The_Todd

Alright so 7 hours later my car now only has painted calipers (black) and new brake fluid .

My intention today was to remove my old rotors/pads and replace them with brembo blanks and axxis pads.

First things first:

I loosened the bottom caliper bolt and swung the caliper top plate up to remove the pads. Then removed the caliper all together (those things were a BITCH to get off).

Well in between rainstorms I finally got it down to tackle the hub bolts. Now in my chiltons it says I need to remove the 4 bolts behind the hub connecting the hub to the steering knuckle.

Pics:





Do these HAVE to come off; if they do what tool? in order to get these 4 bolts off:



I tried my impact gun and no dice. I then hosed it down with some easy-off...no dice. I then decided to give up for the day and put everything back on and possibly try in the morning or take it to my local firestons/midas etc to have them put the rotors on.

Any recommendations??

jbiggsSE

Randomly idiotic possible suggestion of the day : Perhaps theyre threaded the opposite direction? For rotational issues or something? I dunno, sorry. LOL

bodiez

Sometimes the impact gun isnt the best thing to use. Try a socket wrench with a long pipe on the end for torque. Should work excellent.

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bodiez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sometimes the impact gun isnt the best thing to use. Try a socket wrench with a long pipe on the end for torque. Should work excellent.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well when the sun set I opted to start packing up my crap instead of getting out the breaker bar. Do those inner bolts have to come off is my main question (pic 1 and 2).

DIYaccord

to take off the front rotors...you have to have the hub assembly pressed out :thumbsdown: I know, it sucks...I did it too

and yes, you do have to remove those four bolts AND the axle nut


take it to firestone/midas (I brought my whole knuckle assemblys to them and they did both sides for $30)

The_Todd

axle nut? Could you be more specific. Are you talking about the main nut on the front side of the rotor (pic 3) ?

What tool is needed to take off those 4 inside bolts...I tried a regular wrench (metric) and it didn't come anywhere close to working. The cv boot/axle gets in the fawking way. Is it easy to remove?

DIYaccord

yes, that Big 36mm axle nut

they are pretty small (little area to grip) but I just used a breaker bar and metric socket (forget the size) for those bolts...maybe you'res are stripped?

The_Todd

See I didn't get out a breaker bar...I am doing this by myself and it was getting late. I think only 1 of the nuts on the hub is stripped; everything else looked fine.

QUESTION: What tool is used to take off the 4 bolts on the back of the hub/rotor(pic 1 and 2).

-RedneckDave-

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
QUESTION: What tool is used to take off the 4 bolts on the back of the hub/rotor(pic 1 and 2).</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the back bolts you need a 12 point 12mm or 13mm (that is what they look like) and use a breaker bar. For the front ones I would use a socket on a breaker bar and put a length of black pipe on there for extra leverage. I have a 3' pipe and a 6' pipe that is use to add onto my breaker bar. I got mine from Lowes where I work in the plumbing department. When you get it all apart you have to have the hub press out. It is not bad if you have a shop press but if you don't then take it to a shop and have them press them out. They should do it for pretty cheap. Pm me if you need help. Good luck.

The_Todd

I tried a 12 pt 12 mm socket and it didn't fit...mainly because my boot was right there. Suggestions on that?

-RedneckDave-

Did you try a 12pt box end wrench? If that will clear then what you need to do is put that on and slip a breaker bar over that and break them loose. that should work. I will be back in a bit. Keep te questions coming, cause I am a bottomless pit of knowledge.

fw190bvi

tight spaces = bloody nuckels.....im no "real" mechanic, but i dont know what else you could fit in their besides a regular old wrench...ghetto breaker bar it w/ a pipe for some v8 style torque, and tape up your nuckles....

thank god i had my mechanic do my rotors last year......

The_Todd

No my next tool to buy was a box end wrench. . So should I take off the cv boot/axle or leave it on? Once the hub/rotor are off I have 2 options:
1) have someone separate them
2) buy new hubs

Tally is 200 and going

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fw190bvi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thank god i had my mechanic do my rotors last year...... </TD></TR></TABLE>

I ALMOST broke down and drove my whooptie to firestone and had them put on the fronts and I can do the rear.

fw190bvi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">No my next tool to buy was a box end wrench. . So should I take off the cv boot/axle or leave it on? Once the hub/rotor are off I have 2 options:
1) have someone separate them
2) buy new hubs

Tally is 200 and going
</TD></TR></TABLE>

from what i remember from other horror stories of accord front brake changes, people have disconected the axle....i dont see how else to do it....just dont tear your boot, or itll be 1 more thing to worry about???..........if and when i need new fronts, im definantly swaping out for the vigor/legend fronts, cause those bitches arent pressed

-RedneckDave-

You should swap in some accord v6 hubs and rotor and then you will have brakes like me.

tech8

I gave up trying to change the front rotors, because I started to round off one of the 4 bolts on the front. Those four bolts on the front rotor don't have that deep of a head, so it was tough putting leverage on them without them slipping. Then when I went to Big-O, they said the rotors are pressed in.

So I went to a mechanic I knew, they had to use a tool, I think it was called a slide-hammer to remove the rotor once the bolts and nut was removed. From what I seen, it wasn't a simple job.

The rear are far easier.

The_Todd

Alright read my chiltons very carefully it says:

I need to remove the steering knuckle:



Number 1

THEN remove the 4 bolts on the backside of the rotor. In doing this it says to remove the axle castle nut. It says nothing about removing the cv boot/axle

Whoever works on hondas for a living...my hats off to you

.bagged

wow bro sorry to hear about all the frustration

The_Todd

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bagged93accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow bro sorry to hear about all the frustration</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tell me about it . Eh well, last night I met some girl with a nice *** and a banging body

But back on topic

.bagged

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by VRDrvr &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
. Eh well, last night I met some girl with a nice *** and a banging body
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just thought you would throw that out there.


So where are you in the process??

-RedneckDave-

Dude if I was up there I would change the rotors and everything at my garage for a 12 pack.

Hondaaccordvtec

You need to remove that big 36mm axle nut like posted before (make sure to unstake it), then get a slide hammer (cna be rented at Autozone or equivalent) and attached it to your lug studs and whack the **** out it to get the hub free - then you can get to those 4 bolt behind the hub and replace your front rotor.

It is an extreme pain in the ***!!
Honda designed a very shitty brake system to service

Cyberdx16

1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt

2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.

3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.

4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.

5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.

6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.

7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)

8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.

9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.

10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.

11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!

12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!

btw, when i did get my hub off the knuckle, those 4 bolts were impossible to take off even with a breaker bar because u couldnt hold the hub good enough. i suggest taking it in so you dont strip the bolts. goodluck!!! one word of advice switch over to the easier brake setup's like the CL's!!!

The_Todd

Thank you guys with all the help

I <FONT COLOR="red">&lt;3</FONT> h-t

Sadly, I don't have anyone that can help me and I know someone at firestone and its only going to cost 120 for everything removed and installed

I guess moral of this story is knowing when to give up before causing more damage.

Riceburner247

iTrader: (1)

If the 4 bolts need to come out(pics 1&2), I think it would be easier to take off the axle nut and pull the axle out of the hub. That way you can get easier access to those bolts (read: no bloody knuckles and you keep your sanity). You won't need an impact gun to take off the axle nut, but it would be easier.