UR2NOZ

So I have done some searching before I posted, but in case I missed something I figured a little experience from others would help.

Recently the car decides to shut down while driving, it appears to be heat related as it doesn't do it on my way to work when it is cooler outside and ( yes it quickly throws a check engine light ) code 15 and all dash lights remain on. The car will re-fire once it cools down and the strange thing is then the car will get all the way home 30 miles without doing it again. Its like once per trip . In seeking out an answer as to why, I have came up with the following, while I waited for the car to do it running in my driveway. Once the cars shuts down it is a clean total kill no stumbling. The car does not start, however the main relay continues to "click" in sequence with the check engine light initially coming on then going off, so I have ruled out the main relay. The fuel pump does respond to the ignition and turns on and runs fine. The ignition tumbler had been checked and moving it in both directions doesn't cause this issue to happen by the way. I have checked for spark directly off the coil and have a no spark condition while the car is trying to start. This leads me to my question....with a 2yr old aftermarket distributor, is the coil my culprit or the ignitor? My understanding is when you change a distributor that doesn't mean the ignitor is getting changed with it correct? I don't have the cash to replace both the coil and the ignitor so was hoping for some thoughts.


Thanks to all who reply, and hope I provided enough info.
Adam

phootbag

Coil or igniter. Coils are usually more intermittent than ignitors. Though, that is not to say the igniter CAN'T be failing. The real way to test would be to check for a pulsing ground signal at the primary coils negative terminal. If present, the ignitor is attempting to operate the coil.

Since the problem is intermittent and seemingly heat related ohming the coil wont be practical unless the symptom is happening at that time.

UR2NOZ

Can you elaborate on how to check the pulsing ground signal. I did not know the coil had a negative terminal to be honest. Just a harness that plugs in one side and the coil wire out the other.

HondaPartsHero

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

quickster

there are 2 ways you can test it and both require a multimeter. should be 2 screws underneath the coil.(you have to take your cap off to get there) test the coil and the positive terminal for resistance. you'll need to look up the specs for what it should be reading. the other test is testing the positive and the neg.

UR2NOZ

So i thought I had the problem fixed but apparently not. Put a new coil in the car and all has been well. Until recently , now the car every once in a while will still shut itself off however the RPM's will shoot up for a second before the car shuts off. Unlike last time when you would have to wait it out for the car to restart, it i will immediately start right back up and you can continue driving basically till you get where you are going without issue???? What in the world is wrong with this car now?

The car has has the main relay soldered about 100,000 miles ago as well as a new ignition switch about the same time if that helps.