kitt

Driving my car the other day when suddenly the check engine light came on and the car became very sluggish. The accelerator became stiff and it had a very hard time going faster than 20-30 MPH. What happened?

Car: Honda Accord 1998

GhostAccord

Make / model / year of your car? Have you tried to retrieve the CEL (check engine light) codes? aka OBD codes. (on board diagnostics codes) From the sounds of how your car is acting. I would say your electronic control unit (ECU) is in back up mode. aka limp home mode, or limp mode. This can be caused by a few different issues. Have your code(s) read and that should point you in the right direction.

If your car is a 90-97 there is a self diagnostics procedure that you can do.

kitt

Sorry about that, updated the first post. Tell me more about the tests.

GhostAccord

Were you are driving a 98 there are no ways to get obd2 codes off your ECU with a self diagnostic procedure that I know of. The do-it-yourself test procedures that I was referring to only work on 90-97 Accords as far as I know. However, there are some auto stores that will scan your OBD2 codes for free.

If you don't have any local shops that will do it for free ask all of your friends, your parents friends if anyone may know someone with an OBD2 code reader for imports. You may be able to find one that you can borrow/have someone come over and read the code(s) for you.

kitt

Ordered a cheap OBD2 scanner, waiting for it to arrive.

I looked under the hood and saw some fluid (oil?) against the left side of the engine. Would this cause the engine rumble and slow speed? Is it an easy fix or should I get it repaired professionally.

redbull-1

The distributor o-ring oil leak is common, that wouldn't cause your car to behave like what you are describing.

It probably is something else causing your problem. Reading the trouble code will most likely narrow down the problem. It could be something like a bad spark plug, injector, etc.

GlassJAw

You can jump the OBD2 port connector to get the CEL codes.

http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19

Check that link for a how to

If the link doesn't work I will do a step by step for you.

kitt

GlassJAw, like this?:

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Could go to Advance Auto Parts and scan for free?

kitt

The car seems pretty unstable, I don't want to damage anything... Do you think its OK to drive?

redbull-1

In some states like California, they won't do for you; but, will rent you the scanner for a deposit of $100. I don't know what's up with that?

TheMuffinMan

iTrader: (1)

Holy crap! That's ridiculous!

Paperclip scanning method it is then!

redbull-1

It is ridiculous. Several years ago, my dad's Toyota had a Check Engine Light, we went to Advanced Auto and they said they can't read it. Only rent it for "free" with a $100 deposit, which we would get back upon return of scanner, even if it is in their parking lot.

I heard the same thing from others on forums regarding California.

I just went to buy my own scanner from another store after that.

GlassJAw

you jump the black and brown wires, I have a JDM car and the plug isn't in the same place or orientation. Just try and see if you can see the wire colours and Paperclip the two colours I mentioned.

kitt

I had the picture upside-down, should be pin 4, 5, and 9 connected together (for my car).

What I got was: blink-blink-blink-pause-blink-blink-blink-pause-etc. (were they short or long blinks?)

Video of CEL

According to the earlier link:

3 Blinks:


I would also like to mention that the power door locks on my car are now working. They only seem to only work when there is something wrong with the car. Might be a clue to whats wrong?

Keep in mind I'm still waiting for my OBD2 scanner so this is just temporary

GhostAccord

Not sure but it would make more sense that the 3 blinks would be a code 3. According to that link a Code 3 = MAP Circuit Low Input or MAP Circuit High Input. An improper signal from the manifold absolute pressure sensor (MAP) could cause your car to idle erratically and act sluggish. Not sure that an A/T code would cause an idle issue. Better to wait and see when your code reader comes in for sure.

kitt

I checked the MAP connection. There was a some dirt lodged between the connector and the MAP sensor, maybe it was getting loose. I turned on the car it SEEMED to be better. I drove it around the block and there was no signs of struggling, engine rumble, or accelerator stiffness. It still idles strangely some times though, for example if I rev and let go quickly to 4000 RPM it will go well below 1000 RPM but 'bounce' back to near around 1000 RPM but it showed signs of this weak idle before this whole incident. Maybe its all related to the MAP sensor? (Still waiting for my OBD2 scanner though!)

GhostAccord

Reset your ECU and see if that does anything..... Disconnect the (-) battery terminal or pull the back-up fuse for 30-60 seconds. Wouldn't hurt unless you have to go for a smog test within the next week.

Note: if you have an OEM radio make sure you have the security code for it before you disconnect the battery/pull the back up fuse.

The hesitant response to your quick throttle blip could just be a dirty throttle body or Rotary Air control valve. The RACV is similar to the 4th and 5th gen IACV & FITV combined (idle are control valve and fast idle thermal valve) Sometimes they get dirty and aren't able to react quite as fast.

kitt

So I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery. It made the CEL go away. Today I drove it about 5 miles and the CEL came back on (along with the sluggishness). I pulled over, unplugged/plugged the MAP sensor and all seemed fixed again. Next, I went to Advance Autoparts and gave it a free OBD2 scan, the guy said it was the MAP sensor. Additionally, I bought some throttle body cleaner and cleaned the throttle valve. Didn't seem to bad, although I had a hard time getting a clear view of it. I disconnected the negative and reconnected it. The car had a very hard time starting up and staying on, most of the time dying out in a few seconds. Finally, after 5 or so tries it stayed on. So I left it on while I put my stuff away. After a few minutes, I noticed the engine was struggling again and the CEL came on (MAP sensor?). I noticed now that I turn it on it has a strong start, but gradually gets weaker (but doesn't die) -- did the throttle cleaning even help? .

Side note: I noticed on the air pipe that leads to the throttle body, there is a crack in the junction were it goes to the engine (I don't know the name). I wrapped it with some PVC tape but I don't think its air tight. Is this a problem?

GhostAccord

The crack in the hose, if leaking, can cause an erratic/surging idle as it would allow an imbalance / non measured amount of air into the intake system. Replace that hose and then test/replace your MAP sensor if the issue remains.

kitt

The crack is not that big, can it be patched?

GhostAccord

What pipe are you talking here, is it the large 2.5" diameter intake tube? If that is what your talking about. A crack in that will not cause an idle issue. You can seal that with a bit of 2 part epoxy adhesive or exterior silicon sealer.

SOHCArchangel

my old beast used to do the same thing when it chewed through the distributor rotor... for the most part its probably not your map sensor

kitt

SOHCArchangel: Even if the OBD2 scanner says it was the MAP sensor? Do you think fixing the distributor o-ring will fix the sluggishness?

GhostAccord:
The part labeled 7. The long tube that connects to the air filter box.

So if the air hose is OK. Then does that only leave the MAP sensor? Should it be replaced? How can I test it? (I know you can hook up a voltmeter to it, but I don't have any special pressure tools to further test it).

I drove around more, and the MAP sensor seems to be going in and out while driving. Usually, turning off the car and turning it back on makes it work again. Last time it went out I was making a left turn!

I have a suspicion that it may be linked to something larger with the electrical system. For example, ever since I've been having this CEL problem my power locks are working again, which they never did before. The previous owner installed an amp and custom speakers, maybe botched the electrical? Although, I may have no idea what I'm talking about

kitt

So I went to check the voltage today on the MAP sensor. When I opened the door, or turn the ignition on, the whole car's light system (inside and out) blinked left to right. Also the power locks stopped working. I also noticed the car is now idling strong.

Tried removing the negative terminal... everything seems normal again.

I think it occurred because I removed the ignition fuse.