SlowPokeEg

Looking into buying an older Honda Accord as the DD/Winter beater.

Good friend of the family is selling and he says it needs new front rotors. Also mentioned you need to remove the front hub assembly to replace the rotors? Apparantly it was the last year that they did that setup?

Could someone shine some light on this? Never tried to remove the hub....Difficult? Tools?

Any help is appreciated. I'm sure there's a link you Accord gurus could pull up for me

goowakjai

its not hella hard, just requires a press to get it out...easiest and cheapest way wud be to take out the whole knuckle assembly and bring it to a shop and pay them press it out. though u can beat the shyt outta the rotor to get it off, but dat'll ruin ur rotor and anyting else u myte accidently hit or bend. so i wudnt recomend that.

SlowPokeEg

Thanks for the reply.

I SWEAR i sifted through a few pages and didnt see anything related, but now i see a similar post below.....

Well, looks like i'll take it to a local shop and drop some loot on some new brakes

Honda_Accord

if u know how to change the brakes yourself and put everythign back.. at autozone they have this claw like tool you can rent and get your money back when u return it.. that u put on the rotor and then start screwing it in and it will start pulling the rotor off.. thats all i did . i have a 97 accord

it had enough force to remove mine

i just went to autzone, told them im having trouble with my rotor and they had a tool for it.. i mean it isnt a tool specially for rotors.. its for antyhing that needs to be pulled off but u cant with your own force. if you ask them and they act like they dont know what your talkign about.. just tell them it looks like a claw lol.

Charri

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Honda_Accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if u know how to change the brakes yourself and put everythign back.. at autozone they have this claw like tool you can rent and get your money back when u return it.. that u put on the rotor and then start screwing it in and it will start pulling the rotor off.. thats all i did . i have a 97 accord

it had enough force to remove mine

i just went to autzone, told them im having trouble with my rotor and they had a tool for it.. i mean it isnt a tool specially for rotors.. its for antyhing that needs to be pulled off but u cant with your own force. if you ask them and they act like they dont know what your talkign about.. just tell them it looks like a claw lol.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

I think youre refering to a slide hammer? Yeah they rent those at auto zone. I never really figured how they work

goowakjai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charri &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I think youre refering to a slide hammer? Yeah they rent those at auto zone. I never really figured how they work </TD></TR></TABLE>

i thought he was talking bout sumthing like a 2/3 jaw puller?

Honda_Accord

im not too sure what a slide hammer looks like.. mabye a pic would help? .. heck i dont even know what the tool i rented even has a name lol..

all i know is it has three claws, u clamp it on somethign that needs to be pulled off of something u cant do with man power.. u get a socket and and it has a big screw like thing in the middle of all the claws, u start to screw it like u were tightening something and then the claws start to pul the part off that u need off.

accrd18

clamp puller. i use em all the time at work. works kinda like puttin ur foot on a stationary piece of the car and using the 3 clamps with lips on them that attach behind the rotor and then pushing ur foot so slide rotor off. cept instead of foot and hands ur using threaded rod& socket and 3 claws


also called a bearing puller.

Honda_Accord

thats exactly what i got and it worked to pull my rotor off!

JDM MonopolyMan

A slide hammor is used in body work to pull out large dents. After you spin the rotor and your ready to put it back on, how do you press it back together?

Honda_Accord

if i can remember correctly (its been forever) and u have a new rotor.. we just slide it back on and used a rubber mallat to tap it back into place.. screwed everything back together and havent had a problem sense.

civicboisi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goowakjai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its not hella hard, just requires a press to get it out...easiest and cheapest way wud be to take out the whole knuckle assembly and bring it to a shop and pay them press it out. though u can beat the shyt outta the rotor to get it off, but dat'll ruin ur rotor and anyting else u myte accidently hit or bend. so i wudnt recomend that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. Tools: 36mm axle nut socket (autozone)
Breaker Bar with 5 ft water pipe for leverage
2 Jaw Puller (autozone)
I think a 10mm 12pt socket
(4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt

2. If you have rims move the center cap and while the car is on have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut. if you dont have rims remove the steelies jack up the car have someone hold the brakes and remove the axle nut.

3. Remove nut on outer tie rod. Seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle using the 2 jaw puller.

4. Remove nut on lower control arm. Seperate the lower ball joint from the low control arm using the 2 jaw puller.

5. Remove the caliper and caliper bracket and hold the caliper up with rope or hang it somewhere so it doesnt fall and break the brake line.

6. Now you can seperate the cv joint from the hub.

7. Behind the hub is the 4 bolts. remove those with the 10mm 12pt(i think)

8. With the (4)10mm x 1.25 60mm long bolt insert those in the 4 bolts u just removed in step 7 and screw those in all the way.

9. with a hammer or something else, pound the bolts off. without damaging the bearing.

10. if you cannot remove the hub off the knuckle, remove the upper balljoint off the upper control arm. becareful because when u take off the upper control arm the whole assembly will fall off, so i suggest either having the lower balljoint back in the lower control arm then take off the upper then take the lower off.

11. since you couldnt remove the hub off the knuckle u will need to look in your yellow pages and find an automotive machine shop. they should charge less than $40 to press your hub off your knuckle and while they do that have them install your new rotor too(shouldn't cost anything)!!!!

12. now you have your new rotor and just undo the steps. GOODLUCK!!!!!</TD></TR></TABLE>


Or do what I'm doing with my '91 accord ex. Get the 99 CL 2.3 rotors and HUBS and keep your accord bearings and calipers.

