f22b2 Timing belt
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f22b2 Timing belt
ok, so within the next couple weekends im going to be attempting my timing belt on f22b2.
I know there are write ups on how to do it but im just trying to find tricks, and other helpful stuff I can use.
what do I really have to watch out for ect.
I was just wondering if I would run into any complications?
does anyone have and tricks that could help me out with this? first time doing a timing belt myself.
I have bought the timing belt kit from AutoZone. besides the kit and tools is there anything else that ill be needing??
would appreciate input!. thanks
I know there are write ups on how to do it but im just trying to find tricks, and other helpful stuff I can use.
what do I really have to watch out for ect.
I was just wondering if I would run into any complications?
does anyone have and tricks that could help me out with this? first time doing a timing belt myself.
I have bought the timing belt kit from AutoZone. besides the kit and tools is there anything else that ill be needing??
would appreciate input!. thanks
#2
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
Get/borrow a 3/4" impact, or a very very strong 1/2", for the 19mm crank bolt. Thats probably the biggest aggrivation. Other than that, make sure youre at TDC. then check and double check your timing marks. I find it easier to check the camshaft marks from the passenger side, not drivers. Theres many different ways, but I always remove the starter then stick a fat squareshanked flathead screwdriver angled in the flexplate/flywheel teeth, so you can torque the crank bolt properly, without it moving. Also, sometimes, its easier, when youre removing the plastic dust shield, if you lower or raise the jack holding the engine.
#3
MM Gruppe B
Re: f22b2 Timing belt
Use an impact socket for the crank bolt, even if you do not use an impact gun to remove it. I've had a Craftsman socket explode on me while trying to remove a crank bolt. I've also had to replace a radiator due to said piece of socket somehow becoming a magic bullet and piercing the radiator.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
Get/borrow a 3/4" impact, or a very very strong 1/2", for the 19mm crank bolt. Thats probably the biggest aggrivation. Other than that, make sure youre at TDC. then check and double check your timing marks. I find it easier to check the camshaft marks from the passenger side, not drivers. Theres many different ways, but I always remove the starter then stick a fat squareshanked flathead screwdriver angled in the flexplate/flywheel teeth, so you can torque the crank bolt properly, without it moving. Also, sometimes, its easier, when youre removing the plastic dust shield, if you lower or raise the jack holding the engine.
Use an impact socket for the crank bolt, even if you do not use an impact gun to remove it. I've had a Craftsman socket explode on me while trying to remove a crank bolt. I've also had to replace a radiator due to said piece of socket somehow becoming a magic bullet and piercing the radiator.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
but it really isn't that hard of a job? just make sure to double check tdc before I put everything together.
ill make sure to check back on this post when I actually do it!
thanks for the help
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
holmes: ok I definitely will do that!! do I mark it over the tdc marks?
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
I use a paint pen for marking the timing and for writing in the engine bay when I did the timing belt. I write the mileage down basically where nobody can see it, for my own reference.
I use a strap wrench to hold the harmonic balancer in place when I do it. If you have one that is quality they work great for holding the balancer in place.
I never really had issues getting the crankbolt loose either. 1/2" 3' breaker bar and man muscle never failed me. I understand that others have had serious problems with this though, so, be aware. I use deep creep when I do it. It seems to help get the nasty off the bolt before I get going. I also like to break it loose when the engine is warm. Maybe that helps.
Have you ever done a timing belt? Setting the timing is tricky if you have never done it, but, its not that hard once you have. Just be patient and remember to have a clear mind. If you get frustrated, walk it off and come back to it in a half an hour.
Make sure you replace the tensioner/water pump while you are in there. I personally would run an OEM belt myself, but thats just me. I'd be pissed if the belt broke and autozone was willing to give me a new belt(under warranty) but had no answer for my bent valves/wasted time.
So, I would only go OEM for the timing belt. The OEM belt is $36.00 from Majestic Honda;
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT
I would just use that and return the autozone belt. Its up to you really, but, for what its worth, belt breaking could = death of your valve train and possible punch a hole in the piston.
