95accordian

Ohk so the title explains a lot on what I'm trying to-do.

I have a 95 Accord with a very worn out ignition. I pretty convinced it can already be started with a flat head screw driver. which would make it pretty easy for my car to get stolen already so why not make a push button.

I have done some research and really have mismatched data. I am trying to completely bypass the ignition switch with a panel of switches, and a push button.

The only I data I have found is what wires go to what.

White is 12V+ input, [hot at all times]
Black/white is starter, [hot during cranking to start].
Black/yellow is ign. 1, [hot is run and start].
White/black is ign. 2, [hot in run].
Yellow is acc., [hot in acc. and run].

There are no grounds.

Now I needed to know what wires to connect to each switch and how to work the panel..
So, then I found this..

Put a manual switch at constant 12 and accessory
Put another switch at accessory to ignition
Put a push start button at ignition and starts.


the two switches has to be on at all time to keep the engine running.
To shut if off, switch 2 and then switch 1 off.

Now, how much of this information is correct and is it enough to make a panel and put it together, is there anything else I need?

Faraz123

If security isn't a concern then this should be the most efficient way to do it.

Switch 1 connects 12V to IGN1
Switch 2 connects 12V to ACC/IGN2
Push Button Switch connects 12V and Starter Wire

So to start car, turn on kill switch, push start then turn on ACC/IGN2 switch. To turn off turn off the kill switch.

This part of the plan

"Put a manual switch at constant 12 and accessory
Put another switch at accessory to ignition
Put a push start button at ignition and starts."

Won't work because you don't want your accessories draining power during start. The only wires you want on while you're starting are STARTER and IGN1. That's why I separated the IGN1 and ACC/IGN2 into two separate switches.


Your color coding of the wires is correct as well. Good luck! I'm going to be installing a similar set up on 97 CL

95accordian

so switch 1 is the kill switch? and how will I be able to bypass the steering wheel lock? well I be able to connect all this together with those t crimps
(I believe there called something like that). or should it be solder and heat wrap and what not?

thx for the reply

Faraz123

Solder and heatshrink for sure, you don't want a faulty crimp being the reason you can't start your car. And yes Switch 1 is the Kill switch. As for the steering wheel lock, after you turn on the car then turn on Switch 2. This is equivalent to turning your key to the ON position which should disable the steering lock.

95accordian

I will definitely will do that method, but now what about switches? just some 12v switches and a strong push button? and for the key lock is there anyway to take that mechanism out or is that making things to complicated? also one more thing ideas to where to mount these switches, finding a spot where I really don't have to ruin anything is a lot harder than I thought.

Faraz123

Definitely get a strong push button, the current shouldn't be that high as it's only activating the starter relay and not the actual starter itself. Ebay has some decent push button kits for like 20 bucks shipped. I'd get decent 12V toggle switches, I'm not sure how much current is running through acc/ignition 2 wires but again, you don't want them cutting out randomly. Autozone has some high amp switches.

As for mounting...you are gonna hack up your dash a little bit. I'm putting my button on the right side of the dash of of where your key hangs from the ignition. Just measure your holes carefully and don't make any holes bigger than the mounting points on the switches. And even if you mess up a new dash from the junkyard should run you like 5 bucks.

And do you mean the key cylinder where you actually put your key in to start? Could you potentially replace it with the push button..maybe but it's more hassle than what I would want to do. If you simply want to disable it so a key won't start the car just cut the starter wire from the ignition switch harness.

95accordian

ok I'm definitely gunna have to make sure I get all the pieces to the puzzle before I actually do this!! I will check both of these out.

and alright I think im also gunna do the same, so hopefully I don't mess anything up! hahah

and yes but no the key cylinder doesn't really bother me. its just that steering wheel lock that is one of the bigger concerns.
so, after I do these switches and push button, technically ill still have the choice to use the key? or am I gunna disable that option?

Faraz123

Feel free to give me your parts list and I'll be happy to double check for you and make sure you didn't miss anything. Good luck! Just have a nice drill and you should be fine, plastic dashes are the best places to start!

If you just install the push button like we've been discussing then you will still have the option to use the key. The key is literally just a 3 position switch so all you're doing is adding another set of switches in parallel to do the same thing. I'm sure the steering wheel lock will turn off when you send power to the IGN2/ACC circuit but if you absolutely want to get rid of it I think you can search and find a tut on how to grind it off with an angle grinder. Don't think youll have to though.

95accordian

Im a couple years late on the reply but is this something youd trust? http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?n...293298&alt=web