Bad_dude

LOL. I have been working late and don't get out until 1:30AM every morning.
But the main reason is I want to wait for my vacation so I have no time pressure to do any of the maintenance. I want to adjust the valves, change the lower tube seals since the previous owner has not mentioned anything about it. Oil change, transmission fluid change, fuel filter change. Also I need time and courage to do it right the first time. Plus get the tools I need before starting.
Plus I wanted to wait to see if any one messes up so I can learn from it before I do it.

I think that's it.

holmesnmanny

If it leaks? What are talking about? If it leaks, then f-in tighten the bolt.

More work? Come on man, my way is as easy as it gets. Any OTHER way is more work. Not really hard to see.

I'm with Ghost, I'm kinda surprised he hasn't done it yet.

L.a.

holmes i forgot to say thx for the advice im gonna check that out tommarow

holmesnmanny

I actually took my intake manifolds and throttle body off a couple weeks ago and cleaned the **** out of them and I would say if you have a couple days to spare, to do that when you do these plugs. It makes a hell of a difference to clean all the gunk out of the manifold, throttle body, and just inside the cylinder head. The throttle response has been nothing short of amazing. Plus, the grease grime on the outside of the manifold just makes it hotter and hotter air is less dense air, which is less performance. I never got around to doing the write-up but it's not too hard. There are nine nuts on the lower manifold where it meets the head. My biggest problem was that I thought there were only eight and I started prying on the manifold before I realized that there was a last one on the top left just inside where the thermostat housing water pipe is. There are four on top and five underneath you have to get from the bottom. One on the bottom you can get from the passenger side of the car using a 3 inch extension. It's barely visible from that side looking down into the back of the manifold. You loosen these bolts from outside in and when putting them back on you torque from inside out. I never put any sealant 'cause I never got an answer as to if it needed it but I don't think I have any leaks. There is also a bracket holding the manifold to the frame or firewall. It's one bolt you need to take off. Obviously you'll have to take off some of the other stuff. I took mine off one evening cleaned it, let it air out overnight and put it back on the next day.

Bad_dude

That is a great idea. Is it possible to have step by step and some pics or even a diagram? I really want to do mine. Did you have to replace the intake manifold gasket?
I did a seafoam treatment on my car and now the hesitation has gone away. I wonder if I even need to do the plugs. The problem is I have little if at all time to do these great service for the car. My car just smoke a little at the first few minutes and after that barely any smoke. I guess the car is not that dirty.

Thanks,


Thanks,

Bad_dude

I did this when the car was cold but coolant was still lost and I change a few of the hoses and even more coolant is lost.
On the 4th port I am drilling and the it went through but the bit broke inside there. What do I do now so that it won't through the port guys? I used the tiny drill bit first before putting the bigger one in then screw with slide hammer. It's the tiny one that broke in there. I am afraid it's small enough to go through the port.

Thanks.

GhostAccord

Take the entire manifold off and after you remove the drill bit give the throttle body and intake manifold a proper cleaning. Make plans to be without your car for the weekend/two days at the most. Make sure to get yourself a new intake manifold and throttle body gasket before you take everything apart.

Do you have a shop manual yet?

Bad_dude

I got the drill bit out. I drill another hole and pull the plug out. Then I stick another magnetized drill bit in and got it out easily.

I got another problem now, the last port the screw broke and it's flat on the surface of the plug so I cannot use pliers or vise grip to turn it back out. My screw extractor did work either b/c it won't drill through the screw to turn it out.
What do I do now guys? Any ideas?

One more thing. I change out some of the rotten hoses but a bit of coolant fell out. I took the radiator cap off and it's still full but it made a sound like if air got in it.
So I got to top it off tomorrow.
So what is the best way to top my radiator off with the engine running and don't spill any coolant? Every time I tried this a few times before and with the engine running it shakes and the coolant spills out of the radiator neck.
Should I bleed the system with the radiator cap off? Should I massage the radiator hoses to help push the air out? What is the chance of an air bubble stuck at the thermalstat?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

Ok, dude if you're confident you can't get the screw out, you're gonna have to take the manifold off and drill the rest of the plug and just turn it and let it all fall out. I guess you were gonna do it anyhow so hopefully it isn't so bad. You're gonna need a new intake manifold gasket set, I can't remember which car you have but as long as it's not an SE or Wagon you have two gaskets and get a throttle body gasket while you're at it as well as an egr gasket if you haven't changed it recently.

You're gonna need to jack up the car put it on jacks and be able to get under the intake manifold to loosen some nuts so I hope you have a jack and know where to place the jack stands, **** like that.

You're gonna need to drain the coolant and take off the idle control valves(EACV FITV AIRBOOSTVALVE)as well as the intake temp sensor by the AIRBOOSTVALVE and the intake tubing if you haven't already. Unplug the egr valve. Take off the throttle cable by unscrewing the left(looking at it from the front of the car) nut, there are two holding it to the upper manifold bracket, the right(looking from the front of the car) one is the adjusting screw don't mess with that. Now that I think of it, I think you have to unscrew the left nut all the way to get it to slide out. Then slide it off and open up the butterfly, then you can kinda slide it outta the throttle spring thing. Then take off brake booster vacuum hose at the back of the upper manifold. Then take off the fuel rail, I think you did this before, move it out of the way. On the driver side there are a couple screws holding harness wires to the lower manifold, I like to put the screws back in after taking the clips off, myself, makes it easier to keep track of nuts and bolts. Then take off the vacuum hoses attached to the throttle body, only take off what you need leave them on the clips so that they will be easy to put back later. Take off the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose and the one above it on the upper manifold.

