josh4trunks

Or possibly a bad TCU?
Honda Electronic Transmission Problem- Troubleshoot, Inspection, Repair, Replace.

Maybe I should pull mine and inspect?

... or TPS replacement =/

holmesnmanny

Since you know the icm is a problem replace it and see. The icm being bad would cause the car to die for a moment then come back to life. It's hard to imagine that that would cause the tranny to slip but it could just be the perception from the car dying. The icm also tells the ecu what rpm it's at so that would help govern the tranny with regards to shifting.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ule+(icm),7172

josh4trunks

I ended up getting this igniter from ebay, but I continued to have error 15, and my car would not start up. I believe the started turned the engine over but none of the cylinders were firing.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Ignitio...a/302102266803

I then put back my old igniter and the car started up just fine, but I continued to have error 15. I did not continue to test my car further. Should I try resetting my errors?

I ended up destroying the plastic cover inside the distributor. I was already very cracked it broke as I messed with it. Is this important?

I noticed many wires that have their outer insulation cracking, and the wiring inside may have been frayed. In the picture linked I circle a module who's wire seemed to be in very bad shape. Would this module cause slipping / error 15? If the wire is an issue I guess I could try repairing it, or just buying a whole new distributor?
https://www.jruehlig.com/owncloud/s/zGjkN9vLVx4hIhR

@holmesnmanny if you had a chance, do you mind commenting on my questions bolded above? Thanks!

josh4trunks

I'm think I should just buy this distributor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Dis...-/252261313578

And return the igniter I bought since it did not work.

holmesnmanny

It actually looks like there is oil leaking into the distributor. The internal components need to be free from dust and debris in order to read properly. It's possible to replace the internal seal but you might just be best to get another distributor. You could just grab one from the junkyard and swap that icm over to it. Those go bad along with the coil after 150k or so, sometimes just having random misfires, while I've had a bad coil cause the car to stall very randomly until I replaced it and the issue went away.

You could try just buying some electrical parts cleaner and spraying the crap out of that one just to see if the issue goes away for a quick initial test.

josh4trunks

Ok thanks. I guess a junkyard would be quicker since I could get it today instead of waiting for shipping from ebay.

Do you know why the ICM I bought on ebay did not seem to work at all? It says on their ebay page is compatible with 95 Honda Accord, 2.2L. But I am wondering if it actually is, since the heatsink screw really didn't link up work great.
Thanks

holmesnmanny

The vtec(ex) and non vtec have different distributors.

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...r-hitachi-scat

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/auto-...butor-tec-scat

josh4trunks

Ok, that is helpful to know. I believe I ordered the correct one for my non-VTEC car.

josh4trunks

Well, I replace the distributor, set the timing and the car seems to be running really well now. I was hitting 70-80MPH, stopping, then moving again and the transmission worked flawlessly.
Also, it seemed like setting my timing was easier, like before the timing light made the lines on the crank wobbling. But now they seem more steady. Car seems to have a great kick to it. Next time I fill up I am going to check its MPG.

Thanks for all the help. I think my issue was a combination of a dirty/worn out distributor, and the clogged transmission filter. It sucks I damaged my transmission filter, but I am crossing my fingers the transmission continued to run fine for the next year.

holmesnmanny

Let's hope all continues to go well.

eksine

Just reading your first post there was nothing surprising there. You think the trans is overheating causing it to slip. Whats actually happening is you have a stuck valve, only way to fix is a rebuild and u have to ream out the passages aka oil circuits so the valves can slide freely. This is an extemely common problem with this car. You can try drain and fills it might let u drive it for a while, maybe not. And dont worry about the metal screen it isnt needed and does very little. You are worrying about the wrong thing. Try 3 quarts with a drain and flush. If it doesnt help your trans is toast . Dont rebuild it. Its cheaper to buy a rebuilt rrans on ebay for $1100 or just get a new car. That is your only options. Could also be slipping due to worn out plates if u have like 200k on it, either way its junk now

josh4trunks

So unfortunately I spoke too soon. The car worked great Wednesday night... but on my commute Thursday was slipping as bad as ever. The error #15 came back.
I have a feeling unplugging the battery somehow bought me some time. Or when I was testing the car down an empty road, and pushing it hard, it was different then the stop and go/ stop lights I deal with on my commute.

But, I did learn something. The error #15 I was reading was actually a transmission code (the D4 light) not a CEL code. I'm dumb, at least I still replaced my leaking and cracked distributor with a new one.
So code #15 likely has to do with the NM/NC speed sensors. I see them on autozone for $89, and $126. I can't seem to find these cheap online.
Are these available cheap online, or should I get a used one at a junkyard?

