Bad_dude

Sorry but I just want to make sure as the pics on this DIY doesn't look like what you just said but I am no mechanic so I might be seeing things wrongly. But with pic#5 it looks like just the fuel rail came off, I don't see the injectors attached. With pic#8 I see the top tip of 2 injectors still in the manifold. Are those what I am seeing right?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

In the 5th picture he's doing an extra step that you don't need to do.


"6) Remove the two bolts with a 10mm socket that holds the fuel injector wiring harness to the fuel rail."

You don't need to do this. You see how he's swinging the rail to the left side? The bolt that it's hanging from connects to the fuel filter. Instead, you will be taking that bolt off the assembly. Then when you take the three nuts that hold the rail "with the injectors" to the instake manifold, you will take those off and lift the whole thing to the drivers(right-side looking from the front of the car) side of the car. You don't need to take the harness off of the fuel rail. Like I said before there are two plastic o-rings that you need to slightly oil a lil when you put the rail back on. Just refer to my last few posts.

Bad_dude

So basically I take off the 3 nuts the hold the rail off and the whole rail plus injectors come with it. Swing the whole assembly to the right, driver's side. What other bold do I need to take off?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

Including the fuel bolt that's on the passenger side of the rail, that's it. Then you have full access to all 6 egr plugs.

Bad_dude

Three more questions:
1) If I would like to change the o-rings, I would need to seperate the injectors from the rail then replace the upper and lower rings right? The cushion rings are in the middle, those usually do not need to be change right?

2) When putting back the rail, do I leave the injectors on or put the injectors in first then the rail on?

3) As far as the fuel wiring harness, I leave it with the rail right?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

1,2)The only things in between the injectors and the intake manifold are the plastic o-rings that Ghost was referring to earlier. There are two per and one is bigger than the other. I think the big one is on top and the small one is under it but can't remember, it could be the other way around. You'll see them when you take all "four injectors together with the fuel rail" off. You don't be doing anything individually with regards to the fuel injectors unless you plan on cleaning or replacing them, which imo is not probably not necessary.

3)Yes.

Bad_dude

Does that fuel bolt has an o-ring beneath it? What's the torque spec when putting back on?

Thanks.

GhostAccord

The banjo bolt has 2 0-rings, one on each flat side of the hose fitting. The O-rings are actually copper crush washers. In a perfect world they should be replaced after being used. However, there are probably enough members on this site that will say to reuse them. So you might as well listen to them.

The tq spec, reading straight from the manual as usual, is 16 lbf-ft.

Bad_dude

Nice. Thanks.

Bad_dude

What are the torque specs on the bolts to put the fuel rail back anyone knows?

Thanks.

GhostAccord

9 lbf-ft

Bad_dude

Thanks. So it's about the same as the valve cover.

GhostAccord

Valve cover bolts have a 7 lb-ft tq spec. so yeah it's about the same but not exactly.

Bad_dude

Looking at the fuel injectors, please tell me which part is most like I need to replace when taking the fuel rail/injectors off?
http://www.hondapartsnow.com/online/...fold%20%281%29

Is it part#2, 3, or 27.

Thanks.

GhostAccord

You may not have to replace any of them if they are all in good condition. The top O-ring (#27) would be the main concern. Then #3 and #2/4 if they are crushed/cracked or dried out.

I replaced all them all when I did mine. #27, #3 & #2. For the sake of $20-$30 you can give yourself some piece of mind.

Bad_dude

Did you just pop the injectors off the fuel rail or did you have to unscrew them? You just slip the rings and seals on right?

Thanks,

GhostAccord

I unhooked my injector wire harness and the injectors came out with the rail. There is nothing holding them in place other than the fuel rail. Once you remove the rail they just pull out if they don't come out with the rail. you can leave them hooked into the wire harness and still replace the cushion rings and O-rings.

Yes, the O-rings and cushion rings just slip off and on the injectors.

Bad_dude

I found this link: http://hondainfo.hottamale.hu/manual...ch/chpt_13.pdf

What could I find the 6MMX1 short flange bolts? I have the 6MMX1 tap but don't know where to find the bolts?

Thanks.

Bad_dude

Given this information, I could just install the injectors first then put on the rail, is that correct?

Thanks.

JoeBull

Bad Dude, First you don't have to remove the banjo on the end. I removed mine last year and it leaked. A honda dealership mechanic told me to hit the brass rings with some sandpaper to restore them. Why bother just open your gas cap, unplug the hoses, pull a rag under the fuel rail and slide it off, hag it with a bungee cord. (got this from Honda dudes 95accord EGR post) I just did this the other day. How old are those injectors? Are they rusty? Do you really wanna keep them? Go to injector warenouse.com and for like $120 they send you cleaned tested and new looking injectors, then you send them your old ones and you get $20 back. They come with all new O-rings and seals. Think about it. If you take out the injectors put them back in the same way they came out. (intake first or rail first)

Bad_dude

When you said to unplug the hoses, which hoses? Pics are great if you could help. About the injectors age, I think they are still original, but they are still working good. I only have 136k miles on the car. For the last portion that you mentioned, I would think that either putting the injectors in the intake or rail first shouldn't matter right?

Thanks.

holmesnmanny

Is it really that hard to take off that fuel bolt? Seriously. How can you mess that up? Seriously.

I'm pretty sure without looking at the car that if you don't take one of the fuel bolts off that you will need to do some hanging of the fuel rail somewhere. How is that easier than taking off one of the fuel bolts? It's not. When I did this on my car it was so easy my lil 10 year old nephew couldn't fck up the removal of this assembly. But if you wanna go through the hassle of having to hang stuff out of the way and possibly pinch, break, or unplug something, go right ahead.

Otherwise, it's three small 10mm nuts and one fuel bolt and lift it out of the intake manifold. Then just take the entire fuel rail assembly out of the way as 1 unit( I can't possibly be any more clearer on this, I did this myself)and do your work with it "100%" completely out of the way with nothing being hung by some bungee cord".

Like Ghost said, there are one or two washers on the fuel bolt. Just make sure you put them back where they were. This isn't that hard. Really.

JoeBull

Holmes it's not hard to get off the banjo, it's just like a brake hose end, but if it leaks you have to tighten it and could possibly break something. Why take something apart that you don't have to? Do you like doing extra work? Bad Dude just copy and paste this into your address bar. http://www.freewebs.com/hondadude/95...5AccordEGR.htm

Bad_dude

According to this link you take the fuel rail off the injectors and leave the injectors in the intake. I would probably use engine oil on the injectors instead of silicone grease before putting back the fuel rail.

GhostAccord

You still haven't done this simple maintenance yet? It's been 2 months since you first started asking questions about how to do it.