Mtwostwo

94 Accord ex auto tran. Ok so it idles fine no problem with AC on full blast. rpms stay a little above the 500 mark. Reverses fine. the light for the D4 doesn't come on at all, all the other ones do. No check engine light coming on. Clean IACV, egr ports. Replaced egr vavle, starter, cap, rotor, and distributor, plugs, wires and air filter. Haven't done the timing. Can't figure out where to go from here to check why it is stalling after driving just a few minutes. Runs fine when driving as long as I don't take my foot off the gas, as soon as I do it dies. Then when it does die, it will not start unless I press the gas pedal. Also checked the fuel filter and it was good. Any help would be great.

sgraham01

Make sure your throttle body and blade are clean. Sounds like it may not be getting enough air at idle which also raises the question of the performance of the iacv. Also check the idle voltage on the MAP sensor. if the ecm is seeing low MAP, then it may be cutting fuel. does this happen when the engine is cold, hot or both?

Mtwostwo

It only happens when I am driving it. It will idle for over 20mins + with AC no problems, and it idles fine in Neutral as well. I have a IACV from a wrecked 94 accord, should I throw it on and see it it solves the problems? Also how would I go about checking the MAP sensor voltage. I am new to really working on cars so somethings i have trouble with figuring out what to do and how to do it. Thanks

sgraham01

since you say it idles fine, I don't think you have a MAP sensor problem now. you would check the voltage by backprobing the connect with small paper clips to read the voltage output of the sensor while the engine is running. the manifold absolute pressure (map) sensor reads the absolute pressure in the intake manifold and if it is outputting a low value for the intake manifold pressure, the ecm will trim fuel flow. Doesn't quite make sense to me why it will idle fine but only do this driving. Must have something to do with the fact that the trans is in gear and adding a slight load due to the torque converter. try changing the iacv with the one you have just to see what happens. I can't think of anything else right now.

Mtwostwo

Ok, changed the IACV, didn't solve the problem, set the timing(it was a just a little off). Is it possible the MAP sensor is just messing up while driving( I can rev the engine and it doesn't change anything)? Going to go and get the stuff to check the fuel pressure, and compression. And once I drive it and it stalls out and dies, it will not start up until it has cooled down for at least 30 mins or more (sputters) but after that it starts up fine. (i can hear the fuel pump kick on everytime, and there are no check engine lights, or codes showing) Thanks for your help.

Mtwostwo

pulled the vacuum hose off EGR vavle, runs like a mother****ing champ! Whats up with that? Should I be checking for vacuum leaks some where now?

sgraham01

if you pulled the vacuum hose off, then you created a vacuum leak by doing so. Apparently, you don't have a vacuum leak with the hose on the EGR valve. with it running, can you reattach the hose to the egr and kill it? maybe your egr vacuum control solenoid is bad. test it. maybe vacuum is being applied to the EGR valve when it's not supposed to be, or not applied when it should be. that sounds promising to me.

Mtwostwo

Yeah as soon as I put the hose back on it kills the car. Its a brand new EGR. Next will be to check the solenoid. The hose though had no vacuum what so ever on it when I took it off so just figured the pressure was not there because it was pulling air in somewhere else. Any suggestions on how to test the solenoid? Thanks again sgraham for your input.

sgraham01

since you get a change in performance when you remove the hose, that means you are getting a change in vacuum at the EGR valve, so if you have a vacuum leak, it must be very minor or pulling the hose off to expose the vacuum system to atmospheric pressure would not have that effect. you can attach a vacuum pump or gauge to the hose you took off and see what the vacuum actually is. Haynes manual states that there should be no vacuum at the EGR valve at idle with the engine at operating temp. they then say that if you apply 8 in-Hg vacuum to the EGR at hot idle, it should kill it.

You must have at least some vacuum at idle if you are killing the car attaching the hose, which means you have a bad control circuit. disconnect the EGR control "box" as they call it and check for battery voltage on the black/yellow wire with the key on engine off. if you have voltage the control solenoid is probably bad. I am lead to believe that battery voltage is applied to the EGR solenoid at idle to remove vacuum from the EGR valve hose.

I would bet your solenoid is bad, and you are getting vac all the time. if you don't have battery voltage at the connector, you have another issue probably with the ECM.


to check the solenoid, disconnect the electrical connector and check the circuit with an ohmeter to make sure there is no break or high resistance.

Mtwostwo

Thanks I will give this a try.... I have another problem now. When driving the car will not go past 1st gear when in D4 or D3, but I can shift into 1 and then 2 while driving and there is no problem. Here is something else. There is this rattle sound (seems like it is under the car but can't tell if it is right under or more the passenger side) But the rattle sound happens when stopped and only if it is in a driving gear (D4 D3 1 OR 2) but nothing when in neutral or reverse, and I can't remember right now if it happens at park. I will post this some where else too, but figure you helped so would keep it here and see if you have any input. Thanks

sgraham01

sounds like you are having a vibration when you have a load on the engine and stopped. that may be a motor mount issue. I'd check the small mount next to the radiator fans first. they are bad about tearing and allowing engine movement. You will probably have to look at it from underneath, and may need to remove the water shield from the car.

Mtwostwo

I pray it is that easy it would make my day. Will go check that now.
Would the engine move at all ? because there is no noticable movment when looking at the engine and it makes that sound.

sgraham01

it would be most noticeable when putting the car in gear and watching the engine with the hood up. if it jerks voilently, the mount is probably bad. if it's just a metallic-sounding rattle, you may have something loose, but that could be anything. I think I heard somewhere that the hard a/c lines rub together sometimes and make a noise, so see if they are chafed. Try bending them away from each other slightly and see if it goes away.

phootbag

To the original concern of stalling, it sounds like the EGR control valve is getting stuck.

bill9730

bill9730

What did you find out was the problem? I have the same problem but I replaced both solenoid valves and still can't find what is keeping constant vacuum on my egr valve. Can anbody help? Thanks