99' Accord No Start
06-22-2019, 07:22 PM
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99' Accord No Start
Hey guys, I am helping my friend with her 1999 Honda Accord V6 3.0 automatic. 218K miles on the odometer.
She's had it for years and it hasn't needed anymore than regular maintenance. Recently, it began stalling out randomly. She left the car with the mechanic for a week, he put over 100 miles on it, found nothing wrong and it didnt stall for him.
The stalling last week was becoming more and more frequent. A few days ago it stalled out and wouldn't start in a parking lot. Her and I messed with it and put on a new alternator and new battery (my guess was voltage regulator, her guess was old battery).
Well, it started back up after putting these two items on (five hours later in the parking lot!), and the revs went straight to 2300 and the car would not shift out of park (locked). This is a new issue altogether.
On top of that, it started stalling again. and now will not start at all.
The last time it stalled out, it gave a pending p0130 code. Through none of this, no check engine light or dash warnings.
Today we couldn't get it to start, period. We put on a new cap and rotor, no change. We took the airbag and air tube off, the throttle plate didnt look gummed up or anything. Looked perfectly clean and normal.
If the car wasn't having the rev and shifter lock issue I would have guessed fuel pump.
Im down to thinking its either a non electrical/computerized component that has failed, or the main eco has died.
Its been a fairly well maintained car, oil and spark plugs are up to date. Oil doesn't smell burnt. Never smoked from the tailpipe. No coolant and oil mixing. No current codes. No CEL. Im running out of ideas. I have done a fair bit of work on cars over the years, electrical, head gaskets, sensors, wiring, im not new to this! But this has stumped me. It doesn't seem to make a different on how the car starts, if its hot or cold. Now, its only cold anyway LOL
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
She's had it for years and it hasn't needed anymore than regular maintenance. Recently, it began stalling out randomly. She left the car with the mechanic for a week, he put over 100 miles on it, found nothing wrong and it didnt stall for him.
The stalling last week was becoming more and more frequent. A few days ago it stalled out and wouldn't start in a parking lot. Her and I messed with it and put on a new alternator and new battery (my guess was voltage regulator, her guess was old battery).
Well, it started back up after putting these two items on (five hours later in the parking lot!), and the revs went straight to 2300 and the car would not shift out of park (locked). This is a new issue altogether.
On top of that, it started stalling again. and now will not start at all.
The last time it stalled out, it gave a pending p0130 code. Through none of this, no check engine light or dash warnings.
Today we couldn't get it to start, period. We put on a new cap and rotor, no change. We took the airbag and air tube off, the throttle plate didnt look gummed up or anything. Looked perfectly clean and normal.
If the car wasn't having the rev and shifter lock issue I would have guessed fuel pump.
Im down to thinking its either a non electrical/computerized component that has failed, or the main eco has died.
Its been a fairly well maintained car, oil and spark plugs are up to date. Oil doesn't smell burnt. Never smoked from the tailpipe. No coolant and oil mixing. No current codes. No CEL. Im running out of ideas. I have done a fair bit of work on cars over the years, electrical, head gaskets, sensors, wiring, im not new to this! But this has stumped me. It doesn't seem to make a different on how the car starts, if its hot or cold. Now, its only cold anyway LOL
Thanks in advance,
Aaron
06-25-2019, 10:33 PM
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Re: 99' Accord No Start
We've continued to trouble shoot, we put on a new ignition coil.
The car has spark, if I pull a spark plug wire or the coil wire, orange sparks will come when the key is turned. (good right?)
Today we had it running (between stalls) and the CEL came on. It gave P0758, P1298, P0135, P0141, the first time. We reset and turned the car off and back on, later on the P0758 and P1705 codes came on, but not the others. This is an odd mix of codes, is it not? One is the shift selector solenoid, one is the upstream o2, the other is downstream 02, one is part of the charging system (this could be on to something).
I havre never had a car with an o2 sensor go dead, would that cause a car to stall and not restart?
The engine runs smooth as silk, not a misfire among any cylinder (ive had cars that misfired, this car isn't misfiring).
We did some poking around today, I unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control and plugged it with a screw-idle came back down to normal. During all this, the car has decided it has no issue shifting, so the issue of it not wanting to move out of park has gone back to normal.
SO now the only major issue is the car stalling. If we let the car sit and run, it'll go about 8 minutes from cold before it kills. If we unplug the battery, it still won't start. Would I be correct in thinking that if the car wouldn't start because of a bad 02 sensor, then unplugging the battery would reset the code and let the ECU try to run the car without the 02 sensor?
Other questions-if the main ECU was on its way out, would it shut off the spark or the fuel pump or both? Our next mission is to test fuel pressure and see if the fuel pump is delivering.
