Blown Stallone

Hey guy I'm new to forums, but I have a serious question. I have a 95 Accord EX w/ a H22a4 swap less than 100k. I recently replaced my Battery when I went to Autozone for a battery & alternator test. Once the guy showed me the tester showed that my battery was 100% charged but a bad battery. I bought a new one thinking it'll do the job but today after work I was driving on the highway home and once I got off and started driving the main streets the battery light dims on while I'm on low rpms. For example I'll take off on first and the light will be bright until I get around 3000 rpms, but as soon as I shift to second light comes right back on. Same with the rest of the gears. I basically try to go to 5th gear as soon as I can and stay on 50 mph but today I also noticed that once I got to the my shift point light when off but came right back on before it engaged vtec so I didn't hit vtec. I thought it would be alternator but my autozone buddy said I was good after running the tests w/ the new battery. I'm not going to lie my battery cables don't look the best, but if I replace both and also battery terminals would that get me in the right path. Thanks in advance guys.

Tachi

The testers at autozone/oreilly's are dumbed-down pass/fail units designed to minimize warranty claims. If your battery light is coming on then your voltage is dipping below threshold. Get your multimeter and measure battery voltage while someone else plays with the accessories and throttle.

Blown Stallone

Thanks but I dont have a multimeter I'll have the to use my friends tomorrow and need his help. What in particular am I looking for?

Blown Stallone

Also it's (battery light) not always on, it's only while I'm moving so while in neutral at a stop light with headlights, radio and AC on it won't come on...

holmesnmanny

its not a battery light its a charging system light and it almost always means your alternator is bad

your best bet is a Denso reman from rockauto

do not buy a parts store reman alt

MAD_MIKE

Verify it actually is the alternator that is the problem before replacement.

Bad/corroded/dirty/loose contacts/connections in the charging circuit will cause voltage drop issues. Revving the engine higher will allow the alternator to create more power output which may overcome the voltage drop issue until the alternator slows back down.
If there was any recent work done(before the batter issue) recheck all connections and components.

Verify the alternator electrical connections are clean and tight, trace back to the fuse box/ELD and the main battery cables are clean and tight.

Beg/Borrow/Steal a voltmeter.

Tachi

Or buy one. The units at Harbor Freight are accurate and use the same core board you'll find in any multimeter less than $30. It comes in handy sometimes.