alexkharden

Hello everyone, and thank you in advance for any and all help. I just posted this a little while ago, but then I realized my title was awful and completely non-descriptive. Couldn't figure out how to edit it, so I'm making a new post!

I am buying a used 98 Accord for my son. The car seems to be in great condition, but there are a few diagnostic codes I'm trying to work with to make sure it's a good car for him. I got all of these codes by jumpering pins 5 and 16 on my OBD-II plug, and then counting the flashes. I also went to Autozone and had them read the code, for verification.

CEL code: 70

D4 code: 16

OBD-II code: P1768

So these actually seem to both be codes for the same issue. My problem is actually in nomenclature. The CEL code 70 and the OBD-II code both point to a "A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE " A"", but the D4 code seems to point toward a "linear solenoid".

Also, when I read through the FSM, it refers to a linear solenoid, but not the other one. Also, on this parts list: Honda Automotive Parts , it refers to a linear solenoid as well, but also makes no mention of the other one.

So are these the same thing? Am I overthinking this?

Also, occasionally I see mention of a "lock-up" solenoid, and on the Autozone printout one of the definitions of the code P1768 is "Lock up clutch does not engage-stuck in 4th gear. Probable cause..."

I've seen the lock up solenoid as a separate part number, so there's more confusion.

Could someone please straighten out my thinking?

Also, for clarification. The first time I drove this car it ran great, shifted great, no issues, no transmission codes. Then I stopped the car and jumpered the OBD-II to find out what the CEL code was and the ABS code was. The first time I jumpered it it did pins 8 to 12. That obviously didn't work, corrected myself, and jumpered 5 to 16. Got my codes. Then when I started the car back up to drive it again I had the D4 flashing light and a new CEL code (the first CEL code was from a poorly tightened gas cap).

So did I screw something up by jumpering the OBD-II wrong? I went through and checked all of the fuses and none were blown. The car had been sitting for a while before he decided to sell it, so could it just be coincidence? That the solenoid just happened to go out right then as I was checking the codes? Or does Occams Razor apply, and the simplest explanation of me screwing something up applies?

Thanks again!

rockycat

Double posting??

alexkharden

"I just posted this a little while ago, but then I realized my title was awful and completely non-descriptive. Couldn't figure out how to edit it, so I'm making a new post!"

I guess you must've just missed the first line in the posting. If a mod wants to delete the first one that would make perfect sense.

Thanks for being so helpful.

MAD_MIKE

P1768 is A/T CLUTCH PRESSURE CONTROL SOLENOID VALVE " A"
Which is a linear solenoid, there are two of those in a single unit, labled 'A' and 'B'.
There are also the four 'shift' solenoids 'A', 'B', and lockup pair of A and B.
This gives you a total of SIX shift solenoids on the 2.3.

Confused yet?
There are three 'A' and three 'B' solenoids.
Two divorced units. #11 and #12
A pair that resembles the older style of shift solenoids is for lockup control. #9
And the Linear solenoids #7.
Part 1 -How to Test: A/T Pressure Control Solenoids A and B (Honda 2.2L, 2.3L)

alexkharden

So the linear solenoids #7 are the same as the A/T Clutch Pressure Control Solenoid Valve, both A and B?

MAD_MIKE

Yeeeeeeeeop.

alexkharden

Sweet! Thank you.

Any thoughts about whether I called the problem by my incorrect jumpering, or if it was just that solenoids time?

MAD_MIKE

Don't think it was caused by anything you did, I don't know the OBDII pinout. If you did anything that could have caused damage, it would have affected the PCM, not the solenoids.

As per the link I posted, test the solenoids first.
Verify the resistance is correct. If so move on and using battery voltage directly jumper the solenoids to see if they function properly, it should click on and off. If the solenoid is functioning properly, then it is most likely an issue at the connector or the wiring harness is damaged. Verify the connection is fine and locate or repair the problem.

Verify that the problem is not a false code created by disconnecting the solenoid with the key in the II(ON) position, as this will cause a fault to remain in the PCM but there is no actual fault.

Don't replace the solenoid unless you know the solenoid is bad.

I prefer to clear a code, pull the PCM memory fuse, restart the car, and go for a drive to see if the current code does occur again or if a new code pops up.

alexkharden

So we took possession of the car today and brought it home. Finally found the back up fuse and pulled it, but I searched all over the passenger side for the service connector and never could find it. Then discovered that the radio already needed the code, so my barrier to pulling the negative terminal was gone and I did that. Left it unhooked for like ten minutes, hooked it back up, jumped the obdii pins....still d4 flashing, still cel. So then I get ready to start doing the checks on the linear solenoid and what do you know? One of the connectors was loose on the damn solenoid. Plugged it in fully, turn the key and lo and behold, d4 not flashing, cel gone! I wish every fix could be that easy! Now on to the abs codes...

Thank you everyone for your help with this, I really appreciate it!