bagpiper22

Ok, some background...2001 Accord 2.3 4-cyl automatic. 197k miles. Was idling rough, has random misfire CELs and EGR passage blocked CEL P0401. Started right up though, and ran fine if RPMs were up. Just sounded like it wanted to stall at red lights. Also, car has been using oil. About a quart every 300-500 miles. Some leakage by the valve cover where the cam meets the distributor, but I don't know if a quart is slipping by there.

Work so far: New EGR valve. New NGK iridium plugs (properly gapped). New spark wires. New distributor cap and rotor. Was running better after that, but still throwing codes. Opened throttle body and cleared totally clogged EGR passage. Was careful to vacuum up crud that came out of port. Removed EGR and cleared passage all the way. Full tank, good battery (battery terminals were heavily corroded, so I pulled both wires to clean them...maybe reset ECU?)

Started car after cleaning throttle body. Took it for a spin around the block. Idle was better but not perfect. Car was sputtering at low speeds...weak acceleration. As I turned a corner, it stalled. Rolled to curb, and it won't start now. It sounds like it wants to...almost catches, but nothing.

I first thought fuel flow. Main Relay? Fuel pump is lifetime built into tank. I "think" I hear it when I turn the key, but hard to tell with the key beeping. I know it's not ideal, but I loosened the banjo nut on the fuel rail a little and turned key til lights were on. Fuel sprayed out strong. I know...stupid, but I needed to know if fuel was flowing. Does that rule out main relay?

Tried some starter fluid into throttle body. Nothing. I figure that means no spark, but what would cause a running car with spark to sputter and lose it? I've checked all grounds I can see, and they are tight.

I read somewhere that the ECU needs to relearn the engine after a full power loss (removing battery). I only let it idle for a few moments before taking for a test drive.

I need to get the car running and clear the CELs to pass emissions. Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Scott

bagpiper22

Confirmed key immobilizer is not the issue. Green key light comes on when turned to on position, and blinks 5 times when turning from on to off.

Things I plan to check today:

Confirm spark on each wire
Check for clogged exhaust/catalytic converter...I read to remove O2 sensor as a test to allow exhaust flow?
Check fuses

What else?

Thanks...

tim73

Only throwing 0401 code? Also, whens last time timing belt replaced?

bagpiper22

Other CEL codes are all relating to misfires: P1399, P0300, P0303, P0304.

We're looking at the ignition module in the distributor as well...

Timing belt is not new, but was replaced at one point. will check that too...would that slip while driving?

Thanks!

bagpiper22

a few updates...worked on the car yesterday. bought a few things I probably didn't need (ignition module, coil). still hard to start, but once in a while, the car started and idled fine. But try to give it gas, and it bogs.

spark is good
fuel is good
Compression is not.

Cyl 1 - 180
Cyl 2 - 150
Cyl 3 - 60
Cyl 4 - 70

Will pull the valve cover to see what's up. I'm thinking sticking valve, since the problem is intermittent. Meanwhile, CEL light is flashing, so I need to fix this before I fry my cat. Any other ideas?

thanks!

bagpiper22

Ok, tested compressions again, with a little oil in the cylinders that were low. # 3 jumped from 60 to 80, and #4 jumped form 70 to 100. So it looks like the rings are bad. I don't figure it's worth putting new rings in a 197k engine, so we'll just do a swap. The rest of the car is still in good shape. We can get a replacement JDM engine for $299, so not too bad. Guess I know what my son and I will be doing the tomorrow!

Thanks!

holmesnmanny

Cars don't just lose compression randomly. Have you checked mechanical timing ?

bagpiper22

I will check that again...just to be sure. I would certainly like to avoid an engine swap if possible. Could oil down the cylinder result in higher compression if the mechanical timing is off?

Thanks...

bagpiper22

checked mechanical timing...everything lines up, unfortunately. Would have liked it if that was the issue...

holmesnmanny

If the timing is correct, either you ran low on oil to the point that you caused engine damage(possible due to a serious leak somewhere) or your car overheated. Those are really the only two possible culprits.