No thanks.
I'd rather just shell out the $36.00 for the tried and trued belt.
I use a strap wrench to hold the harmonic balancer in place when I do it. If you have one that is quality they work great for holding the balancer in place.
I never really had issues getting the crankbolt loose either. 1/2" 3' breaker bar and man muscle never failed me. I understand that others have had serious problems with this though, so, be aware. I use deep creep when I do it. It seems to help get the nasty off the bolt before I get going. I also like to break it loose when the engine is warm. Maybe that helps.
Have you ever done a timing belt? Setting the timing is tricky if you have never done it, but, its not that hard once you have. Just be patient and remember to have a clear mind. If you get frustrated, walk it off and come back to it in a half an hour.
Make sure you replace the tensioner/water pump while you are in there. I personally would run an OEM belt myself, but thats just me. I'd be pissed if the belt broke and autozone was willing to give me a new belt(under warranty) but had no answer for my bent valves/wasted time.
So, I would only go OEM for the timing belt. The OEM belt is $36.00 from Majestic Honda;
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT
I would just use that and return the autozone belt. Its up to you really, but, for what its worth, belt breaking could = death of your valve train and possible punch a hole in the piston.
No thanks.
I'd rather just shell out the $36.00 for the tried and trued belt.
#11
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
I use a paint pen for marking the timing and for writing in the engine bay when I did the timing belt. I write the mileage down basically where nobody can see it, for my own reference.
I use a strap wrench to hold the harmonic balancer in place when I do it. If you have one that is quality they work great for holding the balancer in place.
I never really had issues getting the crankbolt loose either. 1/2" 3' breaker bar and man muscle never failed me. I understand that others have had serious problems with this though, so, be aware. I use deep creep when I do it. It seems to help get the nasty off the bolt before I get going. I also like to break it loose when the engine is warm. Maybe that helps.
Have you ever done a timing belt? Setting the timing is tricky if you have never done it, but, its not that hard once you have. Just be patient and remember to have a clear mind. If you get frustrated, walk it off and come back to it in a half an hour.
Make sure you replace the tensioner/water pump while you are in there. I personally would run an OEM belt myself, but thats just me. I'd be pissed if the belt broke and autozone was willing to give me a new belt(under warranty) but had no answer for my bent valves/wasted time.
So, I would only go OEM for the timing belt. The OEM belt is $36.00 from Majestic Honda;
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT
I would just use that and return the autozone belt. Its up to you really, but, for what its worth, belt breaking could = death of your valve train and possible punch a hole in the piston.
No thanks.
I'd rather just shell out the $36.00 for the tried and trued belt.
I use a strap wrench to hold the harmonic balancer in place when I do it. If you have one that is quality they work great for holding the balancer in place.
I never really had issues getting the crankbolt loose either. 1/2" 3' breaker bar and man muscle never failed me. I understand that others have had serious problems with this though, so, be aware. I use deep creep when I do it. It seems to help get the nasty off the bolt before I get going. I also like to break it loose when the engine is warm. Maybe that helps.
Have you ever done a timing belt? Setting the timing is tricky if you have never done it, but, its not that hard once you have. Just be patient and remember to have a clear mind. If you get frustrated, walk it off and come back to it in a half an hour.
Make sure you replace the tensioner/water pump while you are in there. I personally would run an OEM belt myself, but thats just me. I'd be pissed if the belt broke and autozone was willing to give me a new belt(under warranty) but had no answer for my bent valves/wasted time.
So, I would only go OEM for the timing belt. The OEM belt is $36.00 from Majestic Honda;
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...+-+TIMING+BELT
I would just use that and return the autozone belt. Its up to you really, but, for what its worth, belt breaking could = death of your valve train and possible punch a hole in the piston.
No thanks.
I'd rather just shell out the $36.00 for the tried and trued belt.
so the autozone timing belt you think will be fine but I should definitly go to Honda and get a belt?
and yeah this is my first timing project! but I got it that patience is key!!! hopefully all goes good.