Thanks!

holmesnmanny

try taking them off and cleaning them first, but ya i would just pull em from the junkyard, if it fixes your issue you can think about going Honda for new ones

josh4trunks

awesome will try cleaning the main speed sensor tonight. will also check the TCU for burned resistors, or leaking capacitors. I'll possibly head to the junkyard tomorrow too.

also i read i need a new oring. if i order online it might take a week to get it. you think i can just get this at an autostore?

holmesnmanny

that's going to be a Honda part,even rock auto doesn't have the speed sensors

MAD_MIKE

O-ring is NOK 16 x 2.1. Sensors are in a no pressure area and unless you are driving/parking at extreme angles they will most likely not leak. More of a dust seal than anything else.
Sensors are available from Rockauto, but the price difference is negligible from the dealer, just don't get hosed with dealer 'matrix' pricing which increase prices anywhere from 30-130%. Ask for Retail. not matrix.

Being the code seems to appear when it is hot out, it is most likely a thermal failure. But it may not be the sensor itself, it could be the wire harness/connections underhood. These are 20-24 year old cars.
When the code sets you will want to check the resistance of the sensor as soon as the code trips. This way you can verify it if it is the sensor or the connection/harness/tcu connection.

As for the 'rubber' smell, check your radiator upper tank. Hot coolant and tank plastic makes a rubbery smell. I kept smelling it on the '95, checked belts/hoses/etc could not find the problem. Found some coolant on top of the fan below the rad cap. Replaced the rad cap. That week the upper tank **** the bed. A common issue with older Honda radiators. If it is over 7 years old, think about replacing it. Check that flat section below the rad cap, its flat, it should not be bulging nor any cracks/checking or white 'ghost' cracks. If it is, it will either crack/leak, or it will peel away from the core joint and let loose all over the exhaust manifold... mmmm burning coolant and plastic.

josh4trunks

Thanks everyone for the continued help.

Just in case, I removed my TCU and everything looked clean.
I also was able to get to my NM Speed Sensor by removing my battery tray.
It had a bunch of gunk on it so I cleaned the outside of it, and its wire, as well as I could without removing it. Test drove the car and still no fix.

I picked up a multimeter and will test the the NM Speed Sensor's resistance tonight. Then pull it out to clean it, and test drive again.
Depending on the outcome I'll either order a sensor or start checking the wiring.

josh4trunks

I tested the NM Speed Sensor and it was 500 ohms, within the 400-600 ohm spec.
I then did a test drive, and even reversing out of my driveway I could tell my transmission did not want to get into gear.
I then drove just a few blocks, got it to not transition into next gear and and rev in false neutral.

I got home and immediately tested the NM Speed Sensor and it was just a little over 500 ohms.

Would transitioning from reverse to 1st gear be affected by a failing NM Speed Sensor / wiring? I do remember starting my car a few days ago, after it had been sitting for several days and the same hesitation to get into 1st gear. I am starting to feel this is not an electronic issue.

Do you guys have any thoughts what I should do from here? I could try swapping the NM Speed Sensor still, but I do not want to put more money into the car if it will need a new transmission to work properly.
Thanks

josh4trunks

You are probably right. I did drain my transmission a few times throughout this process. I have been checking the level and it has been fine, so I guess my transmission is done for =[

MAD_MIKE

Reverse does not require shift solenoids.
Recheck the filter screen for clogs.

josh4trunks

My filter has a rice sized hole drilled through it, but I guess if the liquid level isn't very high above it there could still be flow issues with the filter.
I did clean it very well when I had it open, the metal screen was shining, but maybe there was some latent gunk in the transmission that re-clogged the filter.
If I did open the self made drain plug I would need to buy more ATF to refill.

Do you think this would this cause a transmission error #15?

MAD_MIKE

If the trans was gunked up enough to clogged the filter, yes, it could still have junk in it clogging the filter again.
Drain the trans sump normally and then open your new filter cleaning drain. If there is enough gunk to cause clogging then the fluid will be dirty again.
Did you change your fluid 3X as per the recommendation? Dran>refill>drive through all gears> drain>refill>drive through all gears>drain>refill>drive.

9/15 error would be from the NM/NC pickups, and it would cause rough/erratic shifting not a neutral problem.

Gearspeed-Performance

iTrader: (1)

I really think that your transmission is done. Once it starts slipping the way you describe it , there is no flush, oil change or sensors that will fix it.

josh4trunks

That is what I am starting to fear.

Now I am thinking of ways to get rid of the thing. =/
I doubt anyone would want to buy it for more than $500, when it can't reliably drive a few miles without slipping.

I could pay $65, and try a smog check. If I fail for high emissions the state of California would pay me $1000 to retire it. But, there's 2 issues here.
1) Either I can't complete the test, because the car can't stay a consistent 15MPH / 25MPH on a dynamometer.
2) Or I end up passing the test because my emissions aren't high enough. I could then legally sell the car, but would get less then retiring it.

I am thinking I can test drive the car a bit. I think the slipping mostly happens when reving the car, so as long as the tester eases to 15MPH / 25MPH the car can keep the speed.
As for the emissions, I usually am pretty close to failing for NOX, which I believe would be exacerbated by high combustion temps.

holmesnmanny

I would probably pull the plug and hit it one last time just to be sure, and even though the sensors test good, since it's throwing a code I would atleast pull a couple sensors from the junkyard before retiring the car, just to doublecheck.