ctrooth

My 98 Accord dies while driving. NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT (fun right) Already replaced the fuel pump also tested the main relay and heard the click sound indicating that its working. Car will die randomly while driving and has to sit for at least 5-10 minutes before starting again. Very annoying that I paid for fuel pump and still have the issue. Please help me someone. I hear a strange whizzing noise under the hood also while driving that comes and goes. Please help

tamboo

http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin..._hot_start.htm

could be a worn ignition switch, new one is only 50 clams or so.
they definitely dont last forever and it's a notorious 90s honda problem.
you can clean it up but replacement is a better idea.

DIY Ignition switch cleaning - Team Integra Forums - Team Integra

ctrooth

Thanks man. I forgot to mention ignition switch was replaced a couple years ago and it worked fine after that. This is a new issue. So frustrating. The only thing I know is that whatever is wrong it won't trigger my check engine light which makes it hard to figure out.

nus_dogg

Sounds like the main relay.

ctrooth

Thank You. I have heard main relay from a couple people. Supposedly if you turn the key to the ON position and hear a click sound shortly afterwards then the relay is good. Not sure how accurate of a test that is however.

poorman212

You are going to spend a lot of money guessing

Why wouldn't you start by testing for what is missing when this happens....yes, I know "road side" testing is not fun but if you prepare yourself for the situation it can be done.

Is the car getting spark when this happens, is the car getting fuel when this happens? A simple "spark tester" and "light" of some sort will run you ~$15......the spark tester should explain itself.....the "light", tap into the BLK/YEL wire coming off the main relay (+ power to fuel pump) to this "light" and then find a ground source. When it dies, which system is not working? Then more testing will need to be done but at least you can start to narrow it down and save time and money....

OR
Buy a new main relay, new fuel pump, ign switch, complete dist with coil - ICM - cyp a CKP/TDC sensor (and since your replacing that might as well add the timing belt "job" parts)....WP, timing belt, balance shaft belt, tensioners, idlers....PCM. I could keep going but that would be a good start. Yes, you had some of these replaced already but how do you know the replacement hasn't gone bad and since money os of no issue, what the heck.

I mean no disrespect to anyone but all we are doing here is guessing , so I'm just throwing out my "guesses"

nus_dogg

Yes, it sounds good when it clicks. Thats cause it's cold so the cracked soldering joint reforms or retracts causing a decent connection then when it gets hot after driving it, it won't start anymore cause the cracked expanded causing no good connection.

ctrooth

I totally think you have a good point. Sucks man because i don't know squat about a car. Narrowing it down is not even something i have a clue of how to do. I guess I'll try to take it to a shop and let them rape me for $

holmesnmanny

The main relay doesn't just go bad. The soldering inside wears out and the soldering stops providing connectivity when hot. It will test fine and still be bad.

ctrooth

The rumor is that a main relay issue is common in summer. What are the chances of mine "getting hot" giving me issues in 30 degree weather?

Fitz Williams

iTrader: (1)

The main relay is under the dash. I am sure you are running your heater. This means that the relay will alternately be heated and cooled, so this would have an effect on the solder connections. And some relays seem to go bad while others do not. Luck of the draw.