accordmatt

ok l have 96 accord ive done a h22 swap. i have to stay obd2 for emissions so l swapped oil pump,and using a p13-a12 ecu,h22a4 distributor. only problem l have is getting the wiring on the distributor. it has 6 wires and had 2 connectors for external coil. my stock harness had one big 5 wire plug. all colors match up cept the green on h22a4 dizzy. but it had blk/yel n blue on connector for external coil. l am using a msd blaster2 coil what wires go to what? please help

accordmatt

someone please this is all l need to be running

nus_dogg

Matt, I have not done an external coil before, so I'm clueless as I've been Internal all this time. We'll just have to see who's willing to chime in.

accordmatt

anyone???

GhostAccord

The green wire from the H22A4 distributor (ICM) should be hooked into the ground side of your MSD coil primary winding. That is the signal from the ICM to fire the coil. The BLK/YEL 12v wire is the feed for the coil (+). The blue wire is your tach & TCU(M) signal.

nus_dogg

I knew Ghost would know something about this wire.

accordmatt

yea actually l have tried that and no go? so if thats correct what else could it be? its turning over but not cranking

accordmatt

stock harness dizzy connector
yel
yel/blk
yel/grn
blue
blk

h22a4 distributor
4 plug has
yel
yel/grn
blk
grn
2 plug has
blk/yel
blue

this the wiring exactly

nus_dogg

Yeah, it's confusing.

GhostAccord

h22a4 Dist---------Accord Engine harness

yel------------------YEL (CYPP ECU C4)
yel/grn--------------YEL/GRN (Ignition input to ICM)
blk------------------BLK (CYPM ECU C14)
grn------------------MSD Coil - terminal (Primary output control)

blk/yel-------------- MSD Coil + terminal & also splices off to the BLK/YEL on the distributor (ICM - IGN Power)
blue---------------- BLU (RPM output ICM)

Make sure you don't have the YEL CYPP wire mixed up. On the F22B2 engine wire harness there is another YEL wire that went between the coil and the distributor. It went from the coil (+) terminal to the BLK/YEL (IGN) wire of the distributor.

accordmatt

l think l may have found problem. l am not getting power to ecu. i checked the ecu fuse under hood and inside and there good. so now what?

accordmatt

lm getting power to fuses inside car but no power to one under hood

redbull-1

Check the ECU ground on the thermostat housing.

GhostAccord

The ECU ground on the 96 CD5 chassis is the group of ground wires (BRN/BLK & BLK) that was bolted to the drivers side of the upper intake plenum. IIRC it is in the wire loom that went under the F22B2 intake manifold.

F22B2 CD5 G101 location


If it won't reach the thermostat housing at least make sure this is connected to the intake manifold somewhere. Also make sure that you give the area around the stud/bolt area a good cleaning with a wire brush to remove any oil, dirt, oxidation & coatings. This will ensure that you get good ground contact.

accordmatt

well now l have power to both fuse boxes but no power coming out of ecu connectors. i dont have a ground on intake manifold but would that cause no power to ecu plugs? l have power to all fuses and everything but not connectors to ecu

nus_dogg

You need to find that ground! It comes out of the engine harness and bolts up to the driverside IM. If it's not hook up, you won't get spark. That ground is for the ECU, so it needs to be hooked up.

accordmatt

ghost ur the shizznit l totally forgot that wire hooked up and cranked but cut off few seconds later small fuel leak and something else l gotta figure out but thank you so much

accordmatt

ok so now lm dumping alot of fuel. each time l pull plugs there soaked. l know could be bad fpr or vafc settings. but how do l diagnose fpr? and what other issues could cause it to crank a few times and cut off within 20-30 sec?

GhostAccord

What injectors are you using and how do you have them wired? What settings are you using in the VAFC. Honestly a VAFC is not the EMS I would be using for an H swap. Chipped ECU or at least a stock 96 P13. 96 no immobilizer I realize cash is tight but it would make things much easier in the long run.

Timing? how strong is your spark?

You need a fuel pressure gauge in order to test the FPR. with vacuum hose connected it should be 30-37psi and with the vacuum hose disconnected it should read 40-47psi. When you reconnect the hose if the psi doesn't change quickly, or the specs are not right when you take the readings, replace the FPR.

accordmatt

my ecu is for 345cc or 370cc and my stock resistor box works with those. and lm still getting plugs wet even after dif fpr

GhostAccord

OK so your running the 96 OBD2 peak and hold injectors. They went to 290cc high imp in the 97 H22. Brain fart....sorry!

accordmatt

its cool ur a huge help l appreciate all info. but u got mail of that pic

nus_dogg

My JDM H22A is a '96 which is still an OBD1 in Japan, and I'm doing fine.

accordmatt

yea but nuss ur stock obd1 also. im obd2 stock and have to stay that way to pass emissions.

accordmatt

yea but nuss ur stock obd1 and lm stock obd2 and l have to stay that way for emissions.
dizzy wiring is my problem now. lm not getting correct spark