#12
Re: f22b2 Timing belt
If you've never replaced the belt before then it could be due for a complete kit(including tensioners). You can get a Gates kit from rockauto for cheap. Gates actually is the OEM manufacturer for the Honda belt. Be sure to google search "rock auto coupon code" for a 5 percent discount over their already lowest prices.
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
If you've never replaced the belt before then it could be due for a complete kit(including tensioners). You can get a Gates kit from rockauto for cheap. Gates actually is the OEM manufacturer for the Honda belt. Be sure to google search "rock auto coupon code" for a 5 percent discount over their already lowest prices.
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
I (personally) only do a t-belt as a set with h2o pump and tensioner as well. No thanks on the valve to piston contact when something fails. Basically ruined motor after that.
If you are lucky there will only be damage to the valve. Most of the time the piston is fucked too, and if the valve comes apart the combustion chamber can get trashed as well as the cylinder walls. It just depends how "unlucky" you are at the time. Flip side of the coin, I've heard(never happened to me) of people having a belt break and just being able to put a new belt on.
Lucky bitches.
I've lost an entire motor twice to a t-belt. So, now, I just don't f-around with it. After it happened once, I was religious about changing my t-belt, but not the tensioner.
Happened a second time(tensioner failed) and now I just do the whole deal at once.
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
I agree with this guy and his last post as well.
I (personally) only do a t-belt as a set with h2o pump and tensioner as well. No thanks on the valve to piston contact when something fails. Basically ruined motor after that.
If you are lucky there will only be damage to the valve. Most of the time the piston is fucked too, and if the valve comes apart the combustion chamber can get trashed as well as the cylinder walls. It just depends how "unlucky" you are at the time. Flip side of the coin, I've heard(never happened to me) of people having a belt break and just being able to put a new belt on.
Lucky bitches.
I've lost an entire motor twice to a t-belt. So, now, I just don't f-around with it. After it happened once, I was religious about changing my t-belt, but not the tensioner.
Happened a second time(tensioner failed) and now I just do the whole deal at once.
I (personally) only do a t-belt as a set with h2o pump and tensioner as well. No thanks on the valve to piston contact when something fails. Basically ruined motor after that.
If you are lucky there will only be damage to the valve. Most of the time the piston is fucked too, and if the valve comes apart the combustion chamber can get trashed as well as the cylinder walls. It just depends how "unlucky" you are at the time. Flip side of the coin, I've heard(never happened to me) of people having a belt break and just being able to put a new belt on.
Lucky bitches.
I've lost an entire motor twice to a t-belt. So, now, I just don't f-around with it. After it happened once, I was religious about changing my t-belt, but not the tensioner.
Happened a second time(tensioner failed) and now I just do the whole deal at once.
toycar, I have the entire kit that has all of it. people have told me that there pretty sure the tensioner is bad which I don't doubt but Im just gunna replace everything anyways. and I wish I knew about rockauto before. its like 40$ cheaper then gates kit you have been talking about compared to the autozone dayco kit. but Im still taking the advice to get the belt from my local honda
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
another fast question when im doing the timing is there any fluids that are gunna leak out? or that ill have to change. I just did an oil change not even 200 miles ago
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
Get/borrow a 3/4" impact, or a very very strong 1/2", for the 19mm crank bolt. Thats probably the biggest aggrivation. Other than that, make sure youre at TDC. then check and double check your timing marks. I find it easier to check the camshaft marks from the passenger side, not drivers. Theres many different ways, but I always remove the starter then stick a fat squareshanked flathead screwdriver angled in the flexplate/flywheel teeth, so you can torque the crank bolt properly, without it moving. Also, sometimes, its easier, when youre removing the plastic dust shield, if you lower or raise the jack holding the engine.
Use an impact socket for the crank bolt, even if you do not use an impact gun to remove it. I've had a Craftsman socket explode on me while trying to remove a crank bolt. I've also had to replace a radiator due to said piece of socket somehow becoming a magic bullet and piercing the radiator.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
Read the write up in the FAQ, there really is no difference between B2, B1 or the other SOHC F series engines. The two biggest problems will be removing the crank bolt, and removing the lower timing cover.