Then head over to the thermostat housing, there's a couple bolts/bracket attaching the housing to the manifold, take those bolts off, but try not to take off the housing from the water pipe attached below it, I do not believe you have to lift that off, I did and it spewed a shitload of coolant. I only did that because I thought I had to, I don't think you have to. Unclip the egr sensor from the clip with the other sensors. Then unhook the TPS sensor on the throttle body.

I think that's pretty much it, I can't remember anything else but there might be a lil something else. I would probably take off the throttle body at that point. There's what I think is a fuel vacuum line going to the throttle body now that I think of it, take that off if you haven't yet, then there are I think four nuts going to the throttle body, take those off, then the throttle body should come off. Then there are four bolts or nuts attaching the upper manifold/plenum to the lower manifold, take those off, slide off the upper plenum. Then there are the nine nuts attaching the lower manifold to the head. I'm told to uncrew from the outside in so start with the one on top on the driver side, then unscrew the one below it, you can get to it from the driver's side of the car. Then go back to the thermostat housing and and using a three inch extension with socket and looking down to underneath the intake runner where it meets the head you'll see a nut. Unscrew that. Then do the one that you can see at the top standing in the front of the car. Then go underneath and take the nut off that's closest to the drivers side ,then the one on top and so on til all nine are loose. After that, there's a bolt holding a bracket to the lower intake manifold underneath the car, take that bolt off. There's also I sensor underneath, take that off. Then it should come off.

Then just take some engine brite degreaser and couple carb cleaner cans and some rags and clean out the manifold and throttle body making sure you don't get the TPS on the throttle body wet. I actually used my bathtub to help wash it all out afterwards, then just let it sit outside overnight to dry.

Almost forgot about getting the gaskets off, you absolutely have to get them completely free of any gasket debris. I went down to Walmart and picked up a 1 inch or so wide putty knife that's pretty flexible. That works great, for the small stuff, just flex/bend the middle of the putty knife with two hands and you can kinda make a 1/8 inch half circle round scraper in the middle of the putty knife to help pull off any small amount of gasket material that won't come off. That's how I did it best. Then you can also clean just inside the head, there's prolly some gunk built up there, just wipe it with a microfiber towel. Putting the lower manifold back on is inside nuts out.

DIY how to remove an intake manifold to change intake manifold gaskets throttle body gasket

Bad_dude

Wow!! This is overwhelming for me. Great write up though. I will make an attempt at using other technique before I can try this. Heck! I am having trouble adjusting my valves and EGR cleaning. Thanks.

holmesnmanny

np dude, it's really not that hard, just takes some time to do it. Really easy. Like I mentioned you asked for the writeup in the other thread so I threw it up for you to use if you or anyone else need it. Also, now that I think of it, I don't think u need to drain the coolant.

Bad_dude

So do I need to drain the coolant or now?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

You'll know because you will have to take off and move the thermostat housing out of the way, I don't want to say for sure no at this point, but I'm pretty sure you won't have to. I would just wait and see if you have to.

holmesnmanny

Ok, now that I think of it, there are water hoses attached to the lower manifold, I think I took the thermostat housing off to get better access to the hose clamps. See if you can get access to those hose clamps good enough, if you can't, then you'll have to drain the coolant and take the thermostat housing off the water pipe to get better access.

electrode56

My accord has 367k miles on it and it was not having any acceleration symptoms. I surmised it was because all of my ports were completely blocked which is what I had found doing research on this project. Mine were completely plugged. Since I had this high mileage I decided to pull the injectors as well, clean them and install new O-ring kit. There are actually 3 rings that need to be replaced and can be bought as a kit for around $10 an injector at O’R****s. If you look at the pics in this thread you will notice there is a collar above the Green O-ring. You can see this very clearly in the pic which shows the author vacuuming out the EGR port with a small hose. This is a fuel filter and warrants cleaning. This pic shows a little bit of space between the injector body, just above where the Green O-ring sits. This is the way one of mine looked when I pulled the injectors. Upon close inspection I realized this would pull completely out of the injector. Without that little gap and seeing that the other injector’s didn’t have that gap I would have never even though to investigate. After removing it and cleaning it with carb cleaner I went to reinstall it and noticed it would not go back in flush. All the other injectors had theirs flush. I ended up using a flat object which would put pressure on all top areas of that filter to get it back in flush without crushing the perimeter collar.
I pretty much followed the author’s instructions but would add one tip. Put some penetrating oil on the EGR port plugs and the EGR valve nuts and let them soak for a bit so as to allow them to come out easier. If you do this you should notice the plug moving deeper into its cavity when you use a punch to put a started hole for the drill bit. I used a small slide similar to the small one the author pictures so I never had to prop up the hood any higher than what the hood prop would elevate it to. From start to finish this took me 7 hours but the reslults are well worth it...

I also did the seafoam treatment via the PVC valve.