2171USMC

Finally doing it. Banked some cash to do this.

Swapping a F20B w/T2T4 tranny to my 94 Accord Ex which is auto. Getting a P28 chipped ECU, swapping oil pump with the balance shaft eliminator, water pump, timing belt and a few other odds and ends possibly. Hoping to post my experience here as I couldn't find much searching and I am sure it's here. Sounds like the swap is very similar to the H22. I'll go this weekend and pull the cables from pick n pull for the clutch. Hoping this goes moderately smooth.

Aradin

You know have to do more than just install the plugs in the oil pump for the balance shaft eliminator, correct? You have to pull the bottom end apart and install some solid dowels in the girdle, as well as tapping one oil galley and installing a threaded plug which tends to leave some metal shavings in the motor if you don't do it properly. If you just install the plugs in the oil pump, you're gonna have a bad time. If you're uncomfortable doing all that you can just leave the balance shaft belt off and leave the shafts in place. Swapping the oil pump isn't even necessary in an OBD1 application. The JDM pump is the same as USDM OBD1. You just need to use an OBD1 H22 distributor(internal coil, for your EX, the OBD1 dizzy has all the necessary engine position sensors inside of it) and it's plug and play. It's a pretty easy swap. There will be some things you will have to slightly modify for it to work with your chassis but nothing too difficult with a little mechanical knowledge.

Don't ride it around on a basemap either. Get a real tune. That motor is 11:1 static compression. It will not be forgiving if there are lean conditions in the tune or the ignition timing isn't setup correctly. A real tune will save you a lot of heartache and money.

If you want to make some proper power NA then get a 1320 performance(the Tri-Y model) or PLM header, 3" exhaust and a true 3" cold air intake(not a short ram). That will easily put you at 200-210whp+ on a manual engine that come w/ Type S cams, depending on the dyno and tune.

The 5 speed swap can be a real b!tch. Installing the clutch pedal correctly is an extremely tedious job. Good luck.

2171USMC

I am getting the oil pump from KSTuned. While the JDM pump might be ok, being the lifeline of the car, I'm replacing it for peace of mind. As for the basemap, I'm getting a custom one from HAmotorsports. And yes it will still need a real tune.
I'll check out the header you recommend. Probably going to swap IM and TB as well. We'll see. I worry about a CAI during the winters. Although Northern Nevada isn't Montana or Michigan and the driest state in the nation, we do get fair amount rain or snow this time of year.

Was going to do the H23 swap but you kinda talked me outta that anyways. Trying to find the right ECU was real bear. I would have done H22 but that was a little pricier but doable. The F20B will save me some money and maybe allow for that CAI or other bolt ons.

I have the luxury of a friend who's done a few swaps so I am hoping it goes fairly smooth. His current ride is a CD5 wagon, same year as mine. He converted his to a manual.

Hope it's not too much of a b!tch but I guess I'll find out. Hoping to document this.

Thanks

2171USMC

So pulled the guts for the manual transmission..clutch pedal, cables,etc. Looks like the Firewall for my Accord might not have punch outs for the manual so minor modding might be needed.

Does anyone happen to know the Fuel Injector size for a F20B? I want to order the ECU but need to know that for the basemap. I read some where 310 cc.

Aradin

I believe they are either 280cc or 310cc. Honestly you would probably be better off trying to source some OBD1 H22 injectors or using some DSM style injectors that are low impedance which are plug and play with your stock harness/resistor box. Getting the stock F20B injectors to work will require replacing the injector clips on your harness or using adapters and deleting the resistor box. Plus there's no guarantee they aren't gummed up after sitting for 10+ years.

AFAIK all the 4 cyl 94-97 Accords had the same firewall. So indentations for the CMC will be there, they just won't be cut.

2171USMC

Aradin humor me here. Why would I need to swap injectors with a H22? Is this all because of the car/ecu is OBD1 and the injectors are on an engine that is OBD2?

I've had trouble trying to find a swap thread for this particular engine and although I understand it's nearly identical to the H22 swap, these little pitfalls are what I would like to see ahead of time. Would I be able to pull injectors from an older prelude? buy them online, ebay etc?

Aradin

I listed the reasons above. The factory F20B injectors are 1.)High impedance, which means you will have to delete your factory injector resistor box 2.)Have OBD2 style plugs, so it would require cutting your engine harness and replacing the plugs or purchasing adapters 3.)likely not in top form after sitting for 10+ years.

