jdadams12

I think that I have a handle on it (done them on different cars), but was just wondering if there were any snags with the honda.

1992 Accord - no mods.

Also, I have a new water pump. Should I replace the tensioner too, or is it fine?

RiceRocketDave

I would replace the tensioner as well as the seals on that side (don't remember which ones off the top of my head right now). It is always better to do everything now rather then not getting something, then having it go out on you and having to take the timing belt back off. Work smarter not harder

P_Adams

How involved you get is determined by how much you hate revisiting things later.
Last one I did (97 SE F22B2)

Timing Belt
Tensioner
Counterbalance Shaft Drive Belt
Water Pump
Crank Shaft Front Seal
CamShaft Front Seal

P

Honda-Master

make sure you get honda parts, also get a balancer shaft seal + retainer,, i would not do the tensioner unless when you spin it , it is noisy, also get a new valve cover gasket if you remove the cover,,
pay close attention to where everything is positioned.. get a magic marker and mark things if you have to .. if you have an Helms manual it would help a lot

hondadude

http://www.cybertrails.com/~be....html The tensioners are usually good till the second T-belt change; just spin it and if it sounds like a box of rocks replace it. you might also want to replace the 'oil pump' seal...none of the seals will make 200k miles.
While you have all the coolant dumped out, it's a great time to replace the T-stat

jdadams12

T-stat and all the tin, including the t-stat housing, was done not too long ago after it started to rust and leak a bit.

Engine has 240,000 miles on it, so I guess that some seals will make it that long.

I will get a tensioner since they are cheap and I am already in there. I will do the belt, water pump and tensioner.

Last timing belt was at 90K, so this is way overdue, but was not in my hands until recently.

conker

I just did mine last week and things went pretty well (also a 1992 w/ 285,000 miles). I replaced
- timing belt, tensioner, and spring
- balance belt, tensioner, and spring
- water pump
- crank, cam, and balance shaft seals

None of the seals showed any sign of leaking but since I was there it seemed prudent. A trick I used to seat the new seals on the crank and cam was to pop the old one, start the new one on the shaft, place the old one back on top as a pusher and gently tighten the sprocket back down to seat the seal squarely. This does not work on the balance shaft as the sprocket is too far away from the seal. Take note of the depth of the old seals and set the new ones at least as far.

I used the following threads as a guide and it seemed to help immensley:

http://www.cybertrails.com/~pu....html

http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/us70343.htm


This tool was priceless in getting the crank pulley off:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ...28013

Just wedge the holding breaker bar against the ground or frame while you use a second bar to turn the crank bolt CCW.

The only things that slowed me down:
- Crank bolt - very tight, thought I was going to snap another breaker bar (I went thru 2 on the rotor job last month getting the axle nut off)

- Alternator - manual didn't tell me anything about the bolt on the bottom. Both the alt and AC have a pivot bolt, and adjuster, and a securing bolt. I should have thought of that.

- tensioner nut - this was a bugger having been exposed to the elements it took some work to break loose

- waterpump - has a 5th. bolt that also functions as the spring catch for the balance belt tensioner

- get a deep well 17mm for the engine mount

Tips:
- Remove the whole engine mount and bracket from the block for a total of 3 pieces. It will give you a lot more room to clean up and install the water pump.

- mark your belts for rotation

- before removing the old TB and BB I place a dot on each sprocket with some whiteout and a corresponding dot on each belt. Then after I removed the old belts I transposed the dots to the same place on the new belts. This just acts as an aide to make sure the belts are positioned identically. Then after you spin the engine a few times after installation you have all your timing marks on the engine lined up and all the belts and sprockets in the same position.

I have put about 500 miles on the job and all seems pretty good. I am getting a "whirring" noise that comes on at 1,700 rpms. I suspect I need to either adjust the timing belt tension or replace the alt. and power steering belts. I did not mark the belts for rotation before I removed them and I suspect reversing them may be the cause for the new sound. All will be replaced and adjusted tomorrow and hopefully I will be done. Take your time, take pictures if you have poor memory (I do). As mentioned, work smart, not hard.

Good luck.


Modified by conker at 10:24 AM 1/18/2006