Confused CPS
#1
Confused CPS
I have recently acquired a clean 1990 accord lx. It was non running car from the get go. I'm trying to get it running so I checked for codes and got 4 long blinks and one super fast blink. I'm not sure if that is a 4 code crank position sensor or a 41 oxygen heat sensor. The car will start but sounds as if it is out of time. I set piston 1 at TDC, checked cam Mark's and rotor location. All seems to be in order there. I read that CPS is in the distributor. I also read its behind crank pulley and timing cover. I went to wrecking yard and picked up a distributor and by almost all appearances it's the same. Accept the rotor seems to be 180* off from one I pulled out.
So with that being said.....im trying to figure out what people can tell me about, one......the location of crank position sensor before taking more parts off the car, two....opinions on my cel codes, three.....any advice on what other things to test or check into,.....and finally just any advice on my situation would be appreciated. Thank you....
So with that being said.....im trying to figure out what people can tell me about, one......the location of crank position sensor before taking more parts off the car, two....opinions on my cel codes, three.....any advice on what other things to test or check into,.....and finally just any advice on my situation would be appreciated. Thank you....
Last edited by jersut; 05-25-2019 at 03:07 PM. Reason: Want to make sure it's clear what I'm asking
#2
MM Gruppe B
Re: Confused CPS
That would be the correct code.
If the O2 is bust it will make the car run like crap, a new Denso from Rockauto is ~$30.
#1 on the rotor/distributor does change depending on the sub model due to the different engine codes (A1, A4, A6, B1, B2, etc))
If the rotor is pointing to the tower closest to 'A' or 'A1' then that should be #1 actual for the distributor.
Also, do not set base timing to the single white TDC. You will want to set it to the red triple marks on the flywheel. 15º ± 2º
There are two different makes of distributor. TEC and Hitachi. TEC usually has the external coil, Hitachi is usually an internal coil. These also locate the #1 tower in a different position, roughly 180º difference.
90-95 Accords the CKP/CPS/TDC sensors are all inside the distributor. With the cap and rotor and dust plate off you can see the three magnetic pickups and the different reluctor wheels. One will have many teeth, another will only have four, and one more will only have one tooth.
Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. You have code 41
General tune, make sure there is no oil leaking into the spark plug wells, spark plugs are not worn and correct gap, air and fuel filters are clean, throttle body blade and throat are clean(use a cleaner soaked rag, Do not spray the TB down, or at least not when the engine is off, too much cleaner can enter the IACV and kill it), verify the spark plug wires are not damaged and the boots seat properly on the plugs and in the wells. Some generic brands do not seat correctly and pop off the plugs.
A faulty O2sensor will cause rough running, simply disconnecting it will put the engine into a limp mode or leave it in Open Loop, but the engine will run. Make sure the car is properly tuned up and you should be fine.
Change fluids and verify when the timing belt was last done. Mileage and age do contribute to deterioration, don't skip on the belt even if it has only been 100miles but it was done 7 years ago. If you do replace the belt, do the waterpump, use the Aisin kit from Rockauto. And pickup a new thermostat from Honda. Make sure to properly bleed the cooling system before startup. Incorrectly bled system will trap air, lead to overheating and a blown head gasket.n Honda didn't bother putting a bleed nipple on the thermostat housing just for fun.
If the O2 is bust it will make the car run like crap, a new Denso from Rockauto is ~$30.
If the rotor is pointing to the tower closest to 'A' or 'A1' then that should be #1 actual for the distributor.
Also, do not set base timing to the single white TDC. You will want to set it to the red triple marks on the flywheel. 15º ± 2º
All seems to be in order there. I read that CPS is in the distributor. I also read its behind crank pulley and timing cover. I went to wrecking yard and picked up a distributor and by almost all appearances it's the same. Accept the rotor seems to be 180* off from one I pulled out.
Long blinks are tens, short blinks are ones. You have code 41
General tune, make sure there is no oil leaking into the spark plug wells, spark plugs are not worn and correct gap, air and fuel filters are clean, throttle body blade and throat are clean(use a cleaner soaked rag, Do not spray the TB down, or at least not when the engine is off, too much cleaner can enter the IACV and kill it), verify the spark plug wires are not damaged and the boots seat properly on the plugs and in the wells. Some generic brands do not seat correctly and pop off the plugs.
A faulty O2sensor will cause rough running, simply disconnecting it will put the engine into a limp mode or leave it in Open Loop, but the engine will run. Make sure the car is properly tuned up and you should be fine.
Change fluids and verify when the timing belt was last done. Mileage and age do contribute to deterioration, don't skip on the belt even if it has only been 100miles but it was done 7 years ago. If you do replace the belt, do the waterpump, use the Aisin kit from Rockauto. And pickup a new thermostat from Honda. Make sure to properly bleed the cooling system before startup. Incorrectly bled system will trap air, lead to overheating and a blown head gasket.n Honda didn't bother putting a bleed nipple on the thermostat housing just for fun.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gohandbz8
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
1
07-20-2002 02:56 PM