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That is where the button for my folding mirrors is located. It has a different image on it, but location is the same. One thing to remember about the folding mirrors is that the ones I bought came from Japan/Australia/New Zealand where they drive on the wrong side of the road and the driver sits on the opposite side in the car. So the right mirror, which has a different size image that the left one is reversed. It takes a little "getting used to" .
Well.... its another sh*tty day. I decided today that it would be fun to pull the rims from the accord and toss them on the Prelude for a bit to see how they look. So I headed out and grabbed my jack and as I was heading to the car, something is odd, the MFD for the trunk is sitting leaned on the car, so I go to the door and its cracked open.... cmon.... really.... again.... Seriously the car has been out of the garage for like 5 days and I only moved it to the shared parking yesterday. Someone decided to rip out the stereo and steal the woofer box, amp and cap. I'm soo freaking sick of this crap.....
3rd time my radio has been stolen..... The wires are sooo destroyed ill have to basically pull the dash to get to them. My box, amp and cap are all gone.
I should be glad they didn't steal my optima in the trunk, which is worth more than the woofer and amp and they didn't take my chipped ECU which again is much more expensive than the stereo deck. Ill have to make another trip the pick your part for another dash insert.
Anyone want to buy my accord? Ill sell for $2500.
You can barely get the H23vtec swap for that price.
AEM Wideband
5 Lug swap
Aluminum Radiator
Tach, water temp, oil pressure and Vacuum gauges.
AP1 Clutch master with braded lines.
There is plenty more you can look in the thread.
Honestly I'm just frustrated at this point, I'm sick and tired of douche bags messing with my cars.
I am seriously considering pulling the H23 and dropping the F22 back in. Pulling all of my aftermarket parts and putting the car back to stock. This last break in has really pushed me to not wanting to work on this car anymore.
Well.. I think I'm about ready to work on the car again. My frustration has faded. Ill go basic on the stereo once I get it fired back up.
I'm just working on cleaning out the Garage a bit, its been constant projects so its a mess. 1 Accord, 3 Civics and the Prelude have all had parts scattered thru my tiny garage.
It's good to hear you are back in the fight! I understand trying to get things straightened up so you can work productively...I wish I had taken a little extra time before diving in on my project..
Still cleaning the garage... I tend to horde car parts so its hard to get rid of stuff. I threw away my old rear bumper( I think I could have sanded it and saved it) threw away the dented prelude fender and bags and bags and bags of trash. Of course a always strip every bolt and clip from every part before throwing them out. haha
Ill get that battery relocation completed soon and finish wiring up the distributor.
I'm struggling to not start the 5 speed swap and black interior install on the prelude. I really want to do it but I'm not supposed to be keeping that car. haha
I finally ran the wires for the battery location and fuse box relocation. That's big progress for me since I have been dragging my feet. I pulled my positive wire for the AMP(which was stolen) then I realized I didn't have enough wire to run 2 full positive runs from the battery so I added it back in for the starter wire. I plan to replace it when I have cash for another 20 feet of wire. I could use a distribution block but I want to keep things as simple as possible. I will also need to pull my alternator wire.... you know what, I'm not sure the gauge of wire I am using will fit in the plastic cover on the valve cover. Crap that will be a pain. Well Ill need to think about that one for a bit. I really didn't want to pull that wire and replace it anyway, maybe ill just do it the lazy way and extend the existing wire.
I just need to actually mount the battery box and put ends on all of the new wires. I picked up some Copper connectors to use, I has these nice KnuKoncepts terminals that I was using before but that was all 0 gauge. That was a bit overkill. My battery terminals are also KnuKoncepts. The new wire is 2 Gauge. Other than that I just need to finish the wiring on the dist and and charge the battery, well bleed the clutch as well since its totally empty at the moment.
I'm short on cash since I purchased a car for my oldest son. Got a good deal, $300 for a 97/98 civic. Engine was blown, so I picked up an engine for $400. I am making him do the work on the swap so he can get some car experience. Its going to take 10x longer to do the swap but its fine.
Well more progress, Its been super hot here so I have not been working on the car much. Still not much urgency since I'm driving the Prelude and still loving it. I got the battery relocation pretty much complete. 2 Gauge from the trunk to the fuse box. 2 Gauge from Alternator to fuse box. 2 gauge from Battery to ground on transmission. 0 Gauge from Transmission ground to body. I'm not sure what gauge I have going to the starter, maybe 4? I plan to replace it later with a 2 gauge. I know the starter is an important one but I'm still a little short on cash. I have put soo much money into this car. Honestly I think that's the only reason I have not abandoned the project. It definitely has quality everything except the body/frame. haha. I got lazy on the alternator wiring, I just ran the wire over the intake manifold and between the power steering and valve cover wire cover. I left the old wrapped wire in place for now. I will clean it up eventually but honestly every day I'm thinking on throwing the stock motor back in with a stock harness. I just need to get this thing fired back up and on the road. Its very fast so I'm sure once I drive it ill remember.
I just ordered a terminal post cover for the wire on the starter, I don't want that one to arc when starting the car.
I started charging the battery yesterday, hopefully its still good. Optima Yellow Top. I still need to connect everything to the Battery Posts but that should be like a 10 minute job, real life I'm guessing an hour.
