jacreech777

Greetings from a new forum member!

I have two concurrent problems for which I am trying to discover the logical link - involving (a) periodic difficulty in starting and (b) engine not revving past about 3500 rpm. These always occur together. I am hoping someone on the forum has encountered this or has some insight to help me.

Here are the scenarios which occur:

1) About 50% of the time my engine starts fine and runs great. I rebuilt the engine about 5 years ago and have been diligent to keep everything maintained.

2) Sometimes the car is very hard to start. The starter engages but the engine does not start until about the 5th try. When it does start, my check engine light comes on, and subsequently I cannot exceed about 3500 rpm no matter the gear (manual tranny). I cannot get a trouble code.

3) When #2 above occurs, if after the car does start I shut off the ignition, then restart, it starts fine, I get no engine light, and all is fine.

I repaired my main relay a few years ago, but it seems to me if that were the problem, I wouldn't have an rpm issue. Either current would flow thru the relay and energize my injectors and fuel pump, or it would not. With the rpm issue, it would seem most likely to be an electrical/electronic problem, but maybe I'm off base.

I replaced my distributor about a year ago. While it is not a Honda OEM part, I previously had an aftermarket distributor on my car for probably 10 years with no problems.

The issues don't seem to be related to temperature. My temp sensors are only a few years old, and the issues occur in both cold and warm weather.

Maybe a problem in my ECU? A bad resistor or capacitor?

Any ideas?

Many thanks!

Jim

holmesnmanny

If you have a check engine light then you should be pulling the code.

jacreech777

I agree that I should be able to pull the code. Code zero is for a faulty ECU, but I'm not sure how a zero code displays. Nothing at all? Steady on?

Tonight I'll pull my ECU fuse to clear, then see if I can pull the code the next time the check engine light comes on. Very strange...

Thanks for responding.

holmesnmanny

I've never heard of anyone legitimately having a code 0. If the check engine light stays on then you have no codes.

However it may be getting erased when you turn the xar off. Next time the check engine light comes on, without turning the car off, jumper the service connector and pull the code.

jacreech777

Thanks again for the reply! Just before I read your post, I managed to pull two codes: 4 & 8. Crank position sensor and top dead center sensor, both of which are in the distributor on my 91 Accord EX.

Well, good and bad news. The bad is that OEM distributors are expensive. My present distributor is not much more than a year old. I guess this proves the common sentiment that Hondas do not like after market distributors.

The good news is that both codes involve the same part, and distributors are easy to replace, labor wise.

Do you agree that I should spring for the genuine Honda one and not chance another after market type?

Also, should I run the Honda manual tests to make sure those codes are correct?

EddyRoy

I'm so glad you started this discussion and I read attentively every reply of yours... I'm also an 1991 Honda Accord owner and the last question about Honda manual test interests me as well. So how one can make sure that the codes are correct?

jacreech777

My Honda manual always gives tests, sometimes easy sometimes more difficult. Most involve probing wires to take various voltage, resistance, and continuity readings to see if the part is within spec. I've ordered a probe that pierces wire insulation safely and connects to my meter, so I'll probably do the tests.

I just remembered that I had a groundhog climb into my engine bay a few years ago and chew thru some wiring, including the wiring to my distributor. I repaired it, but I may have a bad connection there. I'll test that also. (I actually saw the groundhog when opening my hood - just sitting there grinning at me.

Just found out last night that the aftermarket distributor that is suspect has full warranty coverage, so I will return it to get another. Maybe not the best unit made, but no money spent.