Hippie

neidejb, since you have a different motor yours is different anyway, never thought about that. I have an F22, my seal is flush and the retainer is crescent shaped with one mounting leg outside the cam cover rail attaching to a small bolt next to the dipstick tube. It is not the bolt for the tube, it is an inch or so lower. I believe my seal retainer is actually for a newer design but it fits the F22's also.

Hippie

My crank bolt came off with a Craftsman 1/2" drive breaker bar, of course mine had been apart a couple years before and my breaker bar is 30 years old, back when Craftsman tools were a little tougher. Got 'em for HS graduation .


[Modified by Hippie, 11:17 AM 2/11/2003]

hankd

But I should still get this part...

06923-POA-306

correct?

JiggaFan

My buddy got his buddy to put my '97 EX up on hydraulic lift and heat up that bolt to break it. I thought for sure he was using a bigger socket than a 19mm too. I dunno.

But yeah, you might need to break the torch out on that bad boy. Or keep being a tool tester.

niedejb

Mines an f22 as well

jweller

thats the one you need.

moroso makes one, you can get it form the dealer, snap-on, the toolwarehouse.net and probably a few other places. autozone does not rent it though well the one closest to me doesn't and they don't show it on their website either

hankd

I just tried my cheater bar again with an "L" shaped screw driver binding the flywheel...no luck. I tried a better impact at 100 psi...no luck.

I'm about to go pickup another compressor that'll do about 130 psi. If that doesn't get it, I'll pick one of those Harmonic Damper Pulley Holders up at the dealer along with the other couple things I still need and stick my cheater back on it...

What a clusterfuk!!

JiggaFan

blow torch, man. blow torch.

niedejb

Torch did nothing for mine.

1st one had to take to the dealer (bare block)

2nd one engine was out and bolted a 1/4 thick steel flat bar to the fly end of the crank and made it push against the ground. Cheater bar and impact socket on the pulley end.

jweller

save some money, buy the pully holder before the compressor

hankd

That's what I'm thinking too...I'm going to try to get that pulley holder tomorrow. If that and the cheater won't get it, I'll try the impact with the pulley holder, or the impact with the torque strap that a guy at work is bringing...

Something has to work!!

hankd

FYI...dealership doesn't carry that pulley holder tool...

I'm going to try this strap wrench tonight...if that doesn't work, I'll have to order that tool...

a4rlb0

Check this Web site out it give some great detail on how to change the timing belts.

http://www.cybertrails.com/~bestinth...otipsmain.html

I ended up taking the dust cover off the flywheel and removing two to the small bolts on the flywheel and then putting long bolts in their place so that I could take a long screw driver(like a crow bar) I have and wedging it so that the flywheel could not move. It work for me. Good luck

Curtis

2old_honda

adjust your valves why you have the cover off

hankd

I ended up ordering the pulley holder today...should be here by this weekend...

If that + 6 ft cheater doesn't get it, I'm gonna torch the car...

Thanks for the tip on the valves...I hadn't thought about that...

and why in hell didn't somebody post that link when I asked about this over a month ago!!! :D Excellent write-up!


[Modified by hankd, 12:01 AM 2/13/2003]

accordfreak

AWESOME! right click-- save as... and now in my engine build up folder for more information!




[Modified by accordfreak, 9:43 AM 2/13/2003]

hankd

It's ALIVE!

After 10 hrs today, she's all back together and purrin' like a kitten

**** a Helmes manual...it helped, but this site:

http://www.cybertrails.com/~puf/Hond...meBalNote.html

made all the difference in the world...

Thanks again for all the help (and support throughout my difficult crank bolt experience!!)...

JiggaFan

:werd:

after getting mine put back together for the first time Wednesday morning, my car was driving like shiit.

But I reviewed that article and noticed that I had not only left the "service bolt" in the timing belt tensioner hole, but I also found out today that we were a tooth advanced on the cam shaft sprocket. The Haynes manual says NOTHING about removing the valve cover to find the two lines on the cam sprocket that are 180 degrees apart.

The sad thing is that I had that article printed off for Monday (when I started the timing job the first time) but I got two minutes down the street and said "oh, forgot the article". Figured it wasn't that important and proceeded to my buddy's garage which I was stuck in for the next two days.

I sooooo wish I had turned around for those 5 minutes to get that article when I realized I had left it. Furthermore, I could have just searched for it at his place and printed it off. Argh!

Glad you got yours working as well.

I dunno. For $300 bucks, I might not whether this pain in the azz again. It might be worth having somebody else do it. But then again, it wasn't nearly as hard today to "redo" almost everything. And I can't imagine it being that much harder 105k miles from now when I have to do it again.

hankd

I can imagine how bad a Haynes or Chiltons is compared to the Helmes, which is only marginal in the amount of detail it gives...

I didn't even use a "service bolt"...

I'd definitely do it again. If it weren't for the crank bolt it would've only taken a couple days! Next time I'll be able to do it much quicker too...


[Modified by hankd, 7:53 AM 2/23/2003]