I did a swap in the past where the customer was adamant on using the injectors he got with his swap engine. So I wired it all up, car ran OK. Months later the car comes back to me with an oil burning issue. Come to find out the #3 injector was full of junk and did not flow nearly as much as the others....leading to a melted #3 piston and a blown engine. That cylinder had been detonating from a lean condition the whole time he was driving it and had just eroded away. If you decide to use the stock F20B injectors then at least take them to a machine shop and have them cleaned/tested. I have always found it easier to swap the injectors for a set that just works though.

The OBD1 H22 injectors or DSM style injectors(these can usually be found on eBay for ~$100 or less) will just plug right in and use all the factory wiring, resistor box, and plugs. If you search you should be able to find some that have been cleaned/flow tested and are good to go. If possible I would go with the OBD1 H22s if you can find any but the DSMs are another good option as they are very similar.

2171USMC

Thanks, just wanted to make sure I understood for my own edification. I'll check ebay.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/320cc-Fuel-...cAAOSwt5tZu2Pl

Will those listed above work? I see all sorts of offers, listing every engine type from different vendors. Ranging from different sizes.. 320cc to a 1000c.

2171USMC

pics of the Engine to be swapped in

Aradin

Looks like that one has been sitting awhile. Where did you get it from?

I use JDMNewYork and I'm always very particular when I order. I specify I want the best one they have in stock and ask for pictures of the engine they'll be shipping. They always send me one that looks like it just came out of the factory. But then again I have spent thousands upon thousands with them so they're probably just trying to keep me happy lol.

2171USMC

JDM engine depot in NJ. I figured it looked ok for an older engine. I certainly wouldn't have complained if I got a nicer looking one either.

Aradin

Ah. I've never used them. You should pull the VTEC solenoid and check the screen for metal shavings. Quick thing I do whenever I get one to get an idea of the condition of the bottom end.

2171USMC

Will do

2171USMC

More pic updates, main bearings and Kaizenspeed oil pump with balance shaft eliminator. ECU should arrive tomorrow

Aradin

Are those bearings the Aluglides or Duraglides?

2171USMC

That I do not know off hand. Bought them from Kaizenspeed. Let's just say I had the 25 dollar option or the 80 dollar and I opted for the less of the two

Aradin

Probably Duraglides then so you should be fine. I doubt they would sell Aluglides. Aluglides are garbage and shouldn't be used in a performance engine or anything you care about really. I have the Duraglides in my stock bottom end right now and they do fine at 8k rpm and 391whp.

2171USMC

I suppose I could always call them up and ask to be sure. They knew I what I was putting these bearings in so I don't think they would encourage known problem bearings. I have no current aspirations to Turbo mine, so 390+ WHP is something I don't have to worry about LOL. I'll be lucky to have a bit over 200whp all said and done.

IM and TB are also getting replaced. I haven't decided on doing the header yet. Tri Y would be my selection but that's another 2-3 hundred.

Aradin

You would be better off keeping the stock intake manifold and throttle body and then putting the money saved there into a Tri-Y header. The Skunk2 intake manifold isn't really worth the price tag for a basic NA setup. The gains are negligible at best. The manual version you have comes with a 62mm throttle body which is more than enough to feed an NA 2.0L. If you "upgraded" to a 68/70mm you would just be losing air velocity and it could cause it to be slightly less responsive during the transition from partial throttle to WOT. The Tri-Y header, however, does make noticeable power. The H22/F20B family of engines really benefit from a good flowing exhaust and a header with a nice sized collector. It makes big gains even on an otherwise stock engine.

2171USMC

The IM and TB are being given to me and bad news I guess. Main bearings are Aluglides. I checked the part number :

Aradin

I would send them back. I certainly wouldn't use them. Honestly you should just stick with the OEM bearings in the engine. No need to change them if they aren't damaged. The OEM Honda bearings are very good quality and they're already setup for perfect clearances from the factory. Much more accurate and consistent clearances than any "STD" aftermarket set you will find out there. You don't have to change the bearings just because you're taking the girdle/main caps off for the BS delete.

2171USMC

Ran into a little problem. Not really a problem but since this is getting converted to a manual, i purchased a F22 manual axle for the drivers side. Apparently that will not work with the intermediate shaft on the F20B. I guess the simple question is do I need say one from a mid 90's lude (h22)?

Aradin

To use the correct Accord axle(the one you have), you will need an intermediate shaft from a 90-97 manual Accord.

2171USMC

So just to make sure I am picking up what you are throwing down, I can keep the brand new manual axle I purchased for a CD5 accord and go buy or pull an intermediate shaft from a 90-97 accord?

Aradin

Keep the axle you bought and use it with intermediate shaft from a 90-97 Accord. It's the best fit. No worrying about binding or axle lengths. You can find them on eBay usually if you can't find one elsewhere. Sometime they are also called "jack shafts" or "axle shafts".