5th Gen JB

So I'm aiming for at least 270 whp with this build so this project is going to take me a while. Im knowledgeable about my motor but still learning a lot as i continue my build. Right now im starting with my block. I ordered a rod and piston combo from bisimoto ($769). They specialize in building F series motors and other SOHC. Anyway im going to 9:1 compression so i had the motor bored to 86mm. Stock is 85mm. I had a guy at the TKO auto accessory store in Southaven, Ms right outside of memphis, try to convince that i needed a block guard installed before i had it bored ($170). I researched it and found that it is not recommended nor necessary. I read on a couple of forums that it also causes heat problems and thats something we all avoid so i didn't get the guard, didn't see the benefit. Anyway, Im having the crank polished ($150) and pistons gapped ($30) right now and everything else on the block im going to purchase new as far as water pump, oil pump, belts, gaskets, bearings, etc. The problem im having is trying to figure out ring clearance for my pistons. Tried calling the Bisimoto tech dept to see what they recommended but no one i could get answer from was in that day. So im going to research it more because i dont want it to be an average recommendation because i hear you should adjust according to your hp goals. Another thing im contemplating is whether i should switch from a vtec head to a non-vtec head. Apparently the non-vtec head flows better than the vtec head which means more potential for power gains. Well thats all for now, i will try and keep updates and pics up often.

accord_raffi

Well as far as your head is concerned, I think you should switch to the f22ax heads from the 4th gen accords since they flow better than the f22bx heads. The porting has similarities to s2000 heads. Also, a block guard is a good idea in concept, but I think there is a better alternative, Devcon. Devcon fillings do the same thing, reinforcing the cylinders, but do a better job with cooling. I think people have filled the bottom 1/3 (or maybe it was 2/3) of the open part of the deck. This lets coolant flow to the top part of the cylinder and cool that off. The top part is the most important part to keep cool since that is where ignition happens, so it's the hottest up there. Ask bisi about it.

Balwin

Hey I am trying to sell head studs and my 4 bolt downpipe.. my T3 turbo too.

I blew a synchro in my trans so now im just going to do a full H22 swap with the trans.

PM me if you are interested in buying anything.

jdmcivic2fast

damm bro u just wasted 700 bucks for nothing, u can hit 300hp if u wanted to on stock rods/pistons! and if u were going turbo u shouldn't bore it out to max on stock sleeves! u need to do research first before u do anything man!

Balwin

x2

These F22s can take a beating.




By the way the F22A head has the best flow.



No offense but if you were planning on doing all that work, you should have got the F23A block with an F22A head.

Bwill9886

If you take a look at Bisimoto's site OP, you'll notice he uses the F22Ax head for his F-series. Of course it will need some headwork to flow more like Bisi's but it's foundation is better than the others.

Yeah, block guards are basically only necessary if you are going for high boost and your sleeves are on the thin side and/or not of the stronger, aftermarket caliber. Of course in your case OP, you'll be just fine without a BG or improved sleeves. The stock iron sleeves will hold 300whp just fine.

I've heard Devcon works pretty well as long as the install is done properly (just like any block guard-like device). GE seems to make a good block guard design as well.

Eh, I wouldn't say he necessarily wasted his money. Sure, he could achieve his goals stock but why not spring for some extra insurance. Plus the OP can always go for more boost now.

Also the OP didn't really bore it out that much so there shouldn't be issues there.

Only other things I could ask/add are:

-What car is this going in?

-Use ARP studs/bolts if you aren't already. Cheap insurance.

-If you want more power for pretty cheap, grab a Bisi level 1.2 level turbo cam. Provides great gains (search around). NOTE: upgraded valve springs recommended.

-What are you planning on tuning this with?

Yup, that combo would be sweet. If I were going to build an engine that's probably what I would use (doesn't hurt that I already have the block). Oh well, the OP should be able to achieve their goals just fine with the proposed setup.

Balwin

By the way, you should at least use the F23 Intake Manifold with the Blacktrax adapter. Its a cheap mod that can make good #s.

Bwill9886

Haha, see there you go OP. Something to think about.

Good add. If you can get a hold of the intake for cheap, why not?

