jfernandez1977

Hi,

Somebody told me that I have to drain the brake fluid before taking the front brake pad off. I checked the maintenance manual and couldn't find that it is mentioned there. Could someone confirm if I really need to drain the brake fluid before taking the front pads off and put the fluid back after the new pads are installed on my Honda Accord 2000? Thanks.


JF

jamin

no, there is no need, but forcing the piston in requires having removed the master cyl. fluid cap.
however, pushing the caliper piston in to accept the new pads is easier if you loosen the corresponding bleed screw.
just remember to tighten the screw prior to allowing the piston to come out or you will have to bleed that line.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no, there is no need, but forcing the piston in requires having removed the master cyl. fluid cap.
however, pushing the caliper piston in to accept the new pads is easier if you loosen the corresponding bleed screw.
just remember to tighten the screw prior to allowing the piston to come out or you will have to bleed that line.</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is BAD advise.

First off, if you loosen the screw, you could let air into the system, and there is no reason to remove the resivoir cap. Just use large channel locks or a C-clamp to push the piston back into the caliper. Once you have changed the pads, be sure to pump the brake pedal so the piston contacts the bad before you drive, or the first time you go to step on the brake, the pedal will go to the floor.

DO NOT loosen the bleeder screw, and there is no need to touch the master cylinder what so ever. You really shouldent even need to pop the hood other then to check the brake fluid level.

jfernandez1977

thanks for all the anwsers. A friend of mine showed me and changed the front brake pads. He did it without loosen the breed screw and he pushed the piston in with a pliers (I will buy a C-clamp next time I change the pad).

JF

TouringAccord

I remove the reservoir cap just because it does make it a bit easier.

I also prefer to use a c-clamp on the front caliper though now I use a tool that rests inside the caliper as you turn a **** to compress the piston. For the backs you just need the special tool with a ratchet and extension.

and like stated above, do not loosen the bleed screw for a pad change. If you loosen it make sure you bleed the brakes after.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I remove the reservoir cap just because it does make it a bit easier.

I also prefer to use a c-clamp on the front caliper though now I use a tool that rests inside the caliper as you turn a **** to compress the piston. For the backs you just need the special tool with a ratchet and extension.

and like stated above, do not loosen the bleed screw for a pad change. If you loosen it make sure you bleed the brakes after.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I have a spreader tool at work, but I still find that large channel locks work fastest IMO. However, if you girls find it hard to push the piston back in, maybe you should hit the gym instead of pushing keys

i'm just kidding testosterone FTW

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_DC4_Fanatic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">However, if you girls find it hard to push the piston back in, maybe you should hit the gym instead of pushing keys </TD></TR></TABLE>

haha, lol

it's not that I find it hard, I just find it easier that way. that and I don't think my channel locks are big enough to do that, though I've never tried. A c-clamp does get cumbersome to use thats why I went to the caliper tool.

jamin

jdm
no man, it is good advise.
i use technique on several cars.
have never introduced air into that line.
makes piston compression very easy.
don't be so ridgid in your procedures.
learn.
out.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no man, it is good advise.</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, I don't agree...

02 accord

I just end up taking off the caliper bolts and twisting the caliper right where it sits (use the rotor to push the piston in; with the pads installed of course). I can usually get the piston in all the way that way. If that fails, then I use the c-clamp.

JDM_DC4_Fanatic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jamin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jdm
no man, it is good advise.
i use technique on several cars.
have never introduced air into that line.
makes piston compression very easy.
don't be so ridgid in your procedures.
learn.
out.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
3 years of college training and 7 years in shop experience and i havent learned a thing thus far

ETA: If you care to learn something youself, there are a few reasons why you should not do it the way you described.

1) You lose brake fluid, which requires buying extra supplies to do the job.
2) there is a possability of air getting into the system
3) There is potential to break the bleeder screw if its seized or excessivly rusted. You should always try to touch the LEAST amount of parts when doing a job, because everything you touch COULD break(on older cars anyway) which could lead to more costs associated with doing the job.
4) its extra work that makes the job take longer, and there is no positive benefit to doing it.

Honestly, the easiest way to do it at home, is to put a screwdriver between the brake pad and rotor and pry the inside pad towards the caliper. This will drive the piston back into the bore, and there are no special tools required.
Another tip to make it easier would be to make sure there are no sharp bends in the caliper flex hose, as it will restrict the flow, making it harder to push the piston back in.

And, if you are wondering what I mean by sharp bends in the line, I mean if you remove the caliper from the bracket, and flip it over so you can see the piston, the flex line is going to twist. If you twist it in such a way that it gets all kinked up then it will make it harder to push the piston back.


Modified by JDM_DC4_Fanatic at 1:05 PM 8/15/2008

jamin

you have excellent points.
since i don't work on others cars-mine only-i take shortcuts and have not caused myself extra work from using this technique several times.
on my original thread the caveat was, if one loosens bleed screw, must remember to tighten screw before allowing piston to come out.
enough said.