple enough ill let u figure that out, and look down at the master cylinder attached to the fire wall. Circled in red is the pressure line u have to loosen and remove, and in green is the fluid feed line that runs from the resevoir to the master cylinder. loosen the hose clamps and remove as well.

4. Lastly, crawl back under your dash (sucks i know) and remove the bolts threaded onto the studs of the master cylinder that run through the firewall, in the picture they are circled in blue, the one on the top left is fairly awkward to get to but doable.

5. Now pull out the whole assembly from the engine bay, to install it goes the same as disassembly, make sure your hose clamps are good and tight, and make sure to bleed the clutch line and remove all air bubbles when done.
My bleeder valve is wedged between a metal wall and the fluid line in my slave cylinder. Could I just remove the entire slave cylinder so I can open up the bleeder valve?
Old 02-21-2020, 10:37 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

How do I change the clutch master cylinder on a 1998 Honda Accord if the slave cylinder line was near the fire wall but the one im being showed the cylinder line is toward the front of the car and the fluid line is at the fire wall
Old 02-21-2020, 10:40 AM
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Default Re: How-To: Replace Clutch Master Cylinder

How do I change the clutch master cylinder on a 1998 Honda Accord if the slave cylinder line was near the fire wall but the one im being showed the cylinder line is toward the front of the car and the fluid line is at the fire wall
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