5th Gen JB

I think i would notice if i was wasting 700 dollars, one. Two, just because you CAN boost on stock internals doesn't mean that "I" want to. I would much rather spend my money to make my setup more reliable because pulling motors can get a little old. Besides i want to get the best results i can and still drive it daily. I dont want to limit myself to 6 to 8 lbs or of boost like most guys are running on stock internals (depending on the size of their turbo). Assuming you are in a civic im sure you aren't running an F series and with that being said i have done my research and continue to research my motor and that is exactly why "I" decided to go with MY setup. Hey but thanks man, i did know stock internals hold up pretty well when boosting.

Balwin

Yeah but the F series can do it exceptionally well.

My bud has been running 13lbs on his original F22B1 for the past 3 years.

His name on here is Andryzzle on here if you wanna search.




I dont think civic2fast is saying that you wasted your money, I think he meant that you spent a lot to achieve an HP goal that would be safely reachable on stock components. I can still see where you are coming from though. Better to be safe than sorry. But at least you can crank up the boost with no worries

5th Gen JB

Its going in the 95 accord ex.

I wasnt to sure about which cam to go with on a turbo setup but i started to order that along with the combo but decided to wait because i knew i was going to have to upgrade my valve springs.

As far as tuning goes im not sure. I was thinking of going with the p28 ecu and have it chipped and maybe find a place in memphis to try and tune it for me or have some of my friends who have more experience in tuning than i do.

Thanks for the suggestions and your thoughts man i appreciate it. If you have any other advise please let me know.

5th Gen JB

Ok that makes more sense and i understand but yea this is my first setup and i want to do it right, besides my motor has 170,xxx miles on it and i would not throw a turbo on that. Did you ever get to run yours? Just curious.

Balwin

No I was planning on doing it this winter.. but like I said I messed up a synchro..


plus im about to transfer from community college to a university this semester so having a turbo honda at school is probably not a good idea due to thieves and reliability issues..

I think I will be happy with the H22.. I hope.. lol

5th Gen JB

I dont blame ya. What brand turbo did you have? Good luck with school and stuff man.

Balwin

Its a Nissan Greddy T3 .60comp .63turbine.

Thanks good luck to you too. I look forward to seeing more on this build.



You need to clear your inbox. I tried to send you PM and it wont let me because your inbox is full.

Bwill9886

The Bisi cam is definitely the best bang for your buck if you decide to upgrade. Here's those results I was looking for:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/f22a-bisi-cam-dyno-s-2820956/

Only other thing I can add at the moment is to keep your eyes glued to craigslist and for sale threads on here for cheap parts. You never know what you might stumble across.

Balwin

Here is a link to the adapter to run the F23 Intake Manifold:

http://www.blacktrax.net/products/In...r_Adapter.html

accord_raffi

Ya I'm honestly surprised Andryzzle's car is making that kind of power for this long. That's a lot of power for these motors and I think his motor was just one of the healthier ones to begin with. One problem the stock motors have is that the ringlands are higher up on the stock piston. Since that's the hottest part of the piston, the rings tend to fry easier once you start more and more air into there.

When picking your turbo, don't be too conservative in your choice, especially if you plan to grow. If you pick a turbo that flows at a higher cfm, you'll have to use less psi to reach your goals. The benefit of that is less heat from less psi for a safer setup.

5th Gen JB

What does CFM stand for? So if i pick a turbo with a higher CFM, is that like choosing a bigger turbo and does it mean more lag time?

accord_raffi

It stands for cubic feet per minute and is a measure of flow rate. I guess most of the time that means a bigger turbo so it takes longer to spool, but just look at the exhaust a/r to get a better idea about that.

Balwin

but keep in mind that the car will be slow off the line if you get a big turbo.

accord_raffi

He'll be getting traction quicker.

Balwin

No quicker than my bone stock f22

Bwill9886

Concerning "big" turbo's:

I tend to be more concerned with the resulting smaller powerband, typically steeper powerband, and the tendency to get "out of boost" on gear changes (depending on gear ratios of course).

Launching (especially in a FWD platform) is going to usually be tricky regardless of turbo "size". Setups that spool quickly or more slowly both have their advantages and disadvantages.

It's all up to whether the car has been setup properly and whether the driver has the experience to know how to handle it or not.

eg Driver

this is goign to be interesting