wingnuit05gt

I am the unfortunate owner of a problem riddled 96 accord 4 cyl non vtech auto trans. i just replaced the front and rear engine mounts and not a couple days later does an electrical issue creep up on me.
here's the rundown
-the vehicle starts just fine
-currently have a new ignition installed (replaced ignition due to sloppiness and it wont release key after turning it off. anti-theft issue?) and i dont believe this is related because the problem persists when replacing the old one.
-none of the gauges are operational
-power windows also stopped working
-CEL for bad output shaft sensor, has been there long before this new issue popped up. BUT..... now with the electrical issues i have to "manually" run my automatic through the gears or else it doesnt know what gear it wants to be in and wont give me any acceleration. and it also wont always drop into reverse and i never had an issue previously.
I brought it to the dealer to run electrical diagnostics on it and they told me they wanted $1000 to replace the instrument cluster. i told them to stop touching my vehicle since they just want to be paid to throw parts at it and not actually identify an issue with it. (they didnt even check out the window issue either but said i should get new assemblies) i think they knew i was going to rip their heads off when i came to retrieve my vehicle becuase they waved all charges (including a tire plug), so i just went on my way instead of doing something stupid.
anyways that brings me here.
BTW im located in colorado springs so if there happens to be a honda expert in the area willing to do some work i would be more than happy for you to do this for me for a price.
i saw a thread somewhere in previous research that mentioned a specific fuse that causes cluster issues like this (cant find it now, of course) and that fuse is fine
I am by no means inclined when it comes to electrical diagnostics, i have a good multimeter and quick fuse checker so i should be okay on equipment

wingnuit05gt

just to clarify i dont have issues with figuring out a way to remove the keys, i just leave the anti theft harness unplugged to remove the keys.

MAD_MIKE

This is most likely the shifter interlock.
If the shift cable or gear switch is out of adjustment you will not be able to turn the ignition to O(Lock) and remove the key you can try pulling hte shifter all the way to D1 and then quickly pushing the shifter up into Park in one swift go. This might allow the interlock to function to remove the key.<br /><br />Check your under dash fuse box. I believe the #1 fuse controls both, if it blows it can also affect the shifter interlock.<br /><br />Again, check all your fuses with a meter. Under hood and under dash. Use a meter, if it has 12V on one side it should have 12V on the other, when you don't you have an open and the fuse is most likely blown.<br /><br />As for the sensor output, which shaft? There is the Main(NM) and Counter(NC) sensors, they may be open circuits or the sensor itself is covered in ferrous material, blocking the signal. Wipe it clean and reinstall. Without the shaft sensors the TCU will not know when to command an upshift, shaft speed sensors are used to properly time when to shift. Depending on load/throttle input.<br /><br />Check under hood fuse #30(20A), this powers the key interlock. You will also want to make sure the brake switch works. With the key turned to II(ON) when the brake pedal is depressed you should hear the shifter interlock solenoid click.<br />Under hood #15(80A)/#18(50A) feed the ignition switch, they are probably good but check them as well. But if your turn signal and courtesy lights work, then #15 underhood is most likely fine.<br /><br />If there was any work done prior to the above faults, recheck it.<br />Verify the battery is fully charged.<br />Verify the battery terminals are clean and tight.<br />Verify the battery leads are intact,<br />Verify the main ground, system grounds, and bonding jumpers are all clean and tight.<br />


Bah, fricking iB, I'll edit this later so it's easier to read...

trahanw

MAD MIKE: Great response, thanks I learned something. Since he replaced the ignition switch, can the switch be bad. Are you using a new key that isn't programmed for the ECM. Should he have a key cut, then tape the old key to it so it registers to the ECM. If this works, does he have to go to the dealership to have a key made with the appropriate chip to talk to the ECM. Funny it worked before he changed the switch. Not sure on this year. Again, Mike your response was awesome. Take care.

INcluded a link above so you can download the service manual, it has help us out with our accord tremendously.

tech8

The link to copyrighted material was deleted, as it is not allowed in this forum.

In addition, a 96 Accord does not have a chipped key and no Immobilizer System.

wingnuit05gt

The CEL is for the output shaft speed sensor. This code was there since i bought the vehicle (previous owner couldnt find OBD port which wasnt placed in its proper position after a aftermarket radio install) was about to order the part then this happened.
just charged the battery (i left a door open for my dog as it sits in the garage and it drained it) and cleaned the posts and harness.
so i did some poking and all fuses are good under dash except for #1. fuse was blown, replaced it, IMMEDIATELY a POP. 10A fuse blew out. i guess i may have found my issue. but what do i do now?
all are good under hood except for the 4 controlling the 4 different windows. fuses are intact still, just no power.

MAD_MIKE

Find where the short is and you should be golden.
If an aftermarket radio/wiring was installed, pull it out and recheck the wiring. If the original harness was hacked up, rather than using an adapter plug, there could be a dead short or exposed wiring. Albeit you pull that mess apart the fuse will no longer blow.

#1 fuse powers rear defrost, clock, flasher/hazard circuit, AT gear switch, lights on reminder, vss, gauge cluster, etc etc.

wingnuit05gt

Some disconnected pins
I have some pins that came out of a connector. It's underneath the thermostat. Now the question is which one goes where?

MAD_MIKE

Look the to the right of the image, that grey plastic piece is the VSS(speedometer sensor) it should have three wires in it.
Black - ground
Yellow - 12V from the battery, this comes from #1 fuse
Orange - 5V reference that feeds back to the speedometer.

Tape teh wires up and away, isolating them, reinstall fuse and see if it does not blow. If so, you have most likely found your problem.

Although it states '90-95' the 96/97 cars share commonality with the 94/95 cars with the exception of a few changes due to OBDII compliance.