Then you'll have a rotor over hub setup instead of a hub over rotor setup.
http://www.geocities.com/honda....html

That link is a bit of help.

All you need to have a rotor over hub setup is to purchase
1999 Acura CL 2.3 (4 cyl) hubs: part# at Acura: 44600-SY8-A00
1999 Acura CL 2.3 (4 cyl) rotors
1990-93 Accord wheel bearings (only if your can't re-use your old ones).

rice_classic

I also need to note that this modification is ONLY for 1990-1993 accords.

pbink

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I also need to note that this modification is ONLY for 1990-1993 accords.</TD></TR></TABLE>

is there any issue with pad wear or caliper performance (action of the caliper pistons functioning correctly)?

rice_classic

NOPE. The CL 2.3 had the same size rotor and caliper (I don't know if it's the SAME caliper however).

Everything will be fine. The CL and the Accord have the SAME wheel bearing. I cross referenced part numbers at Parts Plus and they were the same for both cars.

Your braking will function exactly the same as it does with the stock setup because you're changing it to an exact equal stock setup, the only difference is that the rotor is over the hub.

goowakjai

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rice_classic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">NOPE. The CL 2.3 had the same size rotor and caliper (I don't know if it's the SAME caliper however).

Everything will be fine. The CL and the Accord have the SAME wheel bearing. I cross referenced part numbers at Parts Plus and they were the same for both cars.

Your braking will function exactly the same as it does with the stock setup because you're changing it to an exact equal stock setup, the only difference is that the rotor is over the hub.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

so ur telling me the 99 CL had the exact same break system as a 90-93 accord...i find that highly doubtful, since the CL was a highend, heavier, and more expensive car, im sure it wud have a breaking system to match. i wud think if ur goin to swap a CL rotors and calipers wudnt u need a CL mastercylinder for the extra pressure needed to clamp the bigger CL calipers(assuming that the CL has bigger better calipers)

1998hondaaccord

my 98 accord and 2000 have a few big screws that requirte an impact screwdriver to remove.

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by goowakjai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so ur telling me the 99 CL had the exact same break system as a 90-93 accord...i find that highly doubtful, since the CL was a highend, heavier, and more expensive car, im sure it wud have a breaking system to match. i wud think if ur goin to swap a CL rotors and calipers wudnt u need a CL mastercylinder for the extra pressure needed to clamp the bigger CL calipers(assuming that the CL has bigger better calipers)</TD></TR></TABLE>

huh? Reading comprehension ownes.

I didn't say they have the SAME braking system. I said your current braking system will function the same after the "upgrade". The CL had the SAME size rotors AND the SAME wheel bearings. Since the 2 cars have the same wheel bearing that means the outside diameter of the hubs where they press into the bearings is the same. People have been doing this upgrade FOR A LONG TIME. Also, repeat myself... YOU DO NOT NEED CL CALIPERS!!!!!!!!!!!

ONLY ROTORS AND HUBS

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i find that highly doubtful, since the CL was a highend, heavier, and more expensive car, im sure it wud have a breaking system to match.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Become a believer and erase your doubt!! Honda/Acura uses TONS of stuff from one car to another. Many different models use the same shocks, springs, brakes, engines, trannies, trailing arms.... And this from Honda and Acura since THEY'RE THE SAME COMPANY.

goowakjai

my bad...i guess i learned sumthing new today

LawlessOne

I just got bearings/hubs from acura, bearings were only a couple dollars more than somewhere else, and honda has the same thing same price for the bearing.

The hubs were 100 each. But hey, the hassle I avoid in the future I think will be worth it.

I also understand with the cl hubs uprgrading your front brakes to an H22 swap only consists of uprading to larger calipers and rotors. I'm not for sure on this though.

rice_classic

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LawlessOne &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got bearings/hubs from acura, bearings were only a couple dollars more than somewhere else, and honda has the same thing same price for the bearing.

The hubs were 100 each. But hey, the hassle I avoid in the future I think will be worth it.

I also understand with the cl hubs uprgrading your front brakes to an H22 swap only consists of uprading to larger calipers and rotors. I'm not for sure on this though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I believe what you have will be fine for a swap but I would need to do further research to verify that. However, to upgrade calipers and rotors you will have to get a different caliper bracket. That's all I know.

If you have more question about I recommend registering at CB7tuner.com

BrakeExpert

old bump to clarify, as these empty posts drive people nuts.

replacing rotors does NOT necessitate replacing the hub. Most all of our hondas have a rotor that slides onto the hub and uses two small phillips head screws...which are not necessary on a stock brake system.
the early 90s accords had a different brake setup. the rotor and even bearing can be replaced without needing a press or a slide hammer. the rotor is bolted in place. Keep in mind on some older cars with rust that these bolts may be damn near impossible to remove. the axle nut must be removed, 36mm socket. the socket/breaker bar can be rented at a parts store. the rotor bolts are 14mm, there are four of them. they can be on there VERY tight, so read up on stuck bolts. expect to need WD-40, pb blaster, an impact gun, whatever you can.

To mention the brake UPGRADE: the accords with the "hub over rotor" setup with these bolts is going to be a 10.3" disc for all of you without a v6. There is an 11.1" disc from the acura that fits on there, and you can then use the bigger acura caliper/bracket/pad and it will bolt up. check out accordinglydone.com or an accord specific forum for the write up, yes thoe bolts can be a bitch.