lurice01

Stop. Call Honda and order OEM bellows boot. Return the old boot to the auto parts store. If you didnt do this and you forced it on somehow, check your boot all around the inner flange, i bet its ripped! you wont have this problem on the passenger side. Also make sure your breather tubes are connected or the boots will rip

NightHawk92

Wow thats scary i just replaced my lower control arms and checked the lower ball joints by wiggling them at the 12 and 6 o'clock Postions and didnt have a movement. So i think they will last a long time. So your car did this without warning?

willow96

Not a good picture but hopefully u can see what in talking about
Ok, I know this is an old thread bit I'm new here and need help from the pros! I have a 96 accord ex 223xxx miles 5 speed. The other day my lower from ball joint snapped (driver side) went to get it all part, everything went well until the part off ball joint stuck in LCA. because I had to get car off the road, it was dragging and now there is no more castle nut. I cut the ball off and tryed to beat it out bit won't move. Any ideas of how to get it out, was thinking about heating it with propane torch. Thx for any help that can be offered

vendorbuy

Just used this a couple of weeks ago and worked well:
Word of caution, and it was for the lower ball joint, that sucker was so stuck that the force exerted by the removal tool slightly bent the actual ball joint screw and the castle nut wouldn't thread after. Not a problem in your case, but just wanted to mention it. I had to buy a new ball joint, hammer out the old one, and hammer the new one in.

holmesnmanny

not sure my first link came up like that

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html

MAD_MIKE

If the nut was ground down, the stud snapped, and there appears to be quite a bit of rust, I would just opt for a yarde or new lower control arm.
But if you hate yourself enough or can't get another arm...

Soak the bugger in Kroil or Liquid Wrench, any kind of proper rust buster.
Propane will not be hot enough.
MAP gas(yellow) can from the hardware store.
Verify the nut/stud on the bottom side is not going to prevent you from popping it out, if you drove on it, the nut/stud may be knurled over, make sure it is ground flat and you can see the stud circle.
Center punch/drill slightly the side where the nut was, use a large enough ball bearing or something that will not compress but will fit secure, use a jack under the ball bearing and compress the suspension(using the cars weight). The jack should only be pressing the ball bearing, or whatever you use, to push up on the broken stud.
Place jack stands under the car to prevent it from falling if the jack slips or the stud pops out. But don't support the car with the stands, you want the weight on the stud.
Heat the end of the control arm. Let the spring/car weight push down on the arm while the jack/ball bearing pushed up on the stud. Invert a socket or pipe over the busted stud so it only is in contact with the control arm and give it a few whacks with a hammer. A single jack(mini sledge) is your friend here.

Make sure you have all the appropriate Personal Protective Equipment on your person and keep everyone away from the car. You're gonna induce a bit of force into the stud to break it free, and it may be a violent release. If you have to walk away from it for any reason, place a heavy blanket over the stud so if it does pop it does not go flying into your neighbors yard.