Might have to check with TouringAccord as last time the pics on that thread were down.
#20
Re: f22b2 Timing belt
With the belt ripped you need to be very very careful now. You don't want to turn that crank without the camshaft moving with it(it won't move now because there is no belt to keep it in time.
You will need the special crank pulley holder. You can normally rent one at parts stores. If none are available you can get one off ebay or amazon. You need to make sure to lock the crank in place with that and a breaker bar attached and it stationed against the ground possibly with someone holding it and don't allow it to move as you undo the crank pulley bolt which is 19mm.
The crank bolt is a bitch to get off the first time. You can use a metal pipe of some sort as a breaker bar over the breaker bar to break that bolt loose.
You will need the special crank pulley holder. You can normally rent one at parts stores. If none are available you can get one off ebay or amazon. You need to make sure to lock the crank in place with that and a breaker bar attached and it stationed against the ground possibly with someone holding it and don't allow it to move as you undo the crank pulley bolt which is 19mm.
The crank bolt is a bitch to get off the first time. You can use a metal pipe of some sort as a breaker bar over the breaker bar to break that bolt loose.
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
With the belt ripped you need to be very very careful now. You don't want to turn that crank without the camshaft moving with it(it won't move now because there is no belt to keep it in time.
You will need the special crank pulley holder. You can normally rent one at parts stores. If none are available you can get one off ebay or amazon. You need to make sure to lock the crank in place with that and a breaker bar attached and it stationed against the ground possibly with someone holding it and don't allow it to move as you undo the crank pulley bolt which is 19mm.
The crank bolt is a bitch to get off the first time. You can use a metal pipe of some sort as a breaker bar over the breaker bar to break that bolt loose.
You will need the special crank pulley holder. You can normally rent one at parts stores. If none are available you can get one off ebay or amazon. You need to make sure to lock the crank in place with that and a breaker bar attached and it stationed against the ground possibly with someone holding it and don't allow it to move as you undo the crank pulley bolt which is 19mm.
The crank bolt is a bitch to get off the first time. You can use a metal pipe of some sort as a breaker bar over the breaker bar to break that bolt loose.
the kit that I got says I need a m6 x 100mm of somesort??
#22
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
So, you never got the crank pulley off right? You ripped the timing belt or one of the accessory belts? Normally the timing belt is hidden behind the plastic cover, until you get the crank pulley of, you cant remove the palstic cover. The m6x100 i think is to keep the rear balance shaft in place, if i am not mistaken. You can also use a screwdriver, to do the same thing.
If you dont get the tool you need, you can also remove the starter, and get a big fat squareshanked flathead scredriver. Angle it so it locks into the flexplate teeth. then you can bust the bolt loose(Use a 1/2" drive with an 19mm socket, and an extension long enough to get past the wheel well, then rest the extension on a jackstand) then use a cheater it should bust loose.
If you dont get the tool you need, you can also remove the starter, and get a big fat squareshanked flathead scredriver. Angle it so it locks into the flexplate teeth. then you can bust the bolt loose(Use a 1/2" drive with an 19mm socket, and an extension long enough to get past the wheel well, then rest the extension on a jackstand) then use a cheater it should bust loose.
#23
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Re: f22b2 Timing belt
will the belt is still somewhat intact. but that I did know not to crank it and put stain on it, but after calling five auto part stores I finally found one for 25$ now is there any other special tools I will need to have?
the kit that I got says I need a m6 x 100mm of somesort??
the kit that I got says I need a m6 x 100mm of somesort??
#25
Re: f22b2 Timing belt
My wife's 94 accord was a bear to get the crank pulley bolt out. Used to do these day in and out at the dealer. Had to buy the pulley tool and still broke 4-6 mac and snapon impact sockets with a 3 ft breaker bar and a map gas torch.