I looked at all the vacuum lines I could find, none seem soft or rotted even in the slightest. None look damaged. So if we have a vacuum leak, its probably device related like the cruise control, not an actual hose itself. Truthfully at this point, we are ready to try about anything to fix the car, but we feel a but limited on what the root source of the issue is. Would a fuel pump running lean cause BOTH 02 sensors to throw codes? I mean what are the chances that both sensors packed up at the same time? When the car first "got sick" it was only stalling once a week (driven daily), NO codes came up at the time.
Is there any way to actually test for vacuum leaks? I know the obvious, spray carb cleaner on susceptive sealed or potentially leaking seals of air intakes. This car has been dead reliable for my friend for years, it sure is trying its best to make up for lost time or something LOL.
I dont really feel like the fuel pump is to blame, since the car will run sometimes and doesn't stumble if you gas it, we held it at 4-5k rpm when it was running today-you wouldn't have know there was an issue on the car at all. BUT whatever has given up on this car is getting worse, it went from stalling once a week, to daily, to going for 8-10 miles, to three miles, last time we actually tried to drive it around we got about 2 miles (not trying again), in park the longest it ran today at idle was 8 minutes, the second longest was 5. Giving the car a break of about 15 minutes give or take would be enough usually to get the car started again ( but not run as long as the first time). Warming up makes it worse.
I hope this information is useful to someone. Even if we can't be the ones to fix it, we want to narrow things down for the mechanic as to avoid a long repair bill of-tried this, tried that, etc etc.
Thanks, Aaron
The car has spark, if I pull a spark plug wire or the coil wire, orange sparks will come when the key is turned. (good right?)
Today we had it running (between stalls) and the CEL came on. It gave P0758, P1298, P0135, P0141, the first time. We reset and turned the car off and back on, later on the P0758 and P1705 codes came on, but not the others. This is an odd mix of codes, is it not? One is the shift selector solenoid, one is the upstream o2, the other is downstream 02, one is part of the charging system (this could be on to something).
I havre never had a car with an o2 sensor go dead, would that cause a car to stall and not restart?
The engine runs smooth as silk, not a misfire among any cylinder (ive had cars that misfired, this car isn't misfiring).
We did some poking around today, I unplugged the vacuum line to the cruise control and plugged it with a screw-idle came back down to normal. During all this, the car has decided it has no issue shifting, so the issue of it not wanting to move out of park has gone back to normal.
SO now the only major issue is the car stalling. If we let the car sit and run, it'll go about 8 minutes from cold before it kills. If we unplug the battery, it still won't start. Would I be correct in thinking that if the car wouldn't start because of a bad 02 sensor, then unplugging the battery would reset the code and let the ECU try to run the car without the 02 sensor?
Other questions-if the main ECU was on its way out, would it shut off the spark or the fuel pump or both? Our next mission is to test fuel pressure and see if the fuel pump is delivering.
I looked at all the vacuum lines I could find, none seem soft or rotted even in the slightest. None look damaged. So if we have a vacuum leak, its probably device related like the cruise control, not an actual hose itself. Truthfully at this point, we are ready to try about anything to fix the car, but we feel a but limited on what the root source of the issue is. Would a fuel pump running lean cause BOTH 02 sensors to throw codes? I mean what are the chances that both sensors packed up at the same time? When the car first "got sick" it was only stalling once a week (driven daily), NO codes came up at the time.
Is there any way to actually test for vacuum leaks? I know the obvious, spray carb cleaner on susceptive sealed or potentially leaking seals of air intakes. This car has been dead reliable for my friend for years, it sure is trying its best to make up for lost time or something LOL.
I dont really feel like the fuel pump is to blame, since the car will run sometimes and doesn't stumble if you gas it, we held it at 4-5k rpm when it was running today-you wouldn't have know there was an issue on the car at all. BUT whatever has given up on this car is getting worse, it went from stalling once a week, to daily, to going for 8-10 miles, to three miles, last time we actually tried to drive it around we got about 2 miles (not trying again), in park the longest it ran today at idle was 8 minutes, the second longest was 5. Giving the car a break of about 15 minutes give or take would be enough usually to get the car started again ( but not run as long as the first time). Warming up makes it worse.
I hope this information is useful to someone. Even if we can't be the ones to fix it, we want to narrow things down for the mechanic as to avoid a long repair bill of-tried this, tried that, etc etc.
Thanks, Aaron
06-26-2019, 07:05 AM
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Re: 99' Accord No Start
Change the 02 sensors the one in the header checks the oxygen to let the computer know how much fuel air ratio the car needs to burn the gas correctly its bad for the car if you run it broken . The second one let's you know if the cat is bad it could be the cat being clogged and not letting the car breath correctly staling it out . Check for a vaccum line leak by spraying carb cleaner on the lines if it's leaking the car will run rough when it's getting sucked in.