holmesnmanny

There is a vacuum hose that goes from the battery area to the throttle body. Make sure there is no leak in that line somewhere. Also, check your injectors for a leak at the plastic o-ring where it meets the intake manifold. I would just buy a new pcv valve since it's only 3 bucks just for the hell of it. When checking for leaks I use a spray bottle of just plain water with it on spray rather than squirt and I can usually find any vacuum leak. I would check everywhere again including hoses. There could be a vacuum hose with a leak somewhere.

Make sure you didn't lose an o-ring for the iacv and fitv. That could cause a leak. Also, I would pick up a used iacv off ebay or something and see if that is the problem. I had a bad iacv that I screwed up by spraying carb cleaner in it with it hot as hell and it ruined the seals.

The cruise control hose that goes into the frame is normal. Just plug it back in.

edogmb

All I noticed in that area were metal coolant lines... I'm pretty sure there are no vacuum lines near my battery area, the EGR probably being the closest.

edogmb

FINALLY!!! SOME PROGRESS!!!

I just want to update here...

With all vacuum lines and leak locations looked at... a new FITV, a used IACV from ebay, new plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, alternator, power steering belt, coolant expansion tank, gas cap, master cylinder, upper rad. hose, O2 sensor, coolant temp sensor, (all) trans/engine mounts...also new egr, intake manifold, intake plenum, throttle body, oil pan, and valve cover gaskets...
my car still had high idle. The car ran very good once in drive. So MAP sensor was doubtful to me, and I already blocked off the Air Boost Valve. I resorted back to the throttle body bypass holes...
After alot of reading and tests I found that the upper port in the throttle body leading to the electronic idle air control valve (IACV) CAN BE ADJUSTED(!!!) using the throttle body idle screw. The bottom port is exclusively for the Fast Idle Thermo Valve (FITV).
I tried blocking the FITV at the valve with a plate and it didn't work, but when I tried blocking the port with my finger, the engine cut right out. The upper port was just letting a little air through the whole time and didn't have any effect when blocked. My engine was definitely warm enough and my FITV was working as it could be observed when unbolted with the plenum blocked. Remembering that I had the idle screw tightened I loosened it enough to get it to idle with the FITV port blocked...progress!
I ended up blocking off the FITV port between the throttle body and plenum. With the throttle body back on I reset the base idle. Although my idle is a bit off...and high, it is drivable now! I idle at ~800-850rpms in gear and 1100-1300 in park. Could still be better, but I'm getting there... I just can't figure out why the FITV would still have that much bypass through the throttle body port with everything appearing to function as it should and the car warm??? Is there a valve or anything inside the intake manifold or the TB? Blocking it off works for now but I'd like to get to the bottom of it one of these days...besides, I'm sure theres some air getting thru.

phootbag

If I were getting paid to work on your car, came to you and told you what you just said and called it "progress", what would you say to me?

mongol

I found and isolated what i beleive is my vaccum leak to the duct next to the battery that faces upward towards engine tieing into aircleaner housing and air intake duct i sparyed the whole duct with brake cleaner and no change in surging but when i sprayed into duct surging went away.what do i check next or what can it be

holmesnmanny

Make a video of what youre saying is happening.

mongol

ok i will try but basically started with 14 code changed new iacv surging continued and surging begins after warmup once engine is turned off check engine light goes away until surging starts again then it it lights up again