pumafeet10

dang where did u get that thinglooks kind of expensive, i have something similar from summit u bascially force the hub up by pushing on the axle and holding onto the wheel studsbut what always happens is that once u get to a certain part the whole things just spins so no workie i want to get the slide hammer but wanted to see where this guy got his if sinister2c can chime in id appreciate it

TouringAccord

Hammering on the parts is no different than using the slide hammer or the other tool. Your not trying to pull the hub out of the bearing, your just trying to knock the hub/rotor/bearing assembly free from the knuckle. Once the assembly is free from the knuckle, the rotor can be unbolted from the hub and replaced. Then just bolt the assembly back to the knuckle.

People in the northern states that see road salts and such and see more rust than cars down south may notice the assembly may be a bit more stuck in there. Thats where the hammering or slime hammer are needed. Otherwise, if all goes as it should, that assembly should come out of the knuckle with little work. But as we all know, things don't always go according to plan and thats when we need to hammer it a bit to loosen it up.

pumafeet10

i guess for me hitting the rotor doesn't seem as productive as the slide b/c thats pulling from the center instead oh shimming the rotr and hub out lets direct force and it seems that u are very right about the northern cars especailly since my cars has 122k on it it def doesn't want to move. the slide hammer just seems like more directed force

HONCORD

That tool runs around $160, well thats what one of our mechanics paid for it. yeah its expencive, but you wont believe how easy it will be to replace your rotors.
I've done this before with a hammer and hub removal tool. I separated the bearing with the hammer job. Sometimes you get lucky and still be able to put it together and sometimes not.
Pick your way.
Tell you what do one side with the hammer and the other with that tool. See which works better.

pumafeet10

see thats the thing the tool i hjave doesn't work too well i can get to a certain point but then im just sitting there spinning the whole hub no where to go but take the whole spindle off and have a shop press it out, not something i want to do or pay for againeven if i get the slide hammer and it takes 20 hits thats still better than the other way!

TouringAccord

I wouldn't be surprised if that tool wouldn't have worked on my car, not saying it's a bad tool or anything, just things don't always go according to plan. My bearing was extrememly rusted into the knuckle. I had it unbolted and sprayed with PB Blaster, connected the slide hammer to the hub and ended up hanking the hub out of the bearing. The bearing was that rusted in there. I had to have a shop press the bearing out of the knuckle. Once it was all done, the hole where the bearing goes was all cleaned up and greased (to help prevent rust) and a new bearing installed. Then next time the next person goes to replace the rotors, they hopefully shouldn't have much trouble removing the assembly from the knuckle.

As for the slide hammer directing more force to the center, yes, but we're not talking about something thats pressed into a tight hole. It's a slip fit and just slides in there, it's just that over time and mileage, it tends to become siezed in there. Thats why a little bit of hammering should loosen it, but it doesn't always work like that either.

IMO, every 90-97 Accord front brake job is going to go slightly different than the last. What works for someone may not work for the next person. Just take in all the info and try what you feel will work best for your car, if it doesn't work just try another method.

HONCORD

Nicely said TA.

sinister2c

I used a slide hammer i rented from Advance Discount Auto. It came with everything in the kit to pull just about anything on the car. It took about 3-4 hits to come off...but I'm from FL and the car has never been exposed to any salted roads.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pos_cd5 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">wow, very nice ...what pads are you running? and since you effectively increased the brake torque significantly in the front, what have you done to increase the rear brake torque to maintain the balance of your braking system?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Not too worried about the rear brake torque...this is basically a Accord V6 brake setup. There is not much of a difference between the I4 and V6 brake system except front rotors and calipers.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by lowered94accord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That setup will also bolt right up to a 94 accord ex with ABS right? cuz im definently looking into that now</TD></TR></TABLE>

Direct bolt -on...only hard part is bleeding the front because the bleeder valve is upside down since the legend has a trailing caliper (caliper on the rear of the wheel well). had to put a piece of wood between and bleed it off the car.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gianinline &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">daaanm hommie... that sh** look tight !!!!!

What junkyard did you go to?!... did you see any other gs in that junkyard?</TD></TR></TABLE>

car-part.com you can also use the calipers from any 93+ Legend coupe or the 94-95 GS. just make sure you get all the hardware and brackets when you order and ask them to verify its dual piston.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister2c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Direct bolt -on...only hard part is bleeding the front because the bleeder valve is upside down since the legend has a trailing caliper (caliper on the rear of the wheel well). had to put a piece of wood between and bleed it off the car.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hmmm....interesting. Never heard or thought of doing that. I've only heard of people flipping the right caliper to the left side and left to right to get the bleeder screw on top. But then I always wondered if that hurt any performance of the caliper, since you would now be using it in reverse of how it was intended to be used on the Legend. You would now be contacting with the bigger piston first instead of the smaller one or visa-versa, can't remember which piston is first when mounted correctly in a Legend.

sinister2c

I tried to keep it as close to the stock legend setup so I just went thru the extra steps to bleed it off the car.

