nfaulisi

Hello everyone, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post. I've searched endlessly with no results to my problem and was hoping by posting my specific problem maybe someone else who has experienced similar or has the general knowledge can help me out. I have a 1992 Honda Accord LX with disc in the front and drum in the rear. I've replaced calipers, pads, shoes, rubber brake hoses up front and new lines going to the rear drums. I have tried bleeding the brakes numerous times using different patterns, I've also tried opening them all and letting gravity bleed them. I have good pedal pressure but it just seems to have no stopping power. Maybe there still is air in the lines but if that's the case why? What am I doing wrong when bleeding them? Has anyone else dealt with this? Help is greatly appreciated, I'm losing my mind.

exb18c1

Do the bleeders on calipers facing upwards? Is there pressure presence at four wheels? Are the rear brakes adjusted properly?

nfaulisi

Thank you for your reply. Yes the bleeders on the front caliper are at an upward angle, however fluid flows freely from them when open. I had all for wheels in the air and spun each one of them individualy then applied the brakes to make sure they were stopping like they were supposed to. Last but not least yes, I did adjust the rear brakes after replacing them. I raised them until the wheel would not freely spin and then backed them off just enough to allow the wheel to spin freely. I don't know what I am doing wrong.

holmesnmanny

What exactly is the problem ?

nfaulisi1

There is good pedal pressure, but no stopping power. I put my foot on the brake and it feels like it pushes about half way before engaging. I've tried slamming on the pedal to lock the wheels up while driving and get nothing but a slow crawl to a stop. It's just not brakeing like it is supposed to.

holmesnmanny

is the pedal spongy? is the pedal slowly going to the floor when u stop at a light and have the pedal depressed? keep in mind system is composed of soft lines so it flexes a bit when u press the pedal so its not going to brake immediately.

nfaulisi

Made a bit of progress today, now I feel stupid for even posting. I tried a new pattern today for bleeding and went through it a couple of times. Made a noticeable difference when brakeing. Must be there was just air in the system. I'm gonna bleed em again tomorrow and we'll see what happens.

phootbag

What events led up to the original symptom and the replacement of parts? Did the symptom start suddenly one day? Gradually? Did it start after replacing parts for maintenance?

TOO MUCH TORQUE

bleed with a vacuum pump! mityvac @ harbor freight ftw. it can do way more than just brakes.
http://www.harborfreight.com/mityvac...ump-39522.html
i use for brakes and clutch hydraulics

are your oem rubber brake lines original? you should def change them if they are...theyre not designed to go almost 20 years.

nfaulisi

I have replaced the rubber brake hoses up front. I originally replaced the front wheel bearings rotors calipers and pads. After that is when the pedal issues came about, so then I replaced the rear brakes thinking perhaps that's why there was no stopping power. Still had the same issue afterwards. Think I got it figured out now.

jesse j

i have a similar issue, good stopping power, but not much pedal pressure. any solutions?

phootbag

Now that I'm aware that the symptom started after replacing the front pads and rotors I would like to know if you used factory pads and rotors or aftermarkets? I've encountered LOTS of aftermarket pads and rotors that have poor coefficients of friction which resulted in the symptom you described. If you used aftermarket parts you may end up having to bite the bullet and buy factory pads and rotors to get the proper friction between the two.

exb18c1

Did you adjust the rear brakes before or after the bleeding process?Because if you bleed the brakes before adjusting you might not be able to get all the air out.Slack the adjustment completely and rebleed the system (two persons is strongly recommended)then adjust the shoes.

phootbag

The bleeder is still at the top of the wheel cylinder. This shouldn't matter.

exb18c1

I got caught with that once!If the shoes are adjusted while the system has air in it, the pistons will never reach the position when they are against the shoes!The pistons have to reach for that position to create resistance which will make the trapped air to be compressed(and bleed out).

nfaulisi

They are aftermarket pads and calipers. All seems to be okay now.