austin.w.2000

Well I have a 1998 Accord with a J30a1 that has had some part of the immobilizer fail again. I am at the point of finding someone to remove the immobilizer from the ecu or find a JDM equivalent for the fact of no immobilizer. Any recommendations on how to go about this because I am tired of the drama with the immobilizer on this car. Sorry if this has been discussed before just need fixed asap.

MAD_MIKE

Being this is your first post and we have not idea what past problems you have had, would you care to elaborate on what has happened in the past and what resolutions you have done to fix the past problems?

austin.w.2000

Recently replaced battery, starter and fuel pump. Battery and starter were both bad. Fuel pump due to unknown if changed by previous owner. But now I have the green flashing key when key is in II stating the keys are not recognized. Previous owner stated this happened before and had to send it to the dealership to get repaired.

MAD_MIKE

Both keys are not recognized?
Verify that the battery cable are clean and tight.
A corroded cable would cause a voltage drop which may cause the immobilizer to activate.

Check that the memory fuse, #13 on the passenger side fuse box has continuity. 7.5A.
B19 a pink wire going into the PCM is for the immobilizer, verify it is connected properly.

Quick search found this...
https://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-.../#post36220355

Check your PM.

austin.w.2000

Figuring it is the ecu or the immobilizer receiver is going bad. What are my ecu options for replacement that will disable the immobilizer? already contacted HAMotorsports and Hondata regarding disabling and they don't touch the j30 ecu. Called 4 dealers in my area and the receiver is on back order with no estimated date

poorman212

Get the e-brake override code from the dealer and call it a day........

Yes, I have seen where the PCM will forget the key(s). Enter the code and all of the sudden things are fine

So call the dealer get the code, enter it and enjoy the ride

austin.w.2000

I am looking for a repair or permanent bypass not a temp fix. This is my sons car. I have also replaced the main relay now. It will recognize the key if I disconnect the battery and let it sit for a few and reconnect it. but after it sits a few days it stops recognizing the key. tried calling the dealers in my area in regards to replacing the immobilizer receiver and get the answer of the parts are on backorder without a known date of availability. I am truly debating a JDM ecu but can not get any information regarding which JDM ecu I would need. I have found one from a Honda Inspire or a Odyssey but no actual Accords with a V6.

tech8

You may first want to check that there isn't excessive parasitic draw on the battery. A weak battery may have enough juice to turn the starter motor (it will turn with 9 or 10 volts), but, not enough to run the other electrical systems, particularly the PCM. With a weak battery the Immobilizer System and PCM can't communicate.


Here's some info. about the Immobilizer System: With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the PCM or ECM receive an “ignition on” signal through fuse 46 and the PGM-FI main relay. The PCM or ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends a coded signal back to the PCM or ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the PCM or ECM will enable the car’s fuel supply system by grounding the PGM-FI main relay via the Grn/Yel wire.

Options for checking/testing:

1. At the Immobilizer Receiver Unit (located on the steering column) check that the 5-P harness connector is firmly seated. You can test wires at the 5-P harness connector with multimeter. Tests can also be done at PCM wiring harness connectors.

Testing wiring at the Immobilizer Receiver Unit (located on steering column).

Backprobing may be more effective in the following tests. Backprobing is either using a backprobe set or using a thin needle or something and making contact with the metal terminal of the connector without piercing the wire in the back of the still connected connector. Care must be taken to ensure that the wiring does not get damaged. You can use something like a T pin, available at Walmart, etc., and backprobe.

(Test for ground source from Ground G101 through wire) - At the 5-pin connector to the receiver unit, test for continuity to body ground at terminal no. 4 (where the Brn/Blk wire is).
To test for continuity, set to either the "ohms" or the setting it will beep when you hold the two leads together.

- If your meter beeps, it means you have continuity.
- If it is on ohms scale, you will have continuity when it reads close to 0 ohms.
- If it doesn't beep , shows OL (open line) or a 1 (infinity ohms); it means you don't have continuity.

Don’t turn on ignition for this continuity test. You can either unplug the 5-pin connector and test the Brn/Blk wire or backprobe. There should be continuity to ground.

(Tests for signals between immobilizer receiver unit and ECM/PCM):
A. At the 5-pin connector to the receiver unit, backprobe terminal no. 1 (where the Yel/Blk wire is). Set the multimeter for voltage test.

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Yel/Blk wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground (for example, a metal bracket on the car, etc.) to test.

With the ignition in ON or START, is there power at the Yel/Blk wire?

B. If there is power at the Yel/Blk wire, then backprobe terminal no. 3 (where the blue wire is).

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Blu wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground to test.

With the ignition in ON or START, is there power at the Blue wire?

C. If there is power at the Blue wire, then backprobe terminal no. 2 (where the red wire is).

I am not sure whether the encoded signal from the receiver unit’s red wire will be power (+) or ground (-) when trying to start the car.

With a voltmeter, touch the voltmeter's red lead to the red wire and the voltmeter's black lead to body ground to test.

Either way, with the ignition in ON or START, is there a reading at the Red wire using the voltmeter?



2. Get the Immobilizer Brake Code. The Immobilizer brake code is a 5 digit numeric code that is enter by using sequences of moves with the ignition switch and parking brake. The brake code is obtained from the dealer. If it starts, you can try reprogramming, testing wires, substituting PCM, etc.

3. If you can get access to a known good PCM and the corresponding key, you can substitute that to see if it will work.