I was a little worried about the Distributor wiring. Its been a while so I was not sure how I wired things. I ran the OBD1 harness along with wiring OBD2ish small for the distributor. I looked at things a bit and really I only need to connect one wire, (yellow/green) under the dash and I should be good to go for ignition. The wires are run and labeled so its easy to identify the wires needed. Ill wire up the tach later. I need to basically rip all of my gauge wiring out and start over, its a mess. I cant have a bunch of nice loomed wire and then some electrical taped wires sitting on top of that. haha.
The idea of the new harness was much harder that expected. Honestly... save up and buy the Rywire one. Everything will be easy to troubleshoot in the future and everything is run exactly how I wanted it but it still needs a lot of adjustments. I have a lot of extra wire in the cabin now that needs to be shortened, that means I need to cut the wire and add another solder connection which is another point of failure. I was thinking... I should have started with an OBD2 Civic Harness and did it that way. I just did the engine swap on the Civic for my son and man... Disconnect the ECU, disconnect the 2 nuts on the Harness in the engine bay and the harness pops right out. The civic fuse box is nicer as well. With all the effort I put in it would have been better. I would need the under dash harness as well but honestly at this point... my under dash harness will need to be worked on again to get a radio installed. After having the stereo stolen at least 3 times the wires are thrashed. I'm close to just going Drift style and hooking up a switch panel. lol
What am I forgetting.... My car is super dirty, I never completed the sun roof mod so I have a prelude roof that does not open quite right yet. I have a Acura CL one sitting in the garage that I wanted to swap in. The Seat project is good for the driver but the passenger one still needs to be modified. It has 2 bolts in so its good for now. I think my Passenger door handle is broken, well close to broken, it still works but feels like one side is broken inside. I still need to finish the paint job.
Moral of the story... save up and buy a Rywire Harness.
Just to clarify, I'm not saying that every swap needs a Rywire harness. I'm just saying if your harness is questionable, like mine was and you want to clean up the wiring a bit, sure you can do it yourself but for the time/effort/money/results just pay the money and buy a quality harness.
Well... I tried to start it yesterday but my battery or maybe just my charger/battery pack has taken a dump. I also made an attempt with a civic battery but that was half dead as well. so it cranked just a tiny bit but not near enough to start. I had an extra Walmart battery laying around so I'm charging that now.
I finally got around to trying to start the thing. I pulled the Aluminum radiator a few weeks ago for the prelude so I had to toss the prelude radiator in the accord and filled up the system. I tried to start it with the optima but it was super weak, almost got nothing when trying. So I jumpered the other battery I had to the optima and gave it a try, just barely 1 crank at a time. So... pulled out the jumper pack and hooked that up with the other battery's and I could get a clean few turns. The power lines did feel a little warm so I decided I would plug the jumper pack directly to the ground and the positive on the starter. Hooked up like this the engine would crank without any issue. Well except not starting.
So the engine will crank as normal but wont start. I checked the fuel pressure and... none. Also the check engine light is on but even after jumping it I don't get any codes. Just a solid light. My ECU may be the issue. It was sitting on the car with no top for quite a while. I may need to try another chip and see if its ok. I looked for my stock ECU but I couldn't find it.
Well bad news, I couldn't get it to fire with the Stock ECU either. Now I'm troubleshooting the wiring. I keep getting a solid CEL and no fuel which tells me something is not right with the wiring. I'm trying to sort things out but its difficult to identify where the issue is. I'm working to figure out the minimum wires to get the ECU running but so far no luck. Once I can identify the minimum wires I can easily trace each one, without knowing the minimum it will be a little more difficult. I did do some tracing already but I'm pretty much shooting in the dark at this point.
Nope it doesn't prime, it comes on lit and stays lit. Something is not quite right with the wiring. If I could get it to power up properly I could pull codes and easily sort out any issues.
Check the main relay and that the ECU and fuel pump are getting constant power with the key on engine off. That is a place to start anyway. Tracking down wiring gremlins can be a time consuming endeavour.
Lol. HondaGuy has one post and this was it. ITB's would be a fun project but honestly I'm pretty happy with the engine as it was. For now... I'm pretty sure a single wire will give me a 180+ HP power gain and that's the "upgrade" I'm currently working on.
Ghost I have a another post in the Engine Management section, I'm working on just getting the ECU to power up off my jump Pack. If I can identify the minimum wires it will be easy to troubleshoot. I swapped the main relay and ECU already for testing without any change. I don't think I need to worry about the fuel pump at this time, I think first the CEL light needs to at least turn off, its definitely a wiring issue.
If I don't get this thing running soon I think the prelude will end up eating all of the parts from this car. lol
You replaced parts but did you check for voltage to and from those parts? I realize you are trying to hot wire the ECU but it would be more beneficial to actually test the wiring from the ignition/main relay to the ECU.
Do you have the PDF shop manual and electrical wiring diagrams for your Accord?
ECU pins A25 and B1, YEL/BLK wires are the 12v input to the ECU and pins A23 and A24 are the ECU grounds
Pins A25 and B1 are both fed directly from the main relay. So if you don't have any power going through the main relay the ECU is not going to get any power. Check for power from the main relay, also very important is to check that the ECU has it's proper ground on the engine block (driver side end of upper intake manifold).
05-26-2017, 12:01 PM
Re: 94 Accord H23A Vtec Swap Thread
