lgchristianson

So, I have my trusty old 98 Accord Cpe, 4cyl and 5spd that was sitting a couple years in the garage. I started fixing it up to give to my 17YO daughter as her first car. Everything was going well and she (the coupe) cleaned up pretty good. We were out learning how to drive stick when she rear ended another car when the brakes went to the floor. When I got out and looked underneath I knew it was a rusted brake line failure. I figured I'd inspect them all to see how they look but I'll be damned if I can remove the plastic tray they sit in. Does it all come down as an assembly (disconnect all the lines first)? As I'm not the only one in the rust belt, how do most repair bad line(s)?
Thanks

MAD_MIKE

Rear brake lines are one piece from the proportional valve to the rear hose junction.
~$120 each from Honda.

If the brake lines are under(over) the plastic protector with the fuel lines, check the protector for a clip or screw locking the protector to the hard line bracket. There should be 3 clips/brackets holding the protector on.

lgchristianson

Thanks Mike, I have the protector free from the body but still can't figure out how to remove the protector from the lines. Everything is just hanging there.

MAD_MIKE

Lines are probably still just clipped in. Gently pull the protector from the lines.

slowcivic2k

The plastic cover has moldings that hold all of the brake and fuel lines to it. You will need to use some local force to remove them from the cover.

A lot of 98-02's need rear brake lines and fuel lines because of salt and corrosion at the back of the plastic cover. If you are replacing the brake lines, order copper-nickel line from autozone. It is a bit more than the Poly-Armor stuff, but it is much easier to bend, and will last a very long time. The tough points are if you choose to route your lines through the factory brackets at each rear wheel. Do not splice, replace the entire length, from the proportioning valve to the wheel end. I see a lot of these Accords with 4 or more splices in the brake and fuel lines, just do it the right way.

As far as I know, Honda will not ship a pre-molded line, they will sell you bulk in the correct length. I tried many years back. Even if you got it this was, youd have to take out the subframe perhaps and all the EVAP stuff.

hondamark35

Had the same issue as the OP with my sister's '01 VP sedan. The parts dept. at the closest dealership was able to get pre-bent lines for me. this was maybe 5 years ago. I did lower the rear sub-frame but only as far as it would go without the four mounting bolts coming out completely. they allow about 2" of drop before they come loose. this was enough to fish the lines through

MAD_MIKE

Sounds more like a lazy parts dept or they saw the price of the shipping and did not want to bother trying to sell you the part. Hard to find good parts guys, you either get a guy who can look up any part, or the washed up failed drunk mechanic.


lgchristianson LX/EX use the same two rear lines.
46330-S82-A00 007 001 PIPE C, BRAKE 172.37 118.94
46340-S82-A00 009 001 PIPE D, BRAKE 172.37 118.94
Shipping price is most likely going to go up due to passenger line shape.

Ford shipped the rear brake lines for a Mustang project, thinking it would be done like how Inline tube does it(folded lines in a cardboard tube), nope. Ford shipped a gigantic box nearly the size of the floor pan to prevent damage to the lines. Shipping was not cheap, but worth it for the project needed.

lgchristianson

Thanks Guys, gotcha. Will get back to it this weekend if I'm feeling up to it. Got the "C" in my throat and some days I just can't get functioning like I used to...

lgchristianson

Anyone tried just buying new line and bending it themselves? Been a while but I once was a pipefitter who had to bend SS tubing fairly often. Never tried double flairs but they can't be that hard...

MAD_MIKE

Trying to double flare some of the local store bought steel lines is a ***** of a job. I've broken two double flaring tools, and it is often a right bitch to get the damn thing working right. Seems most of the flare tool dies do not us the correct pilot pin size for the given line to keep the flare in the center. End up with a tear drop or crooked flare from the die going cockeyed. If you can find a local mechanic or plumbing contractor that have a hydraulic flaring tool that would be the ticket.

lgchristianson

Do you think it would help to warm the lines up before trying to flair them?

MAD_MIKE

The material most lines are made out of is very hard. You may have better sucess if you can locate the nickel copper lines that are available. They are much more manageable.

stucamp

Did you ever get an answer or find out how to get the plastic rail off. I am having the same issue?

stucamp

besides the two metal bolts at each end of the plastic race way I have what looks like plastic nuts on the bottom of the race way, I just had to twist and pull. I figured it out, thanks anyway.