TouringAccord

Haven't noticed any problems by doing it this way I take it?

pumafeet10

se im going to be pretty close to your situation and that tool that i have really is a pos but it was 20 bucks and i think i can get it to work if i use the slide hammer to get it out the rest of the way. Salted roads suck i drive to pittsburgh every 2 weeks in the windter and the raod i use is a salt mine. Also i just like having all kinds of tools cuz wierd stuff does come up anbd alternate solutions are needed. And this is my first time really tearing it apart so have to figure it out somehow. So far with my car its been a crap shoot tryin to get things to work!!

Screaminz28

You can also use NSX calipers. There was an old thread how you have to basically run the GS calipers upside down from the normal way, and the NSX ones are correct positioning for the bleeder. That's what I used, plus they have the bad-*** NSX logo on them, lol. Also, when you get the calipers, get the brackets too. The brackets will have a number on them, 23T, 25T, or 28T. That will determine which Rotor you should use. While you can use a 23mm rotor with a 25T bracket, it will have a bit much play that you might have to shim. Another interesting tid-bit, the pads are the same as the ITR, just the caliper is different. IIRC, the NSX caliper is a direct bolt-on to the ITR bracket, and they fit under 15s.

gianinline

thanks man!

sinister2c

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TouringAccord &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haven't noticed any problems by doing it this way I take it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

works like a charm.

pumafeet10

im hoping to do mine some time real soon big weekend coming up so no time till next week but itll happen

sportyaccordy

This looks awesome...I can only imagine how this would stop with good tires and the AEM OEM caliper BBK.

I'm still confused as to how to pull the hub with a slide hammer. Lemme see if I got this right:

Remove axle nut
Jack car up, remove wheel
*here's the confusion* Remove the bolts on the hub between the lugnuts? I heard those are usually rusted to all hell
Put the slide hammer on with the hub attachment on the lugnuts and axle
Slide hammer it off
Eh??? I need to replace my rotors and my front right steering knuckle but I don't wanna pay to get them pressed off...did I get it right? And how much $$$ am I looking at in tools?

TouringAccord

sportyaccordy, see link below
(on a side note, you could substitue the special tool in step 12 of the write-up with the slide hammer)

1997 Accord Brake Tutorial
Applies to all 90-97 Accord front brakes.


Oddly enough HONCORD, the OP of that thread uses (in step #12) a similar tool to what you described earlier.

pumafeet10

oh and the gs calipers the piton is bigger then the nsx i know for the bling factor they look cooler but bigger is better in this case. THis 15 in wheel compatable right?

sinister2c

yes the GS calipers are designed for 15in wheels.

the four bolts you remove are the ones on the back side of the spindle after you push the drive axle back...the are 12mm bolts. you may want to loosen the four bolts on the front too while it is on the car. they are a bitch when the hub is off.

you just hook the hub attachment onto the wheel studs and bang with slide hammer til its off...you may want to spray some lube on the back of the spindle if its rusted.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister2c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you may want to loosen the four bolts on the front too while it is on the car. they are a bitch when the hub is off.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, you may want to do that right after you remove the wheel while the brakes are still there. Just have someone push the brake pedal while you break those four bolts free about a half a turn.

Bird333

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sinister2c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Direct bolt -on...only hard part is bleeding the front because the bleeder valve is upside down since the legend has a trailing caliper (caliper on the rear of the wheel well). had to put a piece of wood between and bleed it off the car.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you elaborate on using wood to bleed the brakes?

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bird333 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can you elaborate on using wood to bleed the brakes?</TD></TR></TABLE>

what he was refering to is using the wood between the pads for the caliper to grab onto something while bleeding the brakes. He did it this way so he could keep the left caliper on the left side of the car. By doing that though, that put the bleeder screw on the bottom. Since the bleeder screw was on the bottom now, he needed to remove the caliper and have the bleeder screw face up when he bleed the brakes. So he used a piece of wood between the pads in the caliper for the caliper to grab onto.

Otherwise, the only thing some people may use a piece of wood for while doing regular brake bleed by themself is to hold the pedal down in the car while they go close the bleeder screw on the caliper.

JDM_CD7

iTrader: (1)

Great write up.
Only thing I my suggest is that when i upgraded my rotors I just simply took off the control arm and lossen the 12mm screws from the hub. Made the just alot easier then renting a slide hammer. Just before I took off the hub I sprayed a sh*t load of WD-40 into the hub and the thing just slid out with a couple taps of the rubber mallet.

TouringAccord

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDM_CD7 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just before I took off the hub I sprayed a sh*t load of WD-40 into the hub and the thing just slid out with a couple taps of the rubber mallet.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You were one of the lucky ones

The slide hammer is for the unlucky ones where the bearing is stuck in the knuckle. The OP still unbolted the bearing (4 12MM bolts on back of knuckle) from the knuckle like you stated, just used the slide hammer to pop the hub/rotor/bearing assembly out of the knuckle. It was probably stuck in there to much for a rubber mallet to pop free.

Hell, it's better than when I did mine. I did everything like he did, unbolted the bearing from the knuckle and attached the slide hammer. I even sprayed the bearing and knuckle with PB Blaster to try and help. I ended up hacking the hub out of the bearing because the bearing was so rusted in the knuckle. I had to have a shop press the bearing out and then replaced the bearings.