EsusFury

I have a 92 Accord 5 speed f22a1. The car was having issues since I purchased it, but it ran. Basically, the car would take a while to start when I bought it, you would have to tap the starter, then let it spin for a couple seconds, and nothing. Try again, nothing, try one more time and it would run, typically. Day by day, the condition would get worse. Have to hit the starter harder and soon hit the starter while turning the key just to get it to move. When I bought the car there wasn't a belt on the power steering pump either, so I took it off, making sure that any ground/ electrical lead was properly rerouted/fixed. So, one day when I tried starting the car, I would turn the key to run (II), there was a click, then start (III) another click, but nothing happened. I noticed that when I turned the key to run, the CEL would not light up as soon as I put the key in (II), but after about 10 seconds of the key being in said position, the CEL would pop up. Jumped the diagnostic port and two codes, 8 (TDC Sensor) and 20 (ELD). Code 20 was resolved within about five minutes as the black box was not connected, when I plugged it back in only one CEL, code 8. So, I pulled the dizzy and checked to see if anything was bad in it, and it was filled with oil. So I went and bought a new dizzy and starter. Put them both on and now it is actually worse, the fuel pump does not prime anymore when I turn the key to (II). All grounds have been triple checked, cleaned with a wire brush, and snugged down to insure complete contact. I have checked all fuses from other posts, all seem to be in working order. I checked the starter to see if it would turn by jumping the s terminal to (+) on the battery, and sure enough it works. So, now I am at a loss for what to do/check as I have exhausted all of my previous three years of experience with a 95 civic. Any ideas?

P.S. the dizzy is a new carquest dizzy; also the previous owner put in an aftermarket radio, that was not wired properly, but I thought I should put that in here just in case. When I purchased the car from him it also had issues with acceleration, when lightly accelerating, the car was fine, but under heavy acceleration, the car would just bog down and sometimes stall, just depends. It ran fine otherwise, idle was perfect, and if you drove like a decent human being, then the car ran fine.

EsusFury

Anybody? I just need some other suggestions as it is frustrating me to death lol

holmesnmanny

Sounds like the starter contacts are worn, if hitting it makes it work. You can replace just the starter contacts themselves if you want.

If the fuel pump isn't priming this normally means the main relay is bad, assuming when you turn it to the on position that the dash lights come on.

Is it still throwing the code 8 with the new distributor ?

Did you set the base ignition timing with a timing gun after jumpering the blue service connector or did you make marks with a marker before you removed the old one so you can set it back to the original position ?

EsusFury

The car is still throwing code 8 after the new dizzy. I took the battery off for a little while to reset any codes and reset the sensors to default values. Even then the car would just click once and do nothing.
The starter will turn when jumping the s terminal, would this still mean the connections are bad? I went through the wire, not straight to the terminal just to kinda eliminate that as a possibility. As far as the timing goes, yes I marked it, but even then I cannot check how precise it is because the car will not run at all. I will check the continuity through the main relay, but everything looked perfect, it honestly looked like a brand new relay.
When I turn the key to the on position, all the dash lights come, and sometimes the battery light will flash.
Btw sometimes the car will act like it is supposed to, turn the key, the dash lights come on and the CEL goes off after 2 seconds, but then right after that it will just not do anything.
Thanks for the reply

EsusFury

Also, maybe this will help, when I was testing the voltage at the s post one day, it was showing 5 volts at run (II), turn the key (III) and nothing. I don't know if that will help with anything but I thought it was weird.

holmesnmanny

if you're throwing a code after replacing the distributor then you need to carefully look over the connectors, one could be damaged internally or you got an open in a wire, check from the connectors back to the corresponding pins at the ecu connectors for continuity to be sure there are no breaks

.:FFS TechNet : OBD1 ECU Pin out Schematics :.

it's possible the ecu might be bad, you can pop it open and look for burned spots, even if none burned it could still be bad but if there are burned spots it's more likely it's bad