I have a 94 Accord I want to make a lot more reliable, I was reading a bit what might work and wanted to know a bit more for parts.
Wanted to do the EX Front and Rear end for suspension with Wagon/V6 brakes. Not sure what rotors I would need. Was going to keep stock motor for now but is the h22 my easiet option? Need to keep it automatic so everyone can drive it. Was going to do R15 with some infinity wheels but not sure if I’m good on the hub, need this mostly cause the rains and streets are full of crazy bumps and big hills, long mountainous dirt trails. Maybe even reinforcing later.

Good start.
Front sway bars on the EX models are 27mm.
Rear sway bar is 14 or 15mm.
Only problem with rear sway bars is if the LX was not optioned with them the subframe may not be drilled for the mounts.
EX rear knuckles are different due to the disc vs drum difference, so it may be worth while to grab a complete EX to get the goods.
V6/Wagon rotors are 280mm and use a different caliper. But they both bolt onto the standard DX-EX knuckles no problem.
Use quality brand rotors, don't cheap out here. Especially with the hub over design, it won't be easy to replace if you cheap out.
Centric(STOPTECH) sell quality rotors at a great price. Rockauto probably has the best pricing.
Stick with semi-metallic pads, these will grip. You may have to rebed them from time to time if the car is driven sedately.
NAO(organics) are pointless and ceramic pads are even worse.
H22VTEC although a nice engine, is a bit peaky. If Emissions testing is not an issue I would suggest just getting an H23 VTEC Bluetop. You will have the F22 Torq with the H22s HP. Best of both worlds. No need to rev it(h22) so it can be driven normally.
Or if you have a F22 in good running order you could add a turbo for more torque.
For ATs there are several to chose from.
MP1A-1 is the LSD unit out of H23 Preludes, best to just get from an importer. There are also MP1A open diff units.
MPJA are from 95-97 Ody vans. Great acceleration and can be economical if you keep it under 75. By 80MPH the engine will be doing 4Krpm. Probably the only AT trans of the H4A era that would work well with the H22VTEC engine. But you would still need to get a custom ECU that has AT compatibility, I think one of the Civic P78 or whatever it is called.

I’m working on a trade right now for a complete EX suspension. Is there any difference on the Subframe besides what you said? Can it still be done with the LX subframe?

I wanted to do the V6/Wagon rear brakes since I will get the EX knuckles in the trade. Can I do the two piston Calipers up front? (95-96 Legend GS), With single piston in the rear? Would that mean I need different Rotors than the Wagon’s?
Still looking for a good brake booster and proportioning valve.

Dam that sounds interesting, ya I’m trying to keep the budget a bit down right now mostly get it back on the road quick. I might go turbo since the compression isn’t terrible and there is a bunch of these f22 in the junkyard for cheap so I can just keep swapping. Emission is not fun already got 1 car that won’t set a CATALYST monitor that no one can figure out.

My question is are the LX and EX suspension different up front? Also will it be do able to just drill out where the sway bars hook up to the rear? I got most of the front suspension out. Noticed my rack and pinion aren’t in the best of shape and might as well replace the drive axles while I’m at it.. so this build is already getting to be more than was expected.


Edit: So I went hunting in the junkyards today, didn’t walk away with anything cause there wasn’t anything to be had. So I emailed Rockauto to find out some info and apparently it doesn’t matter if the car you are removing the calipers from has abs and your model doesn’t it’s the same part (V6/wagon). I found an 86 prelude that had 4 lug calipers but I didn’t know if that would work, Idk can someone elaborate on this?

Because they have decent prices for a whole setup remanufactuted but least it’s new, my junkyards are asking for $30 a piece on just calipers. With brackets and hardware is almost $50 each, then rebuild kits, I just don’t see how it’s economical in my area to do it that route, unless OEM is that much worth it. I looked at some EX subframes and some LX models and I guess it just depends on the year your getting it from cause some